Silent

i was thinkin of contacting the ebc guys and seeing if they can do a one off set in the red for me, or if anyone with the solid disc and yota calipers wants some. i could possibly get more made. dunno. just a thought

main studs - 202-5406 connecting rods - 202-6003 these are for the L series yer welcome {direct from the arp book}

so far i have ebc green, looking for something a little heavier, like reds. through my work i can get hawk, and ebc. at silly discounts. then again, im also stuck with the solid rotor. anyone running either of these pads with the 4 pistons and solid disc?

gimme some drag radials and i'll be right there with ya!!! ignore the bottle in the trunk, it's for looks i swear

lets put it like this, both motors with good builds, nothing extreme, stop light to stop light, the su car will win. i have proven this time and time again here against another z guy with a rebello 3 liter and triples. and me witha 3.1 and su's he has a steeper gear 4.36 vs my 3.90, same tranny, he puts down more power, but i get out on him about a car, and he does not start to come around me till about the 1000 ft mark at the track. on the street, in a span of maybe 300 ft, light to light, i get him every time, BUT on the highway in excess of 90 mph, he creeps away from me. he put down 230 rwhp me? varies, last tim ei dynoed it was 163 hp with a flat cam, and he STILL doesn't walk all over me. so it all depends on what the end user wants to do with the car. btw, my su's with shaved throttle shafts, 260 spacers, and shaved jet bridge are the mods i did. him, full build, 45mm webbers

HMMM itb manifold

get rid of the efi pump and put a holley red, or blue in it's place with a regulator and behappy

hmm, gonna have to order me one of those, with my new go fast parts im workin on, id rather spend more time on those then work on the damn valve cover

at least you can find your leaks. i have yet to find a valve cover gasket that doesn't leak. and the front of my engine seems to collect road grime, so it looks like the front cover is leaking all the damn time. it sucks *** OH, my oil pan has a slight leak too tranny leaks at least the rear diff doesn't leak ack po0

ebay it "additional block gaurd for honda's adds 1000% more cylinder wall support while compromising flow"

got it disregard post

im stickin with su's because ima simple kinda guy. im searchin for a decent set of jag su's now. im not in the mood at this point to drop 800 bucks on a set of prepped rebello su's for my car. i love the idea of triples, but spending 600 bucks in jets, 1200 bucks in carbs. almost 2 grand into the fuel side of it all. so i don't have that extra 15 hp from triples. i can live with that. as far as not having any top end from su's? um, no.

ah po0py, i find it hard to believe no one is running a stewart warner gauge.

alright, got all my gauges in, but my speedo, still trying to figure out how to do that without spending 100 bucks. anwyays, the fuel level gauge, when i got the gage it had some sort of resistor on the back of it. no biggie, hoked the wires up, gauge no movey. alright, so i took the resistor off. gauge moves, gauge moves to 3/4, then moves to full. now i know for a fact i had half a tank in the car before i started this. the yellow wire on the back of the stock gauge is the wire i used for the sending unit in the tank, "said unit on the back of thes tock gauge, so i gave it a shot" now, do i need to hook that resistor up? for the simple fact if i take a corner, IE right had turn, the gauge drops really fast to half, where ina sense is supposed to be, or left hand it jumps over full. the gauge is a 73-10 gauge {closest to dastun} did a search, and came up with autmoeter crap. called a buddy of mine who has a fuel level gauge from the same company, but his didn't have a resistor. orrrrrrrrrrr could i vari the voltage going from the gauge to the sendor with a variblae resistence dealy bob {poteniaometer, yes i suck at big words} all my other gauges read fast and damn accurate {tach is great!} im not looking forward to tearing my dash apart again to fix the gauge, but if it needs that resistor. im willing to do it. and i understand that it will be an 1/8th of a tank off in reading. no big deal. HELP!!!!!

you know you will eventually it's the "maxima" side in you that wants too

ah crap either way i have to pull the upper manifold off demmit! anyways, i guess this gives me an excuse to finisih my port job on the manifolds

ehhh, for nostalgia purposes i would a 700 hp nova is effin great for bustin buns in a straight line, but when it turns, thats where it falls on it's face, and the driver of the z car goes screamin by. or you could sell me the carbs either one lol

so far, the o2 sensor is brand new {100 some odd dollars later} and the temp sensor works fine {throws code when unplugged} so my last things are injectors, and or manifold leak, again.

nice work! should i expect the same level of work for my lonely street motor? i've been doing some thinkin about what i want, so i'll hit ya up later today, via pm, or call, either one

hmm according the calculator, i ran a 13.80@99 hmmmm stock head stock su's wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

find someone else to do the rods the stockers will hold it

right on. not bad, get that fuel leaned out to about 12.8 and she'll be happy i have come to the conclusion of skipping the 13's the 12's and heading straight for the 11's