seth

I did the same

I second that

This is the guy that I got my spacers from... http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZwheeladapters Well designed they have tapered lugs to ensure that the spacer is centered on the hub. And you just buy them and tell him how wide you want to go. I have a .75 inch in the rear and 1 inch in the front but i know that he will go to 4 inch wide.

I just can't find the picture... I am starting to think that it was one of the files that I lost on when my HDD crashed... Sorry. I would assume that that spring is there to do something. If you wanted to remove the handle completely I would just add a spring somewhere else to keep the tension on that linkage. If someone posts a pic of the inside of the door i can draw on it to show you where I mounted everything and how I extended the leaver. If you need that is.

They sure look like CCW's to me... Because that's what mine is rolling on (Diff. offset though)

Here is mine... These are the MSA skirts (SHO-Z is right they suck all twisted and such) and ZG flares all molded in. Now if you saw it all before paint you would see the ton of cutting to both flare and skirt. They don't fit easily... http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=10062&cat=500

I on my 260 I pulled the rod that went up to the outside handles completely. But I still use my inside handles. I am assuming that the spring there is the one you are talking about. If so I am still using it, for me it is more convenient to use the inside handle. To explain further (as I am still not sure where these dammed pictures are) the cable that is used to pull the latch is parallel with the lower rod (for the inside handle)

I can't find my pictures at the moment... but what I did was mount the actuators at the bottom middle of the door (Bolted right below the lowest hole in the inner door skin) The 1st time I hooked it all up i did it directly to the pivot point the inner door handle is hooked up to (where the movment is changed from front/back to Up/down). This didn't really work because of the power it took to open the door in the closed position wasn't enough to relyably open the door all the way. So I welded some threaded rod to the end of the pivot and hooked the actuator to that (Really only adding an inch to the bottom of the pivot)... Man I hope this makes some sense...I will go looking for my pictures Edited for clarity

For those too lazy to find the album http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=702

Did it come on now the the pump is replaced. I had a similar suspect, and put in a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay to "prove" that I have pressure right to the rail.

exactly what i was thinking

This post in the Megasquirt forum will help... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112931 But these numbers are much higher then mine are, mostly due to my larger injectors. I would also recommend both of these as well http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99689

I got a bumper, and would agree that it was resonable. We did add some fiberglass in a few thin spots but fitment was good. As far as the flares I would go to Classic Datsun Motorsport (http://www.classicdatsun.com/) That is where my flares came from and he gave me great service.

Ya I had trouble with the HEI too... I eventually gave up and went to a MSD. And i am much happier.

I was thinking of doing something like that but it ended up looking better then i thought it would.... Great job

My car has it

Me too... and in my intercooler piping... when the bend got too tight i just cut wedges out of straight pipe and welded it togeather...

Just got an email back from James, here is what he said. Hoping that this will go somewhere soon...