Silent

alrighty, im getting set up with some gauges from stewart warner {im being different, sue me} but im looking for help on the speedo side of it. which sender to use, what modifications im going to have to do, i saw a post about the autometer modifications, but im not sure how it would cross over to stewart warner stuff. they do have speed sensors self powered ac output, two wire with 0.104" tip hall effect, 8 pulse, requires 12v, with 0.187" tip ford quick disconnect adapter for 114878 hall effect sender 0.104" square drive tip 0.187 drive tang .203 drive tang all of these are from the sw catalog, the tranny? zx 5 spd help a lil guy out!!!!

what i plan on doing is runnin a splitter off one one pump. and a seperate regulator and lines and all that jazz. my suggestion is this. split the fuel line at the tank before the pump, run a holley red, or blue at 7 psi, and a regulator. and fire the nitrous off that. that way your engine isn't going to be runnin out of fuel due to the pump. but this also leads to a possible restriction at the tank itself. just food for thought

i dead head my su's ie not runnin a return, i have not had a problem with this in 2 years. i never saw the purpopse of runnin a return with such low pressure

is it a wide band or narrow band o2? mine is set at 12.8:1 afr at wot idle it sits about 23 something to one. the car is rarely at idle, so this doesn't bother me. what about runnin an egt gauge to see where it is at 6k rpms in 4th. or going through the traps to see if it is too lean {14.5:1 seems way lean to lean}

hell im interested in the stahl header one a couple conditions round or square port. what size is the collector?

top feed i think. never pulled em off there, couldn;t tell ya really

ah yea the never turning off brake light must be a s30 thing, every s30 i have worked on, or ridden in,that light is always on, and im gonna cry if you tell me it still works right i like the front facia too!

im not sure what it's doing exactly. if it's running lean or rich. it does try and bog down, and stuff of thatnature. i may strap it to a dyno this weekend and load test it at the certain rpm range it does it at, and see if it's running lean or rich. my guess was the injectors. but i can check the temp sensor and see if it's being goofy or not, or if it's a loose connection. on the pathy board they were clueless. so i figured id try the z board MT this is Bryan H off maxima.org BTW

won't fit. not enough clearance between the strut towers

not in a z car, but same series, so someone might be able to help my daily driver, a 95 pathfinder se 4x4 jobbie box on wheels thing. is having an issue. when it's cold it runs great, but once it gets up to operating temp or close, it spits, spudders and at thingy below half throttle or 3k rpms throwing no codes. options on what it could be intake manifold gasket leaks o2 sensor mas air injectors. this is my guess, i could be way off, and it could be a bad connection somewhere. dunno. any help would be great

question. is there a way to tell on the outside ofthe head, if it is a z head or maxima head? another note 108 mph is good for mid 12's under severe traction {ie dead hook} i have seen 11's out of 108 mph {very very well set up mustang} 1/4 mile time does not equate to how fast a car is. show me mph, then i'lltell you if i want to runyou or not. but at 108, thats a negative. me running 14.0 @ 98 on a bone stock head with piddly crap done doesn't have the balls to hang. due to me being on this board, im being swayed away fromthe e31, and early e88{which i have a couple of} more towards the n42 and n47{which is in my car} BRAAP makes very good points, and yet i understand it. odd? naaa i have seen over 250cfm out of a e88 head, does it make it pump gas friendly? not likely. just because one person can do it,doesn't mean the rest of people on this boardwill runout and try it and have the EXACT same success. me? im not going to try it. or am i already? not sure. can't look at the bottom of the head while it's onthe block. think for a second. would you want someone to follow oyur exact footsteps and jump on the mn47 bandwagon because you said it would work perfectly without detonation? hell i ping at 38 degrees full advance. does this mean i will build someone the exact same set up? nope. the set up is not perfect by anymeans. does thi also meani can build another dsm to trap 108 mph with just bolt ons and a few hours with a die grinder? not likely. EVERY CAR IS DIFFERENT. take that into account when giving advice. please, for thelove of the z if anything else. im done mindless babbling. kickme later BRAAP, i'll be contacting you shortly about stuff

thi is where you can let your creative juices fly. i havesome in the backof my head. but i want to see, what you, the consumer would like to see. your idea's and such. honda nissan mazda mitsubishi Toyota chevy ford dodge/mopar and GO! im in no way shape or form affiliated with a clothing company, so this is just a random deal. and im bored.

i found a good connection for the vid. not sure how the admins feel about torret type d/l's so i won't post it in an open forum. pm me for the goodness! {dpn't ban me, im sharing the wealth of z goodness for those who suck at the net!}

im gonna cry now i can't seem to d/l it from the link posted for send something or other. when i find a viable source for the video i will let ya guys know

my 3.1 is going under the knife this winter. and comming out a fire breathing beast. head work, biggr cam, nitrous. the usual stuff. and still on stock {well sort of} su carbs. im looking at an easy 300 rwhp on bottle. sadly enough for the money i have spent, and the money going back into the motor, i could have built a 600 hp sbc for the money. all up to you. far and few between stroked L series. or the growing number of small block s30's

hiya

kick ***. one last question, i promise. on the screwed cam thats in the car, is there a way to tell what cam it is? without having it sent off to see? any markings anywhere i should look for? the front of the cam, rear of it?

has anyone told ya, you guys kick ***? thanks so much for the info. so with the .495 cam i won't have issues with anything. IE the msa cam kit. v80z, i have spare comlete heads, so the spare cam, springs, rockers, pads, blah blah i have. but thank you for the offer!. my main concern is i want it NOT to do this again. i know there isn't a 100% against it not happening again, but with matched parts its less likely

i plan on running modded 50 mm su's when it's all said and done. right now, they are modded, but not 50 mm. hence why i was leaning towards the .460 lift cam. because i really don't need to spin the motor over 6500. this is more or less what im leaning towards, not sure why, the msa .495 lift cam seems peachy to me too, it's one of those things "while im in there" granted it might be too much cam for the car now, but later on, ill have the cam and not have to spend another 600 bucks to do it again. .460 lift, or .495 lift? speeder, at what point do the valve stem seals becaome the problem?

this is the cam i was planning on getting. im lookin to stick with the stock head till im completely maxed out on it, as in modded su's ported intake, port matched intake on the head. but nothing to extreme. im not even sure what cam is in my car or anything about it till i pull it. hence why i asked about the 460 lift on stock springs without modifications, IE changing springs. im not going to balls out radical till i get my n42 done

ahhh crap. i knew something was funky because everytime i would stick it on the dyno, the power would keep getting lower, and lower and lower. started at 192 now it's down to 142. guess it's best to happen in the winter time instead of the middle of the summer during racing season. are the cam packages from msa pretty decent? or would i be bettr off to piece one together? last question, is the max lift the stock spring can take is 450? 460 would be pushing it right?

ahh piss. alright question, who makes the cams for MSA? because i don't want the same cam