dustin280zx

you should always retorque engine parts after it is warm (like 5 minutes of runnign the engine) just to be safe and make sure everything is sealed. i usually get 1/2 turn to 1/4 turn on head bolts.

i saw the truck headers too and was thinking it the would work on my 83 280zx. i'll be using the jtr mounts and if i cant find a set of headers i'll just use the ones jtr sells for now, but i dont like the primaries being so small (1 5/8"). I have to say i'm excited about my swap. i just bought a set of brodix track one heads that are fully ported and polished that flow 304 @ .700. should bring my 350 alive. but anyway tell us how the truck headers fit.

you'd have to get the part number. all the cam companies can custom make a cam for you so just because its that certain lift, lobe seperation, ect. it could be a comp, crane, isky, or whatever

there not even 60,000 in parts for that car. motor might have cost 10 at the most. if i was going to by a 60,000 dollar car. the motor better be worth 40,000 and run in the 7's.

the gto's arent bad for stock production cars...down at the track i saw a new one with an ls2 got low thirtneens...he was around 13.1 13.0. not bad for being stock production cars.

does anyone know the diameter of the motorsport driveshaft or reliability?. 280 bucks is cheap considering a custom one would cost about 500 bucks. But i'd rather spend my money once. I got a 280zx by the way...the other v-8 driveshafts for a z is more.

my suggestion is just to make up for all those poeple that do. letting off the gas or pedaling before the end of the quarter mile is sandbanging to me. turning up the boost a bit or adding more nitrous is just racing to win.

the untilmate pinks car would be on nitrous or a turbo. just run it and each time you do turn the boost up or put bigger jets in. so you negoiate, add more, and win. screw them cry babies. they all sand bag anyway and the guys that actually do run there car all its got gets screwed in the end.

jnjdragracing, are you using the cvs from a 280zxt?

manual = driveline parts breaking automatics are ALOT easier on driveline parts

i watched the z from hybrid on youtube. just searched for PINKS drag racing.

hybridynamics.com i read the thread on ls1 tech and it gave me a good laugh. i hope they rerun it this weekend.

they should take that rich guy and his other two nimrods (advisors or whatever) off the show and just let the drivers do it because they dont the difference from a muffler bearing to a rod bearing lol. dont get the speed channel in my dorm though which sucks because that and modern marvels are all i ever watch back home. hopefully it will be on you tube soon. 240sx win?

are there any full length headers that come close to fitting. i read that most guys used 5205 S&S but i didnt read about anyone trying them on zx's. i know that jtr has shorties but they are 1 5/8 primaries and i want 1 3/4 and full length. i know grumpy listed like 5 headers that might work a couple of weeks ago but i coudlnt find it. oh and i am also going to use the jtr kit.

extreme velocity http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXTREME-VELOCITY-4150-PROCHARGER-SUPERCHARGER-CARB-HAT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33741QQihZ010QQitemZ200036876356QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

welp i went to the junkyard today and what did i find...a '88 300zx turbo with a r-200 clsd. i went to the guy to see what he wanted for it and he said if you pull it yourself 100 bucks....i said OK!!. it took me about 10 minutes to pull it....diffs are so mutch easier to pull when the car is on its side...lol. so i brought it home and just to make sure i got a heck of a deal i opened it up and the gears are in great shape. no chips or anything. now considering the last one on ebay i saw (like 4 months ago) went for alittle under 600 plus shipping...i think i got a good deal.

no, brownfield turned into afr. i am going to talk to some poeple this weekend that used to run them to see what flow they got out of them.

you know the flow #'s for a brownfield 205cc head? I know they are the old afrs but i couldnt find anything on google for flow.

they are for safety...just incase a cylinder does detonate to early the forged piston will take a beating other then a hypereutectic pistons where you'll just have a nice hole in it. forged pistons are well worth the money.

your trying to over complicate things...all you need to do is make sure you have good fuel and take some timing out. theres guys run hypereutectic pistons that run 400 shot of nitrous. the only thing that kills pistons is detination. just ask any turbo guy its the same way. boost dont kill pistons...detination does. just start out with a 100 shot...check the plugs and go from there. and if you do flub up you can get a used set of forged on ebay for cheap.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm that site made me never want a vlsd. i would think it would be worse at limited slippage with high horsepower engines.

glad you figured it out...have fun throwing the juice to it.

.6 oz- 93 octane+2 = 95 octane 1.2 oz- 93 octane+96.5 1.8- 93 octane+100 and so on weather the new octane is motor you'll have to research it or contact the company. vp also sells an octane booster http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_03_chemicals.html

my mistake...i thought it was a typo...i wasnt thinking about the big displacement small block chevys when i read it.

do you know what it flashes too? '71 240Z, 454 SBC, 4L80E, 9 inch Ford, 4.11's, Moser axles, full cage, etc. (11.20@126.17) you trying to make poeple guess what you got?....454 sbc...lol