Cable

Umm, how?

Update: I finished the short block on Sunday. I have everything to put my heads together, except PC valve seals (I should have them by Friday). If I get them on time I'll put the heads together on Friday night or Saturday. Then I'll slap the heads on, then the intake, water pump, flexplate, etc. Hopefully I'll have time to do some mockups for the first time with a complete BBC (minus headers, ordering them on the the 27th along with the aluminum radiator). The reason I am doing more mockups is because I just wanna make sure everything will be good-to-go when its time to drop the motor/trans in for good. If I can get someone over with a digital camera I'll take some shots and get'em posted for you guys. Crap, that reminds me. I still gotta get to the dealer to get the various TH-350 tranny seals I need before I slap the motor and trans together. I gotta install my Trans-Go Stage II Shift-Kit too. Geez, its the little stuff that kills me.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I seriously hope you are wrong. I am getting a custom set of headers made that 'should' clear everything *crossing fingers*. They'll require use of a mini-starter, but that's no biggie because I am already running one.

I am think of buying the 5.5" version and then having my buddy machine some billet .5" spacers to make an even 5.0" of backspacing.

What size are you Weld's (width & backspacing) front and rear? What size tires (front & rear)? Are you running coilovers? I will be going with either the rodlites or the draglites for project_bbz. I think your car looks awesome by the way. Thanks dude.

Update guys. Yesterday I decided I wanted to see the new short block in the engine bay and to check on clearences. Well, I've hit two snags. One is minor, the other is pretty serious. The minor one is the very front of the oil pan hits the steering rack. I can fix that with a few wacks with a dead-blow hammer though. The serious is one is the headers. I'll need to check one more time, but it doesn't look like they are going to work after all. So its got me digging through the catalogs seeing what I can come up with. Sanderson makes a cast iron header that only sticks out 3" from the head, which is pretty tight. The big downside is that they are $450+ to my door. Plastic? I wish. I originally I used a cracked 454 block to mock things up.

Well guys, I've got a new job and finally have enough time to get the project_bbz going again. I've edited my first post on this topic with the most current info. I have also listed the changes here: First off I've changed my head selection. Instead of going with those big rect port heads I scored a nice set of factory oval port heads (casting 049). These things have some serious money and work done to them and haven't been run since. Aside from cutting the heads for 2.19/1.88" valves, the valve pockets have been opened and mildly ported. Bronze guides have been installed and the guides have been machined for PC seals. The chambers around the valves has been unshrouded too. S/S valves came with the heads and a 5 angle valve job has been performed. Otherwise they are bare. Because of the head port change I sold the rect port Performer RPM and bought a slightly used (dyno time only) oval port Performer RPM Air-Gap intake. I also bought a used Holley 650 cfm double pumper and a Proform main-body. After adding the main body the carb will flow 800-830-850 cfm. My cam just got here today, its a solid flat-tappet Lunati (UltraDyne design) and is smaller than my first selection due to my limited valve to piston clearence. Even so I'll still have loads of power. I'll have the cam in by tomorrow, along with the timing set, oil pump, timing cover, oil pan, and the balancer. The rest of the valvetrain will be here on Monday or Tuesday and then I'll be able to slap the heads together and bolt them on to the finished short block. Sometime this week I'll get over to the local Chevy dealer to get some tranny seals I need to stop a leak from the front pump seal. While I am at it I figured I might as well replace a few more common leaking seals. I'll also be installing a Trans-Go Stage II Shift-Kit before everything is buttoned back up. I was given slightly used Trans-Specialities 10" 3000 RPM Stall converter a few months ago. It will work for the time being until I can afford a ATI or Coan converter. I also scored a set of Crower Stainless Steel Roller Rockers today for about a quarter of the price new. Hopefully I'll have them by next weekend. I want to build a run-in stand within a week or two so I can break in the cam and fix any leaks before the motor goes it the car. Plus when I put the heads together I am only installing the outer valve springs as suggested by the cam designer to aid in an easier cam break-in. After the cam is broke in, I'll use compressed air to allow me to remove the spring and retainer assembly to add the inter valve springs and spring dampers. If everything goes to plan, I should have it moving under its own power by the middle of August. For the time being I will continue to use the existing exhaust I had made for the 383 sbc. I will also continue using the stock R200 rear diff and the stock fuel lines with the Holley 'Black' fuel pump I added for the 383 sbc. This will be enough to get the car moving, but not for racing. The next phase in the project is to get my R230 installed, then a new fuel system including aluminum fuel cell, 1/2" fuel line, and a Aeromotive electric fuel pump. Then I'll have a new dual 3" exhaust (w/X-pipe) bent up with Dynomax UltraFlo round mufflers exiting on each side of the roll pan. Lastly I am having a 10 or 12 point roll cage installed. After these mods I'll be ready for some racing. I'll see about taking some pics for you guys.

Thanks for confirming that for me dude!! Though, I wished I was wrong.....

You might be right, I just thought that the mounting holes were spaced differently on the R230 vs the Q45 R200. I can measure the stud spacing on my R230 (center of one stud to the center of the other, if some could measure their Q45 R200's.

Oops, double post.

Oh yes...... No I haven't got it running though. I switched from the Pro Topline RECT port heads to stock GM oval port heads with a nice bowl and pocket clean up after the seats and throats were cut for 2.19/1.88" stainless valves. I also bought a Edelbrock Air-Gap intake. I have one more credit card to pay off and then I can order my custom cam and other misc odds and ends, then I can put the whole thing together. I am still debating if JTR's radiator kit intended for SBC conversions is going to be enough to cool this beast. So, right now I am looking at a universal 25x18" radiator that is a two row w/1.5" tubes. Then I'll have to heli-arc two 90* brackets to mount it to the stock core support. I am also still working on how I am going to fit an engine driven fan between the water pump (LWP) and radiator. I might have to break down and run a electric fan (or two) again. After I get it running I will be running the stock R200 (open, 3.54 gears) for the time being (no hard launches). My roomie is an awesome fab/welder and has agreed to modify the existing mustache bar and help me install my R230 (vlsd 3.69 gears) when I can afford the MMS stub axle mods and Moser axles. Then I have promised my wife that I will not race the car until a full 10 or 12 point chrome-moly cage (w/halo) has been installed. Oh the joy..........

Anyone have an update on a R230 version?

Any idea what that's going to cost?

Got pics of them installed? Thanks!!

What are you looking for? R200 open (easy to find), R200 vlsd (uncommon, found in Q45's and non-turbo '90-'96 300zx), or R230 vlsd (rare, '90-'96 300zx turbo)?

Doesn't look like I will fit everything under the stock hood, so a MSA cowl hood maybe in order. I still haven't verified if the headers will work or not. I decided to go ahead and do everything right and the TH350 is getting BUILT and a chrome-moly 10 point roll cage is getting installed in the Spring. Otherwise everything was good to go, but the wife got laid off yesterday so now the car is on hold....again. I also need to buy another digital camera, the last one was lost in the move from Hanford to Bakersfield last May. The move itself also put the car on hold, if its not one thing its another..... No worries guys, I'll keep you posted.

Speaking from experence, its not as easy as the SBC 383 I first installed, but it works. Click the link in my sig for more info....

Where did he get his 3.5" stainless muffler?

Sounds nuts, but if you are skinny enough and you have a local Nissan dealer, you can always just go to the dealer, tell the you want to see the frame or something and crawl under it and count them yourself. Just a thought. Hope it helps.

As far as I know you are required to use the R200 bar to make it work with the R230 (currently doing the swap myself). Of course I've never used a R180 myself, but I think I remember reading about guys making the switch from a R180 to R200 and mentioning that they needed the matching bar.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98860 Those are the details of my 454 swap.

Any idea how much it would cost to ship to Bakersfield, Ca. 93309?