buZy

Ok more pics of fuel cell brace and motor. seats belts and int are next on Z list. hope these pics make it in. http://hybridz.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=384&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

71' 240Z 327 Chevy, long tube headers, stock hood, T-56 six speed, R-200, alum tub frame fuel cell, true dual exhaust. scca 4 point bar. Viper Blue GTS with Altec products headlight covers. I just finished the body work and was waiting all summer to show it here on this most exelent site. What do you think? Hope I loaded the photos right.

Well everyone I got the motor run properly. All said and done it was my msd adjustable timing box that was the problem. After installing the new dist, coil, wires , plugs and rewiring/checking the ingition circit I had no spark. So I rewired again this time without timing box in the loop and bingo, it ran great on just the msd 6AL. It's almost too fast now!....well almost. Once again, Thanks for all your input and help. scumdog of the universe.

liberal loser on the attack vegetarian piss in a glass horn rimmed, army boots, with a dress says americas such a stupid mess you would protest my bowl movement

Take Note- Everyone! Today is a proud day in America! For we the people can get elections done... and move on with life. I salute and respect John Kerry for not going on trying dragging things out. I also have now come to notice now more than ever how heartless and BIAS our media has become. To them this slap in your face..... is well deserved.

Yup electrical! So I ordered up a new msd mech adv distributor #85551 blaster coil and new 8mm plug wires. Next rewire the msd 6AL igintion. With my luck that will need replacing too. My mechanic friend said the mallory unilite distributor I had doesn't work well with my msd adj spark timing control #8680. I found that kinda hard to belive, but took his word for it. The old unit was worthy of wear it appered and IF it needed repair might as well replace it with matching components. A drop in Z bucket at this point. By this time next week i will have that stuff installed and will let you all know what happed.

Thanks for all the information everyone! Well after pulling out my hair for days trying to find the problem I took the car to a friends shop. Put the engine on the ingition scope and found the ignition was all over the place. Wasn't even close. Problem found. I know now its either the dist, the msd6AL or the wiring configuration. So I download the ignition instructions from msd and going through that now. Then it goes back on the ignition scope for a final check. He said my motor is good and strong. The bore scope showed I do have domed pistons and should be running race gas. He also said due to the ignition errors it's down about 100HP! Oh my god! I thought this car was fast before! Cant wait to wake up! I'll keep you all posted! Brian

This is not a new motor. The carb I am running is a Holly 4150 650cfm. I dont know the jet size yet. The guy I bought the car from a guy who didnt know much and just installed it new. The car is a 71 240z. All New Fuel lines size is 3/8 with AN #8 fittings typical. The pump new . Malloy 110 comp, New filter high flow filter which exceeds the pump flow. Mallory unilite dist with vaccum advance. MSD 6 series ignition. The vacuum tap is a drilled fitting in the intake below the carb. Performer rpm intake and maybe cam. Engine runs out good to 6500 max. Do I try the vacuum reading while driving or in static neutral? I hope not it's valves or a broken spring, engine seems quite basically, No real loud noises. Im trying the easy stuff first before pulling valve covers and or wasting money etc. I'm hoping its carb or dist. I know I can take the dist to a speed shop and have it tested but if thats fine how do I ballpark my jetting. Does anyone know the basic jet size for that carb and engine?

My sbc 327 cuts out under loaded power. When I go into the secondaries the engine starts to stubble around 4000 rpms plus. Other than that starts and runs reliable. So far I checked the compression and float bowl levels changed the spark plugs cap and rotor but that didnt seem to help too much. Any thoughts on what I should check next would be a great help. Thanks!

My 69 327 in my 71 Z starts to cut out pretty hard when i get into or close to the mechanical secondaries at higher rpms. Also it won't hold a steady smooth rpm at part throttle crusing at an even road speed. When driving the car a very slight jerky feeling and with that an exhaust missing note that comes in and out. The car has a cam with a rougher idle but should still run/drive smooth around 3000 rpms or even slightly higher or lower. Right? My redline is 6500 rpm. Any thoughts? Tonight pulled the plugs and did a compression check. All cylinders are very good. With in 5 lbs of each other at a 160 psi average. Will replace the plugs (NKG V-Power BCPR5EY) with new ones tomorrow with an .035 gap. Changed the cap and rotor brand new pieces too. The fuel system is all new from tank to carb fittings. My carb is a Holley 4150 650cfm in almost new condition too. Fuel pressure 6psi at carb. Plug wires and ends look ok upon close inspection too. Anything else I should be looking for? Thank you. Brian

bottom side

Glass Hood Picture

Sounds like you will have enough clearance with your 14' air cleaner. But for what its worth I have a early Z hood here I am willing to part with. It will fit a 4 inch high 14' element no problem. Metal skin was removed, Fiberglass bonded to the stock structure. Will take stock spring latch. I didn't build it. It's a unigue piece I have never seen one like it. Honestly its not perfect. It has a stress crack in the paint along the front about a foot long. Also sits a bit high in the rear windshield corners due to the fact the glass is much thicker than the typical metal hood. Other than its fault its pretty nice. If you want it or know some who does let me know. Brian.

Wheels... 4 lug or 5 lug it doesnt matter these days. Tons of custom wheel manufactures out there. You can get everything in almost any size and custom made easy. My 1971 401 4spd AMC Javelin AMX I had wheels made at $300 a piece. Good price for sweet perfect billet rims that fit you would only dream of a few years ago. The wheel market has made leaps and bounds. An example would be http://www.coloradocustom.com/

The brakes I have now came with the car when I bought it. They have worked well for building and getting the car running but that's it. I know better not to even try to make them work on a road course. So yes it's a matter of time and reasearch learning untill I do a complete ugrade. My question is who offers such kits besides Arizona Z car? And how well does the Arizona Z car brakes actually perform? Would enjoy hearing from someone who actually has used this kit in real life exteme conditions. Brian

I have seen much talk here on high performance braking options. I have also seen and like the Arizona Z Car set up. What else is out there as far as these kits? Or what other options are there? My 71' hybrid has 4x4 toyota 4 piston calipers up front with stock crossdrilled rotors. I believe they are the Motorsports kit. Stock drums still in back. Just fine for the street only. Car has the 4-lug stock hubs and 17 inch alum wheels. Any suggestions info or websites? Thanx! Brian

Nothing a bunch of TNT wouldn't take care of. hehe

Looking Good!

Oh that is so sad..... I know the feeling all to with with previous projects. Thats a SWEET 71' 240Z too..... They are getting hard to find and don't even exist anymore where I live in Minnesota winters. Please try to keep it or take more time to think about it. If you have to sell it everyone has seen the history of the work you have done here. Thats worth much $$$ when buying one of these V8 cars. So everyone take note.... .someone here will benifit a great deal of knowing the owner... and History of this car! But on top of all of that again I would hate to see it go.

For those who like heavy punk music check our my website. http://www.scumpump.com/

That is a sweet conversion!

Hmmm. I'm keeping my eyes on this thread. Maybe I'll try one of those. I'm the guy with the failed Malloy 110 comp pump. But I would also like to see something that would work more with a typical carburated 327 as well.

Hey I did it!

Hey Terry, Got your mail and sent you a responce on your DS set-up. Hey thats.. My car! Cool! Thanks for the help with the pics. I got it close but not quite. Here I'll try again on this post. About the my fuel pump....I couldn't tell how loud it was or what it sounded liked before/during faliure. My exhaust mufflers are too loud to even here the Mallory pump which was my goal really as the other 'blue' holley pump was quite loud. As far as crap in my pump my fuel cell is clean and worked fine with the old pump. I have a filter before the pump so I cant see that being clogged either. I should add I have not jacked up the car yet but will be doing so. The pump is seized so I think it failed somehow and not just the case of not getting fuel to it.

I just got my Z running after doing a ton of work. In short through it all I intalled a brand new electric Mallory 110 Comp Fuel Pump- Non regulated type. Yesterday out testing my ride the engine stopped right in the middle of traffic. It was a bad scence! Well I got the car home in one piece somehow and found out my new pump had seized up. No way. I thought this things is brand new with less than an hour on it and it failed. When I supply 12 volts to it, it just humms like the motor wont turn and then blows the in line fuse of course. My questions to you all is. Are these pumps garbage? It looked like a nice unit and cost me a 140 bucks. Is it the rotor pump or motor that failed? Has anyone else experienced any similar failures with these mallory pump? Any help or input would be great. P.S. I'm trying to post a test picture here of my Z so I hope it works Brian[imhttp://hybridz.org/nuke/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/18552/thumb_240z%7E0.jpgg]