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Everything posted by stony

  1. It was a long time ago so maybe I'm not remebering correctly.... but what I'm saying is with a stock rb26, r200 and stock rearend... I would drop clutch around 4500 and get lots of wheel spin. 275x50x15 dr. So even a lunch close to that your in the low 10s.
  2. Yea.... I'm hoping that upping the compression a little bit will help getting some more power down low.
  3. Well its back in the hole!!!!.
  4. Wow our builds are almost identicle. I left my battery in stock location. Carpeted interior and stock trim pieces cut to tubs looks sweet.
  5. Thanks hope it performs!!!!
  6. I was at 392 rwhp and with 1.6 60 foots ran 11.1 at 127. If you can get 60 foots around there..... low 10s for sure.
  7. Wait, what prompted the backhalve? 2 pages ago you had a kickass, rearend, exhaust and interior???.... mine weighs 2600 with me in it. about 750 to the wheels.... https://youtu.be/nyVILCgmRAw If you 870 to the wheels..... hope your doing a 7;50 cage
  8. It's coming along. I can definetly tell compression is up.
  9. I agree with the compression thing if I was running a manual. Gotta remember I'm on a powerglide with a 6000 stall. I'm trying to generate some more power off boost to help with the stall and spooling turbo. Right now having to hit it with 150 shot to get it on the stall. Without it, the damn thing won't go above 4000rpm. About 1500 rpm short of where it needs to be to produce boost. Cant find the dyno video but i was only making just a tad over 100hp at 4300. the converter needs more then that.
  10. Still waiting on my dial indicator but eyeballing the the piston to deck... its just below being flush with top of the block. also the intake squish pad is removed on my head. Here is a pic i took the first time I rebuilt it. Here is a pic of the combustion chamber. This is an old pic before taking 2mm off
  11. Piston sits right at deck level. Again though, I have measured that yet.
  12. And when I say no power..... at 4000 rpm I was at around 150 hp
  13. I was running a 1.2 mm hg before and had no power or torque below 5500rpm. Stock hg thickness is .9 something. Changed to 1.1 and shaved 2mm. This should put me close to stock clearances..... I think. Haven't measured anything yet. Once everything is cleaned and ready to install I will measure and verify clearances. If it's too tight I will do a thicker hg. I want to be in the 10 to 1 range for compression..
  14. Not a typo. Going hi compression on E85. If i didn't have bad luck i'd have no luck. After 2 months I got tired of waiting for my head to be finished. So today i picked it up from the machinist. In that time they cut valve seats. I got a dirty head back with 7 bad exh and 1 bad intake valve. oh well..... All the good valves are gaped and ready for install. just waiting on some more valves to show up. found a buddy who had some extras. Almost pulled the trigger on bigger valves and springs for hi RPm>
  15. to answer your question I drcked the head 2 millimeters, valve job and valve guide seals. That along with cylinder hone, and specific ring gap is the setup needed for success. .... we will see soon enough..
  16. I dropped it off to have the valves done. After hand lapping I discovered that the valve gaps were way too tight. I don't know if I overlapped or if they were like that before. My suspicion is is they were very tight before which may have been causing my backfiring issues on the nitrous. At any rate about 3 or 4 days after I dropped the head off one of their main machinist quit and the other only machinist that was qualified to work on my head broke his arm. Then once he was back as he was pulling the guide seals out one of the valve guides came out with it. Not 100 percent sure of the accuracy of that. I have a small part of me that feels maybe this was just an excuse for the time it has taken. That head literally only has maybe a 50 miles worth of quarter mile passes on it. The head was built by Jun in Japan. Pretty sure they know what they're doing. It was supposed to be done Wednesday but I received no call planning on calling today for an update on why its not done.
  17. I stuck with gapless seconds. I have done everything that total seal recommends. Bore finish, guids and guide seals, and gapped rings everything to their specs. I am still waiting on the head to be finished. It sucks getting any type of machine work done on this motor where I am nobody is really familiar with it.
  18. So THEY say the reason people have issues is, 1. improper bore finish, 2. bad valve guide seals, all that is new on mine and the bore finish is correct. im gonna think about it a little longer. may just order a conventional second. BUT i really do not want to pull everything apart again.
  19. Well I wasn't till I got all this negative feedback. For sure gonna call total seal and find out what the deal is. I'm also hearing that there are articles where total seal dosnt recommend gapless seceond. ????
  20. I don't think the rb will bolt to the l.tranny. if it does it will destroy it. Z32 or r33 gtst 5 speed. Or by adapter for one of the beefier us trannys.
  21. I don't think the rb will bolt to the l.tranny. if it does it will destroy it. Z32 or r33 gtst 5 speed. Or by adapter for one of the beefier us trannys.
  22. That's cool i guess i will see. With the right bore finish, ring gaps ect ect shouldn't have a problem. We will see. Can't see how a company like this would stay in business if their product didn't work. not saying you guys did anything wrong.... there is a ton of neg feedback out there but there is also a ton of positive feedback. if it doesn't work oh well. guess i will tear it down and not use gapless again.
  23. I will get clarification from them on Monday. I had it honed to what the recommended, Gapped all the rings as the directions stated. bore X .008. They have said they don't recommend a break in period. i have always put the motor together and got it running then on the dyno tearing it up. We will see what happens this time.
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