Dan Juday

zbot is correct, that diagram is wrong. The motor will run with both winding energized. It wont run any faster but it will run hotter. Heat is what kills electric motors. The horse power ratings on electric motors are directly tied to the heat they are safely able to run at. You don't need to spend any more money to wire it up correctly. Both ways require two relays. I don't know how long the motor will last with both circuits energized, I'm not willing to test it with my motor, but it will certainly be less than if you wire it correctly.

What they said. Hey, welcome to California! You'll love it. Monterey is one of the most beautiful spots in the whole state. Just make sure you bring several big bags of money!

Actualy, it looks like a tool for adjusting the old style V belts. That "claw" looks like it is a type of universal accessory grabber. Then you use one of the two bars to tension the belt. Just a guess.

If you decide to do the LT1/T56 you should be able to do it in about half the time you estimated. I did it in a little over two months working every weekend on it. On the dollar side I seriously doubt the LT1 will cost you any less though. All those little things add up fast.

You did well! Those motors are worth at least $700 each if they are complete.

Welcome to hybrid Defuse. What jmead is suggesting is using the search feature. It really will be a wonderful help. Much has be discussed on this subject. Short answer: no kits, yes it has been done (very short list though), many challenges. Do a search, read up. Best way to get up to speed fast.

Welcome to hybrid Rod. The M22 (or is it the 21?) is a tough tranny but have you considered a 5 speed, or even a 6 speed? Of course, it depends what you are going to do with the car, but for hyway crusing an overdrive tranny makes life much nicer in the Z car.

Guys, please don't mount those mechanical fuel pressure guages inside your cars, especially at FI pressures. A line failure could be catastrophic. Yes, the electric ones are way more expensive, but nothing compares to a cabin fire. At FI pressures it would be a blow torch.

Looks custom to me. Can you get a good shot of the motor mounts? Funky radiator position.

Alex, calm down. There are plenty of times I wanted to tell you off but I've restrained myself. Why don't you go out and emotionally warp another friends child. I'm sure you'll feel better after that. J.K.

Definitly has two. The older tpi motors had one. And congrats on your find. '95 is the most desirable model year for the swap.

David's right on the money about 911 on a cell. I was on a job in Oakland when I noticed a building on the same block with puffs of smoke coming out a window. I was on the roof and called 911 immediately on my cell. Twenty minutes later the phone was still ringing but the building was engulfed.

I would talk to Ross Corrigan. He's a great guy and really knows his stuff on Z car brake upgrades. sales@modern-motorsports.com

Just an FYI, you don't have to delete the VATS if you don't want to. All you have to do is include the VATS box (about the size of a pack of cigarettes) in the harness and and solder in a resistor of the same value as the pellet in your key. You can even have the resistor on a plug that you can remove when leaving the car. This way you retain the same security feature the Camaro came with.

I wouldn't let the availability of an aftermarket harness decide your motor for you, JMHO. If you want to do the 351 EFI then do it. The stock harness is usually free with the motor, unlike the Painless harnesses that are only "painless" after you pay for them. $$ $$ I've done two EFI swaps (Chevy, not Ford) and both times, with two different EFI's, I've used the stock harness. You buy the factory manual and just start deleting circuits you dont need one at a time. It's not that hard and you will get an education on your motor that is worth many times the cost of an aftermarket harness. The 351 is a bad MoFoCo mill and EFI is the way to go. Hey, everybody's got a 5.0, right? Go for the displacement, there IS no replacement.

Good for you buddy! Wish I could make it, maybe next time.

Your yoke should be about 3/4" from bottoming out in the tranny. The way to measure is to push the yoke in all the way and then pull it back out 3/4". If you have more than 1 1/4" I'd get it resized.

Yes you are correct. If you have the time scan some of the 19 (ugg) pages of this thread and you will run across a photo shopped pic of my car before paint with the lights digitaly graphed in. The actual install was a little more complicated. In the end, the entire rear panel from the hatch down and from fender to fender was replaced or covered with new metal panels, formed, welded in place, and finished without a seam. I take credit only for the design. The majority of the work was done by Mach Autobody of Sacramento.

I found a great controller. Here is a thread on it. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21495&highlight=

About 20 years ago I saw a BBC in a 510. Set-back was pretty severe. The carb sat right below the base of the windshield. It was an autocross car. There were a couple of really nice ones at MSA this year. Modern Nissan turbo four motors swapped in. Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with them to tell there designation. For the record: the sedans had an IRS, the wagons had a live axle.

Sorry guys, but only the close up, or close cropped shots look good when you're still missing door handles, all the glass, headlights, the list goes on. Be patient, I worked on it some today. Another week or two and it will be presentable enough for a full body shot.

I broke my project up into "stages", i.e. : motor swap, interior, body, suspension. I made rules for myself as well. I didn't buy parts for, or work on another stage untill the one I was working on was done. There were certain exemptions to the rule. If a particular part was need from a future stage to finish the one I was on that was ok. Or, if a fire sale deal fell in my lap for a part for a future stage I would buy it. Other wise I stuck to the rule. This helped me stay motivated and kept me from getting overwelmed. It also helped to combat "scope creep" and spending too fast. Two dreaded symdromes that can kill a project (and your relationship with the little lady). And don't be in a hurry. I'm approching the three year mark and it has all been good. Others here have taken much longer. The joy is in the journey, not the destination.

You've got a good shot at it Nick. Alex has been hanging around with DavyZ a lot and you know how that stuff kind of rubs off.

Very nice Terry. What a differance a small change can make. Like you, I was inspired by a PhotoShopped pic that came up on this thread. I'm sure everyone here has seen it already, but here is a shot of the (almost) finished product. Picture taken by Jon Miwa a.k.a. Jumbo240ez

Ross is great. Bought my coilovers from him. He helped me with info on brakes. Was there with help when I ran into a problem helping a friend with his coilovers. The guy is more than professional. He's like a car bud.