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Everything posted by Nelsonian
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Urethane engine mounts are available from Mckinney motorsport. I think they are listed in the vendors forum here.
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Anyone care to share a video clip with the rest of us?
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Steve, Love what your doing with your car. Please take lots of video ringing out that engine when you are finished. The sound of a stroker rowing through the gears is music to my ears.
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I have used three cans of the eastwood internal frame coat on every possible opening I could get the nozzle into. The car has been sitting in a garage, in it's bare shell form for the better part of 8 months now. From what I can see in the hatch hinge pockets, it is holding up well. I will rehit every crevace, nook and cranny after the car is blasted and primed. I hope this holds up for the long haul, if not then it was only a minimal investment.
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Thank you for adding important info regarding heat containment. ^^ Definitely alot of info on venting.. I'm taking this approach of louvered inspection lids and welded in flush stock zx naca duct over the turbo. I'm still debating on making small openings on both sides where the battery box and across would reside.
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All of those colors would look great on a z. Just when I thought I had narrowed down three different silvers. Your right,it is hard to choose....
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From bits of pieces of info gathered while reading other related posts, I concluded that it is far greater a benefit to contain exhaust heat from a thermal exhaust flow standpoint. Another benefit naturally would be more longevity of the ancilliary components in the direct heat path residing close to the turbo, ex mani,(fuel rail,inj,brake components,etc..). The only main negative or adverse effects I recall reading about occured with some people hot coating na headers, and (iirc), it was Pacesetter products deteriorating much quicker than they normally seem to do. I certainly hope I am correct in my approach to combat the heat that my turbo will make, especially for my plans of autocrossing the never ending project. Would love to hear from others who definitively know the answer to your query.
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Senza, You are an artist! Truely beautiful work.
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I agree 100% with everything FricFrac and others have pointed out. Wrap the exhaust mani, and turbo inducer side as well as downpipe. Try to contain as much of the heat source as possible. I did a similar approach to what fricfrac did with his intake. Removed the top cap to get at it from the inside and ported the runners opening them up. I removed bosses and cleaned up the exterior for a final polish. I put it aside for awhile to focus on other aspects of the rebuild, but will continue in the near future. I had the turbo housing and ex mani 2000* powder coated silver. I plan on wrapping the ex mani and downpipe with DEI titanium wrap as well as the diaper for the turbo. I also plan on making a small heat shield with dei wrap for the brake cylinder components. Just trying to eliminate as much heat as possible for efficiency and longevity of parts.
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I'm not 100% sure if it's light refraction or what, but the weave pattern sure looks wavy gravy in the close ups.
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is this anyones car? anyone know whos car this is?
Nelsonian replied to Dillon's topic in Non Tech Board
I'm pretty sure I've seen photos of that car at the japanese classic car show in long beach. Might have been 09 or 10'.. Not sure who's car it is, but love the wheels..... -
Z Greek, Nice to see your project moving along very swiftly already. You are right about the undercoating removal, that shi* goes everywhere. I had great luck with a Snap on, crud thug tool. Very well built and does not break off little wires like a lesser wheel you apply to a drill will. Not cheap, but the RIGHT tool for the job. I also used a cheapie harbor freight needle scaler, and pneumatic chisel to get into tight spaces. It's absolutely worth doing it completely thorough and right from the get go. Keep us up to date with updates and a little info on your plans for that nice little Honda in the background.
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Frame rail restoration pics
Nelsonian replied to ComicArtist's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I had the frame rails/sub frame connectors replaced along with the floors from Zedfindings all at the same time. The car was tacked to a level body cart/dolly. The structure is very stout and doesn't even barely flex under my measily 150 lbs. Even if my floors were good enough to save, I still would have cut out the old swiss cheesed rails and replaced with the new. -
My 240Z on the cover of Modified Magazine
Nelsonian replied to Blakt Out's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I picked up the mag for a flight back home to NC, last week for vacation. Congrats on building one of the nicest examples around. Lots of other nice cars in that issue as well... -
I'm not 100% certain that these might fit the bill, but have seen some other members install the last generation rx7,(fd3s) seats into s30's. I am unaware of any other oem seats that have more bolstering and have comparable height tolerances as the stockers. I am almost positive you would have to modify the mounts or rails or both. I can tell you from first hand experience you certainly would have to modify the rails/mounts for using early bmw recaro seats, but they grip nicely.
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Vildini are the originators of the 240sx dash swap....
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I started looking at the fd3s rx7 dash wondering if that would fit, but never got to the point of measuring. I like the the 240sx dash swap and was going to go that route, but am thinking about just completly rebuilding my stock one with more gauge openings. Most of the other swaps have been of the custom, aluminum nature. What exactly are you considering, something untried and never done before or?
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Reaction research makes the "subtle z" fronts which are fiberglass, bolt right in and offer 1 1.5" flare over stock...
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As has been pointed out on other related threads, having a tank of fuel in the engine bay next to a hot turbo charged engine only adds to the safety concerns. Another member here, (forget screen name), had a beautifully tigged tank, just looked amazingly well done, leak and start a small fire. I was personally turned off to this idea once monster and others showed the ATL black box option. Fuel pump, baffled all in one small package keeping fuel in the main tank and eliminating another potential fire hazard. I know there are many here that do run the surge tank method with good results, but I'm just thinking that if you can go another route without needing to potentially add a pot of fuel into a hot environment why take the risk?
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For you L series guys, Check this transmission out
Nelsonian replied to rayaapp2's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
A big thanks for the advice on running the larger more stout bearing. I will take heed of this info and go that route with my s14 trans. -
Jakeoster, If you want to go the all in approach, have it plastisoled(sp?) by these guys gastankrenu.com... They will seperate the tank, blast, clean then apply the plastisol (sort of like plastic powdercoating), then reatatch and lastly paint the outside. It isnt as cheap as buying the eastwood self cleaner kit, but it provides you with a protective coating and freshened metal underneath. I had a 75' tank done at the Bellflower gastankrenu, but sold it as I found out about the ATl black box method.
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Post your favorite Z other than your own.
Nelsonian replied to dailydrifter's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Chaz, I just had to weigh in on my take and opinions of your car. I can't get enough of the final outcome, and as a stickler for details almost to the point of being anal-retentive, I can more than appreciate and respect the work that all who were involved have done. I very much like the approach and outcome of the gnose and airdam that the Jones team came up with. For some reason to me a g-nose looks too elongated and disprortionate (though very functional),from the front wheel to say a regularly applied aftermarket airdam. Your approach pulls it off fantasicly. The curvy hip line from the rear view looking forward down the side,(one of my favorites for these cars) just looks intense and bulbous ala early porsche 911 turbo. I am wondering if the wheels are available in 17" options, though I bet they start at 18's as most badass wide wheels seem to start at that size for most modern cars. I completely agree with the "from the factory" approach of adding functional vents that are well blended in as opposed to just plopped on the body. The whole car looks very balanced. Very well done, and now I must submit it to this thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86554-post-your-favorite-z-other-than-your-own/page__view__findpost__p__821066__fromsearch__1).
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I have one from my l28et sitting in my parts storage. I will be using a fidanza lightened version, so not in need of the stocker anymore. Pm if interested...