stony

The new new member of the family!!! Should I?

My new ride!!! Got lots oh plans just cant act on anything till i settle in the new job!!! but im thinking, black air damn, black over fenders, satin rota rbrs, 17X 9 and 17x 9.5, exhaust, and a few other things. ;>

First thing to do is swap strut cart and springs cause the thing feels like a boat!!!. Then its going to be a daily driver for a while then rota rbs, overfenders, exhaust. looks like the A/C is intact so i will try and get that up and running since it gets kinda hot here in the summer.

Thanks to TwoZs, ( he will need to change his name to oneZ now ) its in really good shape. I'd say the best unrestored shape 280z i have ever come across. Pics to follow.

After spending like a hour going thru the post your wheels thread and only finding a couple pics of the rotas would it be too much to ask for everyone to post the pics of the wheels they bought here. I'm a huge watanabe fan but not a fan of the cost!!! these are about as close as you can get ;>

Geez i'm having a bad week. I learned today that the oil temp gauge wont work when its hooked up to the pressure sender. Oh and another thing the pressure sender needs to be hooked up to the pressure gauge for it to work!!! That's what happens when you get in a hurry and have little sleep ;>

The ignitor is actually going bad. When it gets hot it drops a cylinder. Putting it back there keeps it cool and i haven't had a problem with it since. one of these days need to get another one. Running splitfire coils. On a side note anyone running the tach pickup for rpm signal in this link? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8918/ looks pretty straight forward and simple. Also see second link. its a GPS sender for autometers electronic speedo!!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-5289/

OBTW i found the damn oil pressure sender.; it was tucked up underneath the intake in the side of the block :blink: :blink: :blink:

SPent all day cleaning up wiring and rerouting stuff that was temp installed. Looking better still needs some work though. just so many wires. Sent the converter off to be restalled today. Hope to get it really close this time ;> Might need to use Nitrous anymore.

The adapter that comes off the block is not marked. But i did find out that the center fitting is oil out and the offset one is oil in.

Nevermind. just installed autometer stuff. drilled and tapping was the easiest.

Can someone please explain the pic below in stupidese? I had this kit installed on the Z several years ago and when i took it out i completely disassembled it not marking where the hoses went. The piece that screws on to the block is not marked and i cant remember which one is in or out. This is not my kit just a pics i found on the net of the kit i have. Also if someone has a better idea on how to get oil press and temp i'm all ears. the stock oil cooler is gone and my filter screws directly onto the block. Was going to try and shoe horn this kit into the orange Z just so i have a place for put the senders. Thanks in advance.

Cool But i would swap it out as soon as you get a chance for one specifically for EFI. i burnt up a REALLYYYY expensive pump trying to push fuel thru the 2 i had.

I was browsing your build when i came across this pic. i was going to ask but since you showed the part number i looked it up. according to summit this is a carb filter. i had 2 of them on my setup and had alot of problems with fuel pressure dropping above 6000 rpm. at the time i didn't realize it was the filter but after my puzzled tuner figured it out he wasn't very happy. had any problems with it?

Ok got the gauges installed, wide band and boost controller working. Still need to install the oil pressure and temp sensors. Need a drill and tap, and some motivation. Also need to install the trans temp sensor and all gauges will be done. Trans needs to come out so i can fix a pan leak and clean it up. Then i need to finish up the nitrous kit wiring and clean up the rest of the wiring. The list is getting smaller!!!! Sounds sucks on this one so beware !!!!

unsubscribed!!!

I have A GReddy oil cooler block that has bungs tapped for metric senders available all over the place in japan. i have auto-meter stuff and instead of spending $$$ to buy new gauges I'm going to drill out the current holes to 7/16s and tap it for 1/4-18 NPT. Is there an easier way?

More pics please!!!

Joel, Me personally i like one color and everything dechromed, next i would go with the hood, hatch, bumpers front air dam and overfenders a different color. anything more starts to look like it needs to be painted. just my personal preference. you car look badass either way.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ AGREED^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

GOT IT@!!!!! i'm such a dumbass. The rear end has been together for a while with the wheels on. When i looked under the car i had very easy access to the bleeders on both calipers so i never took the wheels off. I was under the rearend tonight doing final look thru and clamping some stuff up securely when i noticed there are 4 bleeders on the wilwood calipers!!!! 2 upper and 2 lower. on thew uppers there is one on the inbd side i could see with the wheel on and one on the outbd side i couldn't see!!! bled both side and brakes work like a champ now!!! glad i didn't buy a MC ;>

part number?

Dang thought i had it ;> So in general for my application, the stock master should work to slow down during drag racing. Everything i have read is talking road racing. I really don't want to upgrade if i don't need. to. The rear willwood calipers have dual bleeders. I'm assuming you only have to bleed from the top and the only reason there are 2 is because they are interchangeable. or do i need to bleed from the bottom also?