Dan Juday

I'm about to give up and start writing letters again. Tried to login today only to be returned to the login page over and over again in an endless loop. This has happened to me before, often in the morning when I try to check the site before leaving for work. I don't have the time or patience at that time of day to pursue it. I just grumble and remember the good old days (read: the old site) when this never happened and I didn't get logged off and the site would remember me and I would not have to log back in every ten minutes. Yes I know it's a run-on but I'm typing fast so I can get this in before I get logged off again. (GRRRR) Well tonight I tried for about ten times and no luck. Left it alone for about an hour and still no luck. I finally got on after checking my cookies for the nth time, yes, they are enabled, and out of frustration I deleted my hybrid cookies and said no more! Well that worked, or maybe the moon moved 2 degrees while I was doing it and I just didn't notice. Anyways I am very close to saying the hell with it. Can someone who REALLY knows what they're doing seriously look into this SOON.

John's your man.

Who ARE you?!? Beautiful work. I was blown away when I saw your drip rails. Fabulas, original, creative.

Not tring to be argumentative, but why would the return have air in it? Were would it come from. I can understand that some people could argue that the return should not be near the supply because of fuel warming or creating turbulance near the supply, but where's the air?

Sorry I can't help you directly. But what motor is this? An L6? You might want to repost this in the Datsun L6 forum. I would think that the bore in the crank should not change. Auto trans don't use that hole so it shouldn't matter. Bass Lake California? I've been there. Beautiful area. Use to sail up at Huntington lake.

Doesn't sound all that bad to me. I just asked a yard that I trust and got a similar price. Shipping will kill you though. What state was this one you found in?

SubtleZ. Reaction Research a.k.a. John Washington Great quality, professional outfit, not cheap: $1450 for four fenders and an airdam. Check out his site. http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html John has other offerings for the Z as well.

I did mine in aluminum and I'm glad I did. I used the original rubber mounts, just drilled them out bigger. It was a pain on my back with dirt falling in my face but I would have never gotten it done with stainless. It would have looked just like Jeromio's pile. I did it with the tranny, engine, rearend, and driveshaft in. I think even if you buy the pre-bent stuff you would have to remove the driveshaft at least. If you're thinking there's a V8 in your future use 3/8" supply and return.

Well the opitimum setup would be to have baffles around or over your sump. Don't know what the internal construction of your cell is but even an open interior should be fine with a sump. By plumbing your return into the sump it will essentially "re-fill" the sump. Just don't run too low on gas and you'll be fine Stoney.

I have a very similar setup. I have the f-body T5 using the converted plastic slave cylinder and an oem Luk clutch package. The FIRST master cylinder I had was a tilton 3/4". It was too small and did not move enough fluid into the slave to disengage the clutch. After consulting with the folks here I changed to a 7/8" and everything worked fine. That explaines why your clutch doesn't disengage but it doesn't explaine why your pedal pressure is too high.

That's the way to do it Stony. Supply and return both into the sump.

E-mail Ross Corrigan a.k.a. Modern Motorsports. He's the expert. I'm sure he can help.

This mess is spreading like SARS.

If it were me I'd punt. Better to spend $2500 on good car to begain with IMHO. The guy to ask is Pete P.

A quick way to tell if a 280 in a yard has an R180 or an R200 bar is to check if the bar runs in front of or behind the vertical suspension supports. In front (between the vertical supports and the diff) = R180. Behind = R200.

Tons of small parts. Hoses, hardware, wire, clamps, switches, on and on. And yes, no room for that mechanical fuel pump. If you are going carb though the Datsun pump will do. Also, you may want to reconsider the TH350. An OD tranny will be much more satisfying.

This is my problem as well. Happened right after I logged into the old albums page. I have to log in everytime now and get logged off if I walk away from my machine for too long. Cleared my cookies, enabled cookies, click the remember me button, swear at the machine, nothing works. I have IE 5.1 for Mac. Help, this sucks.

You be Kung Fu fightin' ready bro. WAX ON! WAX OFF!

They bond to the sheetmetal but you need to cut out your wheel wells to take advantage of the extra space for the big tires. Take a look below.

Welcome to Hybrid Phatz. Need a little more info. I take it this is in a V8Z and you're using a hydrulic set-up. What master and slave cyclinders are you using?

Now hold on guys. Lets not dismiss this so quickly. After all, hybridZ is about helping the other guy. And this poor guy's got rusty fiberglass! Ok, there is that little inconsistancy about fiberglass being a non-ferris... uh substance. But let's explore the posibilities. He did say this was just surface rust. Maybe it's painted with some really, really, really, metallic paint? That's it! It's got to be the paint. Sand it off and repaint it. There, problem solved. Who's next?

Pisssst. Here's the real conspiracy: No matter which one you pick they all come out of the same tank.

Ok, this is probably the same part JTR includes in their kit. They say you need a 2.25" diameter pilot hole in the end of your pinion. They say the '70-'78's had this size and some later diffs had a 2.00" pilot. Also note that the size and type of bolt you use is important. You want to use a grade 8 or better bolt with a smooth shank (unthreaded) where the flanges meet. With the twisting pressure on the bolt a thread will act like a deep score on the bolt and will be prone to failure. As advised by my driveline man, I used a 5/16x24x1 5/8" cut down to 1 1/8" to get that smooth shank. Use grade 8 nuts and lock washers AND locktite. You should have no problems. 8)

Ok, this is probably the same part JTR includes in their kit. They say you need a 2.25" diameter pilot hole in the end of your pinion. They say the '70-'78's had this size and some later diffs had a 2.00" pilot. Also note that the size and type of bolt you use is important. You want to use a grade 8 or better bolt with a smooth shank (unthreaded) where the flanges meet. With the twisting pressure on the bolt a thread will act like a deep score on the bolt and will be prone to failure. As advised by my driveline man, I used a 5/16x24x1 5/8" cut down to 1 1/8" to get that smooth shank. Use grade 8 nuts and lock washers AND locktite. You should have no problems. 8)

It didn't come from Japan like that. It may have been sold new with it though. From the 60's through the 80's it was a popular thing for Dealerships to send a new car out for a custom vinyl top so they would have a car on the lot that was different from all the other dealers. The bad news is that rust loves to grow under them. I've heard stories where the owner peels off the vinyl only to discover the roof is so badly rusted the only repair is cut it off and graft on a new one. Oh ya. Welcom to Hybrid.