Nelsonian

Under the vendors forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94483-new-l-motor-motor-mounts-rubber-and-poly/page__view__findpost__p__891013__hl__%2B+%2Bpoly+%2Bengine+%2Bmounts__fromsearch__1

It's been awhile, and wondering if there has been any progress with the swap???

A good friend of mine had this white ghia for a while in Hawaii. Before this he had a fun little candy orange with rims, lowered bug. Can't remember the year but the rear window was oval or baby window. That was a fun car (not fast), but always got alot of attention at Sandy beach and around Oahu. The 808 state has a big VW following...

Here is an example of some of the interior plastic pieces. One that I did not mention is the plastic cap that covers the top of the carpeted floor just behind the driver and pass seats. I do not think this piece is available for replacement. I was just originally thinking of replacing mine with a nice piece of channeled brushed alluminum, but if it were available in carbon fiber, hmmmnnn...

^^^ My thoughts exactly... Looks like a whole lot of oversteering fun with that engine combo. Love the lines and overall Giorgetto Giugiaro design....

Just a thought in regards to the complete dash. For alot of members on here who have swapped engines and are in need of more monitoring gauges, how about considering another option of complete dash with more gauge provisions as well as the stock configuration....

How about reproducing all the plastic interior panels in carbon fiber, including roof light panel,rear drivers/passengers sides, etc....

Cockerstar, I got lucky and scored the very clean crud thug from ebay for $240 shipped. It had a set of 4 new belts and the erasure wheel, which seemed to be the only task they used it for.Love that tool. I have used it for stripping thick,thick bondo, paint, rust. Here are a few more shots of the begining stages of uc removal....

I actually bought a rotisserie, (Derick Weaver I believe it was), after searching and contacting everyone I could to buy, borrow rent one. For my situation, it was money well spent and allowed me to do the thorough job I was envisioning. As it was a professionally built, and guaranteed well beyond the z cars weight, I had no fear bolting up and cranking it to the top. After making some needed plates for bolts, I connected both ends. Fronts bolted up where the bumper provisions are, rears the same. I had a friend on the other side raise his side in even strokes as to my side, which kept it from binding on its way up or down. I ended up cleaning it up when I was finished and traded it for very professional welding labor. Win, win, in the end. AS has been seen many times here home brewed rotisseries can be made for much cheaper. I just did not have the time frame and needed to get the rotis as soon as possible and begin working, as I was using someone elses property to strip the car.

^^^ I would have to say your tool choice or method of the two you mentioned, depends very much upon the condition of your undercoating,(still soft and pliable, or hard and dried out). I had alittle of both and originally started with the torch, scraper method, but to get all of the now gooey uc off required working as fast as the heat would allow you to. The needle scraper sped up the process quite a bit. Pros and cons to both methods, (noisy, vibrating needle scaler, or horrible smelling, burning gooey uc). In the end, the tools of choice for me were the Snap On "crud thug", and the needle scaler and pnumatic chisel both purchased from china freight. Not a fun job but, makes all the difference in the world knowing what condition your metal is in. Best of luck either way...

The plastic welding is truely inspirational to me. So much so I have a plastic welding kit on it's way from Eastwood.com. I really like the path you are taking with the fascia, and suede treatment.

"The entire dash, and console will be done in stitched suede so I'm hoping for a nice tight flush finish to those area's". ^^^ I have the same vision as what you have just said for what I am after and trying to achieve. As I mentioned, can't wait to see this build progress.

John, I really like this whole build you have going here. The interior parts combining is great and I'm definately looking forward to the final product. When the time comes to focus on my interior, I will be using this as motivation to figure out a feesible solution to adding air con/heat to my s13 dash swap. Love how you plastic welded components to make a custom piece.

Here is how I had my fenders prepared for the subtlez kit. I am planning,(hoping they will fit), on using the group buy Rota RBR's in 17x9.5" with GC coilovers, adj lower control arms and adj camber plates.

^^^ I very much agree ^^^ Need some flogging and exhaust note video

^^^ "People take safe cars for granted and drive like they're playing gran turismo. I see way to many people buy huge cars under the assumption that they are inherently safer and drive like assholes. In fact I wish I had a tally of all the times I've been cut off or passed by someone whose weaving with the pedal to the floor and put an actual statistic on just how many of those are large trucks and SUVs. The higher the lift on a vehicle also seems to correlate with how terrible the driver." My thoughts and experiences virtually on every days commute to and from work.

Pantera, BMW Z4, Sunbeam Tiger, Chevelle,

Lotus Elise, Acura NSX, Yugo

I have a nice stock l28et rail with the fpr minus the injectors and fittings that you can have for a six pack of st pauli girl or dos equis.Mmmm Beer!

^^ Thanks for the heads up, might just have to go that route...

I am looking for a rubber grommit that resides under the large spring for my 240z. Looking for one that isn't hard and cracking. Picture shows exactly what I am after.

Hey thanks for breaking these down Oddmanout84. I just purchased a new turbo pump for a 5spd and yeah, there prices, just like Nissan dealerships for an automatic are just as you quoted over $200. It's nice to see the comparisons side by side.

FricFrac, I'm with ya on that last commentas these Rota's look so right on an s130.

I don't know if this would be an option or not but I will through it out there. I picked up a 240 dash from a '72 that only has one long crack from the middle of three smaller gauge provisions and two quarter inch size spider cracks forming closer to the pass side top. The vinyl still feels supple unlike my dried out dash that originally came with my '73. I was planning on rebuilding it with all the SEM products as others have done on here but the original was too far gone, hence the reason I picked up this '72 dash.

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