Gollum

Thanks for the insight Tim!!! I meant scraps... boy I got a good chuckle out of that this morning. You've assumed correctly though. The plenum would be on the passanger (left hand drive) side of the vehicle, opposite side of the inlets. I know the runner length LOOKS really long, but idealy the plenum would hug the valve cover really well to keep the distances short.

Anything wrong with either name though? Both companies have had their moments. I'll be following this swap for sure. The more pics the better. VERY light motor and should offer a very good weight balance to work off of.

Yea, I realize the overall length would be about the same. It's just a simpler/cleaner setup in my eyes. I've also considered making my own manifold that just stays on the driver's side, just means getting an intercooler with the inlet and outlet on the same side, and figuring out how to fit them through the core support.

I got this picture from one of BRAAP's posts. He's the MAN (in a good way) So 1.3" is 33mm, so my runners are slightly oversized in that picture.

Oval tubing is more expensive and harder to find. I'm honestly not sure how large the stock runner diameter is. Lemme see what I can dig up real quick. I'm not going to be porting the head, so I'm not sure how much benefit there would be to increasing the runner diameter. Oh, and from looking at JohnC's pictures of his race car there's plenty of room to go down and back.

Yea, hood clearence would be tight to say the least... I've been considering a lower and farther back engine placement if I do this, wich really adds some cost. $100+ for mounts $100+ for driveshaft shortening Those runners are.... 35mm? Lemme check... Yup, 35mm. Finding exact specs on the stock setup wasn't EASY. Though I didn't look too long I admit. At least I didn't start a thread asking for that info. The throttle is 60mm, and offset to the far side. I was thinking this should help eaven out the flow between cylinders a tad. EDIT: I take that back. Mount's should be that expensive. Just need to find some scrap metal around and buy a case of beer for the welder friend

First: This is posted here because so many other intake manifold threads are here. Should this section get renamed to Air/Fuel Delivery? Ok, I've been kicking this idea around my head for a while now. This is my basic "sketch" I made to give a visual to what I'm going to say: I know this would have to be changed a bit to actually work, it's just a sketch. One of the most obvious things to me is there needs to be more straight material at the head so there's room for the manifold bolts. One of the main reasons I even thought of this idea, was a way to get around complicated intercooler piping. With this design you avoid needing to feet two intercooler pipes through one side, or running the far side around tight bends to be between the radiator and valve cover. I realize the runner length is insanely long, but I'm not sure that will really hurt performance THAT much. I myself don't plan on running a hot cam, or making power beyond 7k. In the long run I expect to still peak power aruond 5500-6k. This will be a street driven Z, and I don't want to ruin power at any RPM. If I do make this I hope to make it for under $300. I'll be using aluminum solder with a propane torch , and getting aluminum craps if I can. My budget GOAL is actually $200, but $300 is more of the expected budget. Another upside I was thinking about is that this gives you much easier access to the turbo, might also help keep the turbo a bit cooler giving it some extra space for air to move around. So... advice? Suggestions? Should I leave X amount of runner exposed inside the plenum or make it a smooth transition?

No I havn't. I'll try to get something today or tomorrow posted for ya. I kinda want that ground texture... Anyways, I've already got another crank design on my computer, this time spec'ed to the SBF instead of the Mod motor. I'm getting better at this I'm kinda holding off on rendering a video though, since I'm considering starting over. I've been looking into multipiece crankshafts... I've been looking at too many F1 and other race car crank designs and I'm thinking I could design something much better. Here's a picture of what I've currently got though:

Anyone else see anything wrong with this sentence? Don't take this as me picking on you nando, but you'll never be able to outrun the cops. Consider yourself lucky. There's NO speed they won't chase you. There was a ticket given, I think about a year ago, for over 240mph in texas. I don't remember what supercar it was, but they nailed him good.

On the list i think my vote goes to the subie. Replacement parts aren't too expensive, and are more availible than say... audi. I've always been impressed with the history the celica cars have had in rally. In the celica's long history it's almost ALWAYS had a place in rally, even if it wasn't top dog. They'd be worth looking into and researching.

Sorry for the loss Warren. I pray everyone recovers well.

I saw Paul's new title and got a good laugh. Came to check this thread and I'm REALLY laughing now. Love the new avatar mopar has.

I'm not hip on all the actual history, but Pete made it sound like the Z was never really THAT sucessful, though the 510 did very well.

If he drives it to the track and owns slicks he might change back to his all seasons for the drive back. The times seem sketchy though. There have been guys to make it into the 12's on the stock turbo, and 11's on the stock turbo longblock... but 10's?... Maybe the track was downhill.

Saw one a few years ago. I thought it was hilarious. The kids around seemed to like it.

Pete Brock mention that one of the big things that hurt the S30 in rally performance (baja, he's huge on baja) was the long nose. Due to the long bonnet, the hood would constantly be in your way to see the upcomming road when you were going over crests (which is almost constantly). This caused a hesitant driving style which was NOT as fast as one would hope for. He mentioned that mechanically he thought the Z could be a winner, it's just that the view from the driver seat just doesn't work. Though if you know the course like the back of your hand I guess it's not a problem.

I can't think of any part of an ethanol fuel system that wouldn't be able to use pump gas around the country. The key would be a seperate fuel and spark map that actually worked. If you were running sub 12:1 compression then 91 octane might be passable on most engines with the timing retarded enough. But if the engine is running as high of compression as possible on E85, I'm not sure any amount of timing retardation would make it drivable. Would be a fun experiment.

I thought the red ZX looked great! But: 1 - The front air dam needs more character, a bit plain. 2 - The fog lights need to go. 3 - Rear bumper kills the back end. The back end looks like it's poo'ing. 4 - The wide body lines could be a tad bit more rounded/angled on the top line so it's not SO boxy. That's my take on it. Great idea, not my prefered execution.

Chris wanted me to post my pics asap, and I had misplaced my camera cable... woops. Here they are, sorry it took so long.

My current build = I've made rods that are now to spec. I need to shorten the length of my rod journals on the crank slightly, but I was happy how close my guess came. EDIT: I now have a video with pistons -

Well, if you both show up to the August 30th meet... I just really hope by some magical event that this car is on the road by then. (just seems like there's still going to be so much left to do in such little time)

Sure, it can get 35mpg with tons of power, but how does it drive off boost? There's a reason it gets 35mpg. Power takes fuel. That mpg figure tells me it's as guttless as any other commuter box until you put your foot deep into it. Nothing necessarly wrong with that though, if that's what you're going for.

You must be racing in a class that doesn't allow aftermarket air dams, those bumpers are HEAVY!!!!

Lurk the archives, it's been done... if we're talking 300 crank HP then that's EASY. 300 rear wheel hp has been done on the stock turbo and fuel as well. Not very often though. At 10PSI though... not unless the head has been modded, but scout already cleared that up. 300 crank hp will only be about 255 wheel hp, which will need about 13psi on the stock turbo or so to make depending on air temp, elevation, etc. Stock fuel injectors will be fine at that point. Maybe raise the fuel pressure a couple PSI. 300 wheel hp will need about 15psi, which has been done on the stock turbo. At that point the fuel pressure will need to be about 60-70psi or higher. I can't say how reliable it would be though... One interesting setup I saw a long time ago, was a guy running his fuel at 100 psi!!!!! He was using several stock nissan fuel pumps to supply the extra fuel. (two pumps in series or parallel will supply twice the fuel, or be under half the stress at the same flow) My point is that there's been some insane things done in the past, and I've learned to believe nearly anything is possible with some creative engineering.

And as the thread author I'd like to thank you wiki D. You live up to that name. You obviously know what you're talking about and contributed honest experience to the thread. And you kept it pretty unbiased in the political sense, and for that I thank you. It was a worthy contribution. Don't fear it that those words will fall on deaf ears.