Dan Juday

Sorry Blackie, I missed your post. Yes, I do.

Just offering up some observations on the ZX. Pluses: Nissan was farther up the learning curve on chassis design and manufacturing techniques. Started with a clean slate (new body style) to work with. Nissan knew this car was going to get more power from the turbo motor. Minuses: '79 was first year of the new body, untested in real world. Weight is higher, more mass to throw around stressing the body. Longer wheel base and wider track means greater twisting leverage on the body. I think ultimately you need to talk with the guys that have and drive their ZX's, i.e. Dave Greimann. Dave has no frame reinforcements that I know of other than some well executed strut bracing, and this, I believe, is a recent addition. He has driven this car for several years with the V8 and, to my knowledge, has had no problems with twiting or cracking of the body. Dave, am I right? Someone else who might shed some light is John Washington. He sells Daytona Spyder kits for the ZX. I wonder what, if any, frame reinforcement he recommends when you cut the top off one. Paging Dr. Greimann, Dr. Washington.

Fill the fenders with helium balloons.

Helm Inc. writes the manuals for GM. Call them at 1-800-782-4356 and give them the info on your donor car, your address, and your Visa, $90-$120. Yes, I know very well that's a lot of money. It has all the info you will need in it though, and you will need a lot. Without it I could not have done my tpi swap and I just ordered another one for an LT1 swap. If you ever need to troubleshoot a problem in the future you will need it then too. So, (very politely) I will not loan it to you when I'm done.

$1500 is absolutely doable. For the motor that is, not the complete swap. Complete LT1's with all accessories, harness and computer can be had for that. T56's go from $1200 to $1600.

Hey Ernie? You're being paged!

Thanks Mike. I'll check out Hookers web page. No offence taken Tim. I did do a search. There was much talk of LT1's and the 280ZX swap but not a definite answer to the fit in a 1st gen Z, unless I missed something (very posible). I have read that straight plug blockhuggers will work with angle plugs if you change your wires to 90* boots. And they clear the steering shaft just fine as this is what I have on my car. But I would like the better port match and more room for the plugs that the angle plug headers offer.

Hey guys, I need a definitive answer on this. Does anyone make angle plug D port blockhuggers that clear the steering shaft on a 280Z in the JTR position? I need to hear from you LT1 guys.

Thanks Mike. I'm sure it's a fine piece, but for that price you can argue for a new speedo AND tach. Of course, if you can't get your new speedo to work...

Anybody using a 3/4" bore with success? I have a nearly new Tilton unit that I tried with my T5. You must use a 7/8" with the T5, but I seem to recall that some of you guys are using the 3/4" with the T56.

T56 that is. What brand and size clutch master cylinder did you use with the stock T56 slave? Van, you out there?

What converter is this?

18 lbs. with the rubber gasket. The rear glass that is. The windshield weighs 25 lbs. Like the guys say, the hatch itself is much lighter.

Help me out guys. Shouldn't you have right hand threads on the left side and left hand threads on the right side? Get them reversed and a big burn out will unscrew your wheels. On the other hand heavy braking could do the same thing, right? Or does it matter since they have pins that keep the wheels from spinning? Well, I guess I don't know. Never had a car with knock-offs but they sure look cool. 8)

bump?

Thanks Mike. Does anyone know if these clear the steering shaft on a 280Z?

If you want to be a rebel that's fine, but I prefer to learn from other peoples misstakes, it's cheaper and easier. The hydraulic thowout bearing is a great way to go, but the jtr way works fine too and is cheaper. If you have the T5 slave already all you need is a Tilton or Howe 7/8" master , a steelbraided line, and a few parts from the hardware store. Oh, and the jtr book for instructions.

I know your frustration Joe. I've been working on mine for over two years. I've never really had a budget, well, maybe before I started. I just try to do all I can to save on everything I buy for the car. Now that it's in the bodyshop (#2 ) all I can do is visit on Saturdays and watch the progress. Stick with it bro. I want to see that car at next years Rio Vista meet.

No problem. Phantom used a duel fan from another car or the aftermarket. Find a fan and here is a thread I posted about a nice adjustable thermostatic controller that will operate one or two fans or one two speed fan with an extra relay wired in. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21495&highlight=

7th edition JTR, 1999, no longer recommends it. Like all the hot shots here, they now say to go T56 if you are pushing more power than a T5 can handle. The Corvette tranny is heavy, bigger (more "clearancing"), needs a separate oil cooler, heavy shifting, and parts are harder to get now that Doug Nash is out of business.

I have to disagree with Alex (Gee, never done that before ). I think the late 280's are signifcantly stronger than the early 240's. Rory Bateman cut's the tops off them for his Tomahawks and adds NO reinforcements. I don't recommend that but I think it is a testamony to how much Nissan learned during the the 1st gen run.

I don't have a rear bar on my car so, like you, just off the top of my head I would think you could add a spacer (just a flat bar with two holes) to the bottom of the front bar mounts. Don't go too far, just enough to clear the diff.

Well, not exactly. I had seen posts about how you can buy a cheap set of door locks for your Z ($25) just by ordering '81 Maxima locks. Cool. I need new locks and a set of old junk yard locks sounded bad (pre-worn out) and $300+ from MSA is more than I will spend and more than I need (comes with ignition switch and hatch too). So off to Napa I go. $40 for part# DLK110, two door locks, two keys, all I need. Not $25 but still very reasonable. Now do they fit? Let me start by saying my car is a '73. If you have a different year your mileage may very. The answer is yes!.....and no. They drop right into the hole in the door perfectly, but the crank is longer and not offset like the originals. Yes, I tried to exchange the crank arms, no go, different design. "Well, let's see if that makes any difference." Yes it does. The longer crank pushes the rod attached to it into the handle mechanism. One more thing: The phasing of the swing of the crank (the part of the circle the crank actually swings in) is different too. Oh, boy. An hour and a half latter I got one to work. After removing the window glass and associated hardware so I could see what was going on I was able to come up with a solution. The lock crank is connected to a "dog leg" shaped rod that connects to the latch mechanism. Remove the rod from the door and straighten out the dog leg. Don't try to do this with the rod still attached to the latch. It is too easy to bend other stuff in there you don't want bent (ask me how I know). Straightening the rod allows it to clear the handle mechanism and sufficiently lengthens it to compensate for the difference in crank phasing. Put it back together and you're in business. Hope this helps anybody else in need of new door locks.

Looking good Tim. Get it done in time for next years Rio Vista meet. If Dave can make the haul so can you! Wish I had the talent for bodywork like you. Then I wouldn't have to pay someone else to do it. Picked a color yet?

You should have gotten an illustration that gives a dimension from the top of the strut tube to the top of the new perch (the ring you weld on that the threaded collar rests on). If not e-mail Ross Corrigan and have him send it to you. Even if you didn't buy them from Ross he will help. I had to completely remove my old perches, grinding off the weld bead, so the collar could slip down past them.