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I fixed mine using Petes pages. They are exelent! Had to lower the pinion of the r-200. Created Petes mount from up on top. Tack welded in car for fit only, just used his dimensions to fab the parts. ....But then took the stock lower 240z x-member cut and created an iso/rigid mount. Trapping the pinion from top.. and bottom. I could post pic if you want. Trans x- member custom fit. M-bar spent the 2 bills for the AZ car piece with no mods needed. The old ones to me always looked saggy for a V8 and move around too much. This was all done after locating the angles in the car. Parallel planes with running driveshafts angles of 1 to 2 degrees. Horz and vert. For me measuring the horz was harder. Used strings with plumb bobs down to the floor (home depot). Its worth the effort because you can get it as smooth as glass.

Did you take apart the rack?? It's very easy to do. Make sure the actual rack and pinion gears are well greased, inspected and then re-set up properly for wear. Please correct me if I am wrong, but think I remember you can adjust the preload gear lash to get just the right wear action and smoothness. I did this to fix the rough feel in the steering with the car on jacks. As far as steering wheel sizes go mine is a 13 inch outside diameter. Too small my tastes, but still the steering action is free and smooth. So it tells me something else is going on here? I hope this helps.

This site is so awesome and a wealth of knowledge. I feel honored to be here. Thumbs up!

Ok. No, I have not tried removing anything in the strut assembly. Figured I would post here first and already glad I did! Thanks Dan you most likely just saved me from doing damage to my struts. Rebuilding the whole front suspension and just want to update them the best I can. Don't know much about this particular strut replacement process... or options available?? Is it just the 'inside' cartrige I am replacing then and not the whole strut itself? If so or how... Is it then possible to replace that inside cartrige with a gas compression unit, with adjustable oil rebound dampening?

Sweet! So I see it is possible to measure the bumpsteer. I would measure if it was all out racing but i'm just running the street scene. It seems whatever this distace raising the LCA pivot does help. Thanks everyone!

Hey everyone, While I am at......... Any advise on what is a sure fire easy method of removing the strut from the lower strut housing? Those stock struts are fried! Thanks!

Ok I see your point as where the steering outside tie rod end should on the same horz plane as the LCA pivot. So with that said how much can lower my front end as to how much I raise the LCA pivot? Maybe this question is nonsence. Im just looking for a good ball park distance to move the LCA pivot up. Or how they relate to each other with given ride heights. Like I said before there is no way I can easliy measure my bumpsteer or my true pivot locations to the car.

I can't measure my bumpsteer too easily but see your point. So anywhere from a half to .875? I have heard of others going to even 1 inch! ......hmmmm??? What would be a good number general distance to use for my application? How about .600? Very spirted street use. Also I will be using the AZ zcar front control arms. Thanks!

That motor does sound wicked indeed!!.... For what it's worth. I'm running the race flowmasters on the street. Everyone hears me coming. (hehe!) A bit loud maybe, but it sounds so sweet at idle and gets the looks. The cops have not busted me yet but they sure do notice. If I stay out of the throttle its really not a problem.

Here we go. K-member removed tonight. It went smooth and easy. Here is a picture in the parts washer. Next I will do the required repair. In the photo you can see the extra small hole drilled for the MSA v8 motor mount typical..... The mount plate will be VERY close to the new raised pivot hole bolt. I will have to trim the motor mount corner to clear it....... .........I sure hope relocating the pivots straight .875 up is the way to go here for running a lower suspension set-up......... Wish me luck! I'll Need it!

Sweet Ride! Any ideas on top speed too? Something tells me its fast! I saw the video of it posted here a few months ago, thought it was maybe a fake. Guess I was very wrong indeed!

Thanks Jeff and everyone for the help. What seemed like a nightmare at first should now be a straight forward task to tackle. I'm way fired up on relocating the LCA pivots. I'll keep everyone posted on my progess after yanking the K-member this weekend.

Hey John thanks! So ok I could the remove the member without pulling the motor. That's good news! I'm not set on stock ride heights and would like to lower my front end but only a bit really. I dont know much about suspension angles (im leanring fast though) but rasing the LCA pivot in the car would result in more positive camber? Something would have to be affected by the modification of the LCA pivot.

Ok Move the pivot?... What does that do?.... And just where exactly? That would change the camber and suspension angles? Requiring what to compensate? I thought losing that hole location would be the last thing I would want to do. Hmmmmm.... So I have to pull out the motor and everything..... just to fix this this? Using a longer bolt could I not just TIG in some thick .125 plate type washers on the outsides of both sides of the crossmember and rework the hole? If I pull out the rack and pinion I should have enough room to work the area. Thanks Everyone!

After further study this is what I found.... The LCA pivot very worn on the driver side. Ouch, Help! What would be a good solution to fixing this problem? Thanks!

Bingo!

Drill it out and go the next size thread up. I did it once on an old sbc pick-up truck. It worked geat and was easy to do.

What is the specified outside diameter of a stock OEM 1971 240z front tire? Thanks!

Well Clive you like cars. Build one and document what problems you tackled thoughly in depth. Create a detailed portfolio of some kind. Look into areas you know nothing about at all. Be vulnerable. Do your own internship. It shows way more leadership skills and true loyal passion beyond just having a degree like everyone else. You can study and try many things... and with out spending a lot of money. For ten years I have worked the motorcycle biz as a designer. People who persue such outside projects, beyond being hobbies are what we always look for. Something different....Someone with passion... It wins out everytime.

I do want to lower my front end more if I can. As the rear is lower with these offset bushings with about 1 degree negative camber. So far they have been ok....I far from trust them now. Also forgot to add here, the owner before me had those alum bumpsteer spacers installed in the front. Should I delete those bumpsteer spacers and go back to stock and adjust my springs from there? It makes me wonder what height is the front end really.... based upon no bumpsteer spacers and my current tire diameter of 225/45Z/R17? What is the stock tire diameter on a 240z front??? If my tire diameter is greater than compared to stock, I would have to lower the springs even more to get basicly back to stock ride heights? I would prefer the lower diameter instead. If you lower the car a touch with springs and yet run the bumpsteer spacers, correct me if I am wrong, but would that not raise the ride height back up again? I'm new to this but these seem like another fake reality similar to the offset front end bushings.

Maybe this a another thread but.... What is LCA? ok (Lower Control Arm?) What is bumpsteer is its basic form? Do the tires change toe in angles when the wheels hit a bump? If so, why would any stock maufactured car have any of this built in? From my true lack of knowledge/understanding bumpsteer seems like somthing that should be eliminated so the wheels hold alignment while going over bumps. Or is a little bumpsteer good? I could go on forever on this subject as it is facinating!

Camber as to bumpsteer relationships... Wow! I must say you lost me there but what a very interesting conversation indeed! I'm learning.... Thanks everyone! After trail and errors.... I am going with a OEM replacement.

These offset bushings suck!!!! Tried installing them on my links and all I can say is.... What a joke! I'm not using these. Going to energy suspension polys instead. They are only 15 bucks from summit! The others were $69.95 and a waste of time and money. Man they saw me coming. Live and learn.

Something like this!

After trashing.........and painfully fixing the rear body fenders...... I am running 17 X 7 wheels all around. 4 1/2 back spacing. 4 1/2- 4 lug bolt pattern. Centerline, Billet Saber model #94 Tire size: 225/45Z/R17 This is the biggest tire I can run with out hitting the body or suspension before normal bottoming out occurs. When compressed at the rear I have about .43 inches of clearance to inside fender lip typical. I see it as this set up still leaves some inside room for alternative suspension settings in the future. Currently all stock suspension geometry with adjustable compression coilover springs. Stock rear hubs and brakes, Stock front hubs and rotors with Toyota 4X4 calipers. I hope this information helps you out.