Synlubes

Hey folks, I just paided $120.00 for 2 nissan "outter" tie rods for my 260. The site below has them for $35.00 each. The site says "Nissan Parts store", I can only guess that it is a Nissan part ? Has anyone purchased from these folks ? http://www.nissanpartstore.com/

Cody, This works very well ! http://www.amsoil.com/products/tgr.html "AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Gear Lube provides limited slip performance. Although generally not necessary, original equipment manufacturers' limited slip additives may be used in conjunction with AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Gear Lube."

I`m looking to paint a rear spoiler and want it to show larger than it actually is. I know colors play tricks on our sight, making things look longer, shorter, etc. Any suggestions ?

Scott, I have had some simular thoughts. I`ve offten looked at this area and thought . . . I am going to look at it some more. Post some pics.

Welcome to HybridZ. It depends on which E-88 head it is. There is 1 E-88 head that was an emissions head (73 / 74 I think). It has a crappy combustion chamber and is junk ! 72 came with a "good" E-88 head (as far as combution chambers, but had small valves). Now, if you go turbo a P-90 head would be a good find (NOT a P-90A). If you go NA, an N-42 would be hard to beat ! Just my opinion.

The set up mentioned here was recommended by and parts came from Ground Control and used their "advanced Design" ajustable struts. It was on a 71 240 ITS car (using 280 front and rear strut housings) (setting track records and winning races / east coast)(with a Very good driver of course). The car had logs from six years of racing, trying many different configuations and this (out of all) seemed to work well. Now, is it the only setup to go with ? Of course not ! It`s just a good starting point . When people who know talk, I listen ! I also helped crew this car, so that doesn`t hurt either. Just food for thought !

Ck that the fuel filters aren`t holding some crap in them. My car sat for a while, when I got it going again after a few miles the car would start loosing power and then die. Long story short, I ended up changing fuel filters about every 100 miles until the tank got cleaned out.

Hey folks, I saw this pic of member Ozoners car and had a thought. Notice the tabs along the flame rails Now, with some tabs mounted along the rails use a sheet of *something* to close in the center under belly. ? ? ?

What are the tabs off the frame rails for ? Nice looking rework on the floors and rails.

Just think of the fun you hard in the car, auto X, etc. . . If your like me, every time I`ve driven mine I always come back and think what a good ride that was! (even when the car wasn`t all that) Just do what you can do, keep it protected from the elements and think of the fun times. Hope that helps!

I would go with a heli-coil incert. Avalible most anywhere and easy. A kit would have the drill bit, tap and install tool all in one. You will keep things using the same and correct size hardware.

I made some non-ajustable camber plates for the front. I used 1/8 flat steel (3.5 inches outside dia) and the inner portion of the stock shock cap (the part with the D shaped hole). I drilled for the 3 mounting studs, moved the center hole off center 3/4" , used a hole saw and cut out for the shock cap piece and welded it to the flat plate (also welded all studs). It has worked very well and gave me 1 degree more negitive camber. *** I don`t recommend using something like this with a hollow core shock shaft (i.e. ajustable shocks) ***

HEY, I had a 6 cly dart with big tires 20 years ago. And it was ugly too ! If I was 20 years younger, I`d be souping up a Honda (I guess). Gosh, wish I was 20 years younger. . .

Nathan, Give this site a look and see if their linkages will work with your Solex carbs. http://piercemanifolds.com

I`ve run a welded 3.70 R200 for about 3 years with no problems ! I do track events not drags. There is some frt push at low speeds and it is a big b1tch to push the car. I have not had any u-joint problems, although I change them yearly so I don`t have any failures. I say go for it !

That`s pretty cool ! The engineers out there alt to get a kick out of it.

The fire bottle is in the car to do one job ! And it isn`t to look cool or to fit in a nice little spot in your car ! It needs to be mounted where YOU can get to it ! FAST I have the $30.00 bottle that racer wholesale sells and it is just right. Don`t buy a cheap one with plastic trigger and strap ! And when you do get one, check it regularly for charge !

For right now, keep the L motor, up grade the brakes / suspension and keep looking if you want another car for the other mods. MO Sell the two stock L motors and use the cash for your mods to the car you have now and enjoy it ! ! !

The Volk Racing wheels really look nice on your car ! (without the flares) So with your photoshop skills, What does your car really look like ?

Never seen one that big ! I the injector looks to be as big as a man. What is something like that used for ?

They are very nice looking wheels. I think they would look great on just about any car.

75W-90 gear lube would be a good choice. Try some synthetics if the fuild coming out of it is clean.

Yes, A good 5,000 mile breakin period is a good number. I also would recommend (using non-synthetic) changing oil and filter at 100, 2500 and 5000 miles after a fresh motor. Then go with some synthetic lubes. I personally change oil and filter after the first run(30 min), then at 100, 1000, 2500, 4000 miles on my freshies. Then I install my synlubes. I have not, nor have I had any customers with oil consumpions problems. Even the cars with higher mileage before doing lube changes. I think alot has to do with breakin procedures, crappy rings, cly wall condition or it wasn`t put together just rite from the get go(ie factory).

Doesn`t John Washington make one ?

Yes that is correct. Camber is a good thing for better handling.