stony

Piston sits right at deck level. Again though, I have measured that yet.

And when I say no power..... at 4000 rpm I was at around 150 hp

I was running a 1.2 mm hg before and had no power or torque below 5500rpm. Stock hg thickness is .9 something. Changed to 1.1 and shaved 2mm. This should put me close to stock clearances..... I think. Haven't measured anything yet. Once everything is cleaned and ready to install I will measure and verify clearances. If it's too tight I will do a thicker hg. I want to be in the 10 to 1 range for compression..

Not a typo. Going hi compression on E85. If i didn't have bad luck i'd have no luck. After 2 months I got tired of waiting for my head to be finished. So today i picked it up from the machinist. In that time they cut valve seats. I got a dirty head back with 7 bad exh and 1 bad intake valve. oh well..... All the good valves are gaped and ready for install. just waiting on some more valves to show up. found a buddy who had some extras. Almost pulled the trigger on bigger valves and springs for hi RPm>

to answer your question I drcked the head 2 millimeters, valve job and valve guide seals. That along with cylinder hone, and specific ring gap is the setup needed for success. .... we will see soon enough..

I dropped it off to have the valves done. After hand lapping I discovered that the valve gaps were way too tight. I don't know if I overlapped or if they were like that before. My suspicion is is they were very tight before which may have been causing my backfiring issues on the nitrous. At any rate about 3 or 4 days after I dropped the head off one of their main machinist quit and the other only machinist that was qualified to work on my head broke his arm. Then once he was back as he was pulling the guide seals out one of the valve guides came out with it. Not 100 percent sure of the accuracy of that. I have a small part of me that feels maybe this was just an excuse for the time it has taken. That head literally only has maybe a 50 miles worth of quarter mile passes on it. The head was built by Jun in Japan. Pretty sure they know what they're doing. It was supposed to be done Wednesday but I received no call planning on calling today for an update on why its not done.

I stuck with gapless seconds. I have done everything that total seal recommends. Bore finish, guids and guide seals, and gapped rings everything to their specs. I am still waiting on the head to be finished. It sucks getting any type of machine work done on this motor where I am nobody is really familiar with it.

So THEY say the reason people have issues is, 1. improper bore finish, 2. bad valve guide seals, all that is new on mine and the bore finish is correct. im gonna think about it a little longer. may just order a conventional second. BUT i really do not want to pull everything apart again.

Well I wasn't till I got all this negative feedback. For sure gonna call total seal and find out what the deal is. I'm also hearing that there are articles where total seal dosnt recommend gapless seceond. ????

I don't think the rb will bolt to the l.tranny. if it does it will destroy it. Z32 or r33 gtst 5 speed. Or by adapter for one of the beefier us trannys.

I don't think the rb will bolt to the l.tranny. if it does it will destroy it. Z32 or r33 gtst 5 speed. Or by adapter for one of the beefier us trannys.

That's cool i guess i will see. With the right bore finish, ring gaps ect ect shouldn't have a problem. We will see. Can't see how a company like this would stay in business if their product didn't work. not saying you guys did anything wrong.... there is a ton of neg feedback out there but there is also a ton of positive feedback. if it doesn't work oh well. guess i will tear it down and not use gapless again.

I will get clarification from them on Monday. I had it honed to what the recommended, Gapped all the rings as the directions stated. bore X .008. They have said they don't recommend a break in period. i have always put the motor together and got it running then on the dyno tearing it up. We will see what happens this time.

I have and as many people that I have heard say they had problems I saw just as many that say the love them. We will see. As I mentioned early totalseal.com recommended that way because of the am out of boost I was going to run.

Going to verify oil clearances tomorrow then all I'm waiting for is HG and head to get back from machinist.

The it was explained to me the gapless second does better in high boost situatiins. And since I will be doing 30+psi with a 150 shot.... they said they will work well. Using a 1.1 mm thick 88mm bore cometic. What Preble ms did you see with yours?

Took 1 step forward 2 steps back. Gapped everything at OEM then read the instructions ;> needed to be gapped at .028. Also figured out the gapless rings were installed upside down. Pulled them apart gapped everything and installed the gap-less second correctly this time. Should have short block done tomorrow. now just waiting on the head gasket. apparently 87.5 bore on the gasket is a custom. Didn't figure that out till a week after i ordered the HG. Canx the order now waiting on an 88MM

yes HKS 87mm and BC H beams.

More progress. Also got the first piece of the puzzle for a dry sump system. ;> 20 bux

Mine has probably been doing it since the black car. I have had over 100 passes since last rebuild :-> On a side note one more piece of the puzzle.

I didn't see this till after the fact... I have video somewhere. On launch it would drop to 20 psi for about 1.5 seconds. But hold strong the rest of the way down the track.

Yes it did come with the pick up no gasket or hardware. Did not come with a dipstick I'm just using the one I had from before.

Not sure yet but I'm guessing 6 to 7 quarts