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Yup I guess Hooker does still sell them. Here is the site. Just scroll down to datsun/nissan. Looks like they sell them ceramic coated too special order. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESHHSCH/EngSwap.html#Datsun

I have the msa mounts and long tube hooker headers, jet coated. They fit very well with no mods at all. Im not sure what header msa sells now for this kit though. Does anyone know if they sell the hooker ones? I suppose a call to them would answer that question.

How about a HANS device used now by nextell nascar? Could something like that be modified to work? Just another idea.

80LT1 where did you get those plates???? They look nice!

NOTE: THIS ARM DID NOT FAIL IN ANY WAY WHAT SO EVER! I just added some strength to it. These products are very first class stuff and in NO WAY am I trying make them look bad. Thanks for all your design help and great service! Brian

You did a great job Terry. Very creative and cool!

NOTE: THESE ARMS HAVE NOT FAILED OR BROKE IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM! After much discussion here and with many others I decided to add more stregth to these front arms. The fear was "MAYBE" the caster arm mounting tab .375 thick would break out from the very thin threaded tubing wall of less than .100 thick. Solution. Wrap the entire 1 inch tube with more 4130 chromemoly. The material tube size is 1.250 OD x .120 wall slit in half and machined to fit over the 1 inch tube. Cut an open slot for the caster tab and drilled a hole for the roll bar mount.

So very sorry... I didn't mean it to sound that way. I love these cars and whatever inspires you to dream and makes you happy is all that matters. Its all good. Please forgive me. Brian

I went with a T-56 six speed manual. Automatics work too... but to me they are kind of ...cheezy. All depends on your budget and what you want the car to do.

LOL Yea I failed trig. hehe.. Now I just use the handy CAD program. LOL I think the other member moved out .750 to better line up the LCA pivot with the rack pivot? Never bothered fully researching that option... and to what advantage. The only place I am racing to is.. the parts store. hehe Just raised the LCA .750 to lower the car, having the arms in a more natural stock position. A note, also using adjustable arms and upper camber plates which to me these options are needed to recorrect changes of the LCA relocation. I'm facinated with this subject as everyone always has a different approach.

I just did this LCA mod but went up .750 only. Maybe others move the pivots out who don't have adjustable arms to dial more negative camber? But yes to what degree do you end up with? Just a thought as I am sure there are other geometric reasons for this. Maybe that guy straighted those tie rod arms as to move the rod end ball joint outside more for a longer tie rod arm to thread into? Though straightening the arms I cant see picking up only a few threads if that. Just my 2 cents worth.

I have the AZC M-bar R-200. Works great. Solid with... no vibs. A must have for a V8 compared to the sagging stock units. Just my 2 cents worth.

Is that 8500? hehe..God that sounds good! Yee Haw! Sweet singin' 302!

Good idea. But before that do a quick check of your electrical ground connections with a test meter, it just maybe be something simple like a loose wire. It should also tell you if the switch has failed. If your fog lights are not stock... I would check those connections too.

Sweet Z Video!

I have the msa mounts and thought about running a mechanical fuel pump. In short I would say no way. There is just not enough room when you consider pump installation and or replacement in the car. Plus clearance for fittings, lines and engine movement. Go electric. Yes more work and hastle but I really don't see any other way.

Would cutting holes in the inside fender wells compromise structual integrity of the Z unibody? Due to the holes being very large and going through between the shock towers and firewall? I suppose its very possible with extra frame bracing. More weight for equal length headers and clearance trade off? How would one put the structure back in and where? On a road car with big front tires I would agree one might run into tight turning radius problems. If you are going that route might as well go all the way and run the tubs and Dana 60 for strip use.

Has anyone here ever done an older 351C swap?

Hey jeromio I think your zcar is cool. Keep going!

All the 280's do I think. Well I know for sure the 78 280 parts car in my driveway has one.

You could also Build a t-56 too. r-2oo i just swaped the diff,,,basicly. the rest is stock z

500 hp eats a t-56 and r 200 pretty easy i would think. how about a ford 9 inch?

Eat rice.. and top end! No problem! Go 383 5spd or get a T-56! R-200 is a good rear end swap. Cheaper... and way easier to install, and get smoooth. If you plan on something more serious fast the r230. I have seen guys do it so it's possible. They have my respect as it looks like a ton of custom design and fab skills. How long do you plan before you want to drive the finished car?

Recently picked up Thermo Arc 185 TSW TIG inverter. Does pulse and true square wave AC output. Works great. The max alum thickness I can weld properly is .187 without pre heating Cost $1100 demo unit. Also have a 110 volt Century MIG which does steel .187 max. If you ask me there is not one welder that will do everything. If you are just starting out I would go MIG unless you are already comfortable with a regular oxy/gas torch.