Cable

Another question. Is the front mount that you used for the R230 the same bolt mounting spacing on R200's from Q45's? I ask because I am in process of doing the R230 swap (from a 300zxtt) and I am about to get the last pair of CV's for the swap from a '90's Q45 in the wreaking yard. So if the front mount you used from a 300zxtt is the same bolt spacing, I'll grab it too while I am at it.

If these will work just as well on a R230 as they do in the R200 pictured, count me in for a set too!!

Digging up an old post..... Did you have to cut/notch the subframe to clear the diff? Also, did you space the diff forward at all? Lastly, did you have to modify the lower control arms to clear the CV's? Thank you for your time.

For those interested, here is a R230 on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Nissan-Fairlady-Z-Z32-300ZX-Twin-Turbo-R230-VLSD_W0QQitemZ110084289727QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33731QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Update?

What are Q45 R200 diffs going for these days?

Hey guys, well my torque converter died and I am replacing it this weekend. The new piece is a low end ATI unit. While its not ideal for drag racing, it will serve me well until I figuire out if I am going to go through all the trouble (and cost) of upgrading to an overdrive trans like a built 2004-R or 4L80.

If I end up buy a Autopower bolt-in cage I will end up welding up the cage to the floor after installing bolting it in anyway, just for good measure. So far the cheapest I can find the Autopower bolt in cage is $550 w/o shipping. Anyone know of a place cheaper? Thanks!!

That's awesome!! Thank you for the pics and it looks like the bar held up pretty good considering the damage to the car.

I have considered serveral times of going the solid live axle route instead of messing around with a R230 w/CV's. I love the draglites!! If I were ever to go the solid axle route, I would keep the axle wide and run a 15x12 rims with TONS of backspacing so the wheel face would be in the same location as a IRS setup. That way unless someone looked way low and from the rear, no one would notice of the huge amount of meat tucked under the car. Sleeper..... Then again, my 4" cowl on my car doesn't exactly say sleeper either......

Why is that?

Back to the top......

My sig says it all.......

Bump for updates!!

Bump!!

Digging up an old post, but do you have any pics of your Autopower cage? I am interested in one for my little Z, but wanted to see one installed first. Thanks!!

Digging up an old post, but does anyone have pics of the Autopower 6 point bolt-in cage in their Z car? Thanks!!

Bump!!

Geez, I can't believe I missed this topic!! I have lots of pics on my Car Domain link in my sig. If you or anyone else wants help, please ask!! Thanks!!

Hey guys, I finally updated my Car Domain page with new pics and details. Just click the link in my sig!! Thanks guys!!!

Thank you for your kind words. You can put a BBC in a '62-'67 Chevy II, it just requires fenderwell headers or a complete sub-frame swap. I would think that your shipmate would be more accepting of a Chevy motor into an import instead of an import motor into a Chevy. Thanks again. You'll get your ride Gary, no worries. I just gotta get a few things worked out first..... Agreed, especially about the tuning part. I bet I am leaving at least 50 hp on the table rioght now because of the little tuning I've done. I still need to upgrade my fuel system, including a larger carb. I also want to play around with a few timing curves, although I am seriously thinking of running locked-out timing in the 32*-36* range. It will be one less thing to worry about. Then I'll need to invest in a decent converter. The one I am running now is a no-name 10" and my rough math is telling me that the converter is slipping about 12-15% on top end. It doesn't owe me anything, I picked it up for free and it would be fine if I had 350 ft or torque instead of 500+. A good converter from a good company like ATI or Coan will only slip 5-7% on a bad day with hot ATF.

Well guys, you might have to wait for those pics. I think the front pump or my converter in my TH350 just died..... I am sure it will be weeks before I'll get around to yanking the motor/trans and have a tranny shop replace the pump, then finding time to put everything back together. Oh the joy!!

Chevelle/Camaro/Vette had 5 on 4.75" bolt patterns. Changing the rears to a 5 on 4.75" is pretty easy, the front is another story. Modern Motorsports sells the setup for the rear to be a 5 on 4.5" pattern (Ford/Mopar) and using a front Z32 hub is also 5 on 4.5". Hope this helps.

It only does it in gear, moving or sitting in place. It is definately a squeal, almost like a belt slipping. I have been debating on going to an overdrive anyway, I might go that route soon anyway. After reading a recent topic that you posted in, it looks like the 4L80 would be my best course. I don't want to run a computer and I've heard there is a way to set it up that I will just have to manually shift it, is this correct? Besides shorting my driveshaft, what else is required for the swap? Thanks for you help!!

I am seriously considering the 4L80 too, what years/models did they come in? Thanks!!