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HybridZ

Silent

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Everything posted by Silent

  1. 3.1 stroker n42 block n47 head {z head, not max} STOCK crane 450 cam thing n36 intake runners, STOCK su carbs, sm needles msa header 2.5 header back exhaust to a fart cannon. msd ign, mallory coil, stock late 260/280 dizzy unsure of compression, this got me 192 rwhp on a 100/91 octane mix, and 38 degrees of total advance. oh, stock nissan air horns. over the winter, im doing a tear down to see what c/r i have, unsure of piston type in the motor, severe head work, and more c/r im going for at least a 75 rwhp gain. then bottle ontop of that
  2. drop your tank, there is crap in it, cloggin the pump, the fpr, and the lines in general. flush it out, POR seal it, and run new lines, the pump will be fine
  3. that is the question. right now, im in a severe porting mood. im about to tackle the job of smoothing the ports on the head to match the manifolds i just did over the weekend. to keep the exhaust liners, or to get rid of them you be the judge edit: it's a n47 head.
  4. just don;t blow it up again man. btw, i met you at the branson z fest
  5. haltech, i have personal experince with a microtech, and the blow *** in my opinion.
  6. id use the 24 housing due to the fact it cleans up that area of the engine bay a bit. you eally don't need a water pipe/intake heater. just let it warm up a lil bit longer, it might take a while to get started in the dead cold of winter. but it will start. mine fires when it's 20 below, and i don't have a water pipe in the intake runners. you can set the base timing at 6 degrees tdc, and get a total of around 36-38 degrees total advance {this is what i run in my 3.1} on pump gas at least. i havent run vacuum advance on my motor since day one. ddn't feel a need for it. you can run a mech pump if you don't care to run a regulator, but later 240's had a mech pump and a elec pump. it's easier for a pump to push then to pull. hence why i run a holley red and a holley regulator set to 3.5 psi. but again, this is me. im going to stupid hp this winter, so the red will support what i need. again, this is all up to you, im just posting my set up and how i would do it, just my opinion.
  7. get rid of all the vacuum lines, get a holley red fuel pump, put it in the stock location, a 240z thermo housing will work fine. the canister can go, only two vacuum lines that i use are for the brakes, and the heater controls. pics of my motor with a 3.1 and su's, in my 76 280z http://www.geocities.com/a3point1280z/engine my engine runs 200 times better with carbs, then with the crappy efi. AND better gas mileage
  8. i figured it did pretty good for SU's and a stock head. im not worried about the head that is on the car now, nor the cam, i plan on going with a totally different upper half when it's all said and done
  9. 210 rwtq hell the thing had 154 tq at 1300 rpms.
  10. no alter ego's here home slice
  11. holy hell batman, that was what i was pretty much looking for. someone who knows something about nissan heads. what it would take to get it to the zone im looking for. as it sits, im running a 3.1 stroker, with a fully balanced bottom. put down a measly 192 rwhp in the summers heat. {measly coompared to my older 400+ awhp dsm's} i have three heads at my disposal. early e88, late e88, and a N42. of these three heads, which would yield me the best all out nasty race prepped. 45mm+ triple carbed race engine. and what would the range of price be?. if say, i sent "braap} the head to do. because no one here in town has a clue about them anymore. i'll supply the valves, springs, seats, and cam, either a 560 lft, 300 dur. or a 620lft 304 dur. as you can tell, im not going to daily driver here. i have been told by a couple people the early e88 would be best, and others the n42. im still researching things here and there. there is no class limit on what i want to do. the engine will probably be pulled this winter, and gone through, rings, bearings, stuff of that sort. im not looking to spin the motor to anything above 9 grand {diesel crank doesn't like this}
  12. rude? if you want to think that ok. words are taken out of context, and placed into a, "rude way of comming across". :shrugs: okies. i left it an open question for random theroy's on it. one person has an idea, another person has another. i have a pretty good idea on what i plan on running as far as valve train, and such things. i don't plan on having this car being anywhere near streetable, nor anywhere near pump gas friendly. {it barely is now} shaving about 600 lbs off the car, adding another good chunk of hp, and some tuning here and there will get me close to the goal. everyone has goals, we always don't reach them. anything over 300 rwhp would be a quick lil car. even if it require a DFI setup.
  13. um, gee, thanks? that pretty much, more or less made no sense. i already knew that. more or less going for cam specs, spring rates, lashpad's, oversized valves. {remember, ths is not going to be a turbo car} if some crazy japanese guy can run 9's in the 400m with an L28. i don't see why i can't run 11's
  14. alrighty, after a race on suday at a local track, the honda kids were all porud of their 12 second all motor cars that were gutted, lexan windowed out. blah blah now, i already have the bottom end to support what i want to do, but not the head. if you were to build a head {e31, early e88} yes, thats right, you can keep the p series stuff. going big and nasty on the port, cam, springs, retainers, so on and so forth. what would you do?
  15. stock head, stock su's crappy crane cam, i put down 192 rwhp and 204 ft lbs with a 3.1 motor n47 head too!
  16. you don't need a tach adapter. im runnin a 6al, and a mallory coil right now. the msd is wired directly into the tach wire, id have to look at the car to see what one it is
  17. it's a shortened version of an old s/n on a couple other forums. used to be silent2g. dsm thing.
  18. setup is simple 3.1 stroker stock n47 head, some goofy cam i have no idea what it is. su's, with sm needles, msa header 2.5 header back exhaust i go from making 192 rwhp to making 150? i have heard of dyno's being off, but got damn. there is a couple of z cars here in town that make the same power, over and over again. a 240 making 230 hp for the past 2 years and a frineds 300zx making 336. i understand about the whole dyno thing. i have worked on a couple of them.
  19. mustang dyno, 152. 12 % correction to a dyno jet 170 on a crappy tune 150 on a dynojet today wtf is goin here!!!!!!! i know my throttle shafts are leaking, but to lose almost 50 hp over the winter has never happened to me. motor has about 6k on it. really don't beat on it. guess my su's are just that screwed up? could the throttle shafts cause this much of a loss? maybe my exhaust is crushed down in the back due to it being 2 inchs off the ground and speed bumps suck any help?
  20. check the floats, i bet one of them is way off. also check the timing. that will also do the same thing as of running out of fuel. he doesn't need sm needles for a stockish l28
  21. laff. i made 192 with stock su's. aside from the sm needles. on a stock n47 head. if you know what you're doing with the carbs, and the engine itseld it can be done. it has been done. and it has been done on su's mines a 3.1, hence the higher then normal numbers. and a puny cam, with a crappy tune. su's have been recorded as high as 270 rwhp.not stock ones though.
  22. mmm i could use some triples for my 3.1 liter quicker240 PM me
  23. id love to help, but im so bloody confused as to what is going on. sorry bad joke i know.
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