Hugh

It's a street tire class, as are most drag events in Japan. He's most likely running some size of Nitto 555R drag radials, as that is the tire of choice for those events. HKS was outlawing the BFGoodrich drag radials, something about them being unsafe or something. We thought it was a ploy to keep Japanese tires on the cars. (American DOT drag radials go a lot further than Nittos do) So that explains lack of traction and high ET's. Also, 700hp in Japan usually means 700hp estimated at the flywheel. Those are the numbers most of them throw around. As far as holding the car back in the burnout box, yup. Thats the way they do it. Thats how we did it in Okinawa, as well. The drag vids on my site show a lot of that.

I started a new thread on the MAP Enrich issue with snapshots: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=637331#post637331

I am running an SR20DET (2.0 liter) with a huge Infiniti Q45 throttle body. The throttle position sensor from the Q45 doesn't match the SR20DET connector, so for now I am trying to tune out the computer to compensate for it by using MAP sensor rate of change enrichment. Here's a snapshot of my Air/Fuel ratio datalog (sorry its not wired into the Tec3 right now, so you can just see A/F over time) I broke it down in sections to make it obvious whats going on. The Decel area stays at 16:1 or so because the DECEL cut of the injectors is also dependent on the TPS signal being closed. Since there is no TPS, it keeps pumping fuel on decel... resulting in some light popping. (not a problem) The fuel curve in the steady area is fine. I have not taken the time to fine tune it yet, just keeping it in the safe region. I'll get that straight later on. I'm just worried about the point where I punch the throttle, and it spikes to 25:1 for a moment. Here's a snapshot of my MAP enrich settings, its dependent on the highlighted box(ACE 6), as well as the time for variable time Accel enrichments (ACE 4) Any advice on how to set this to make it stop going super lean momentarily?

This car is in Okinawa, Japan, and it freaking FLYS. I believe it is carb'ed turbo with a REBIC or some sort of sub-injector controller on it. (you can see the subs there) Some of the drag videos on my site have this car in them. Right Click, Save As - DIVX Video (you need Divx to watch it)

I can't find them on his site. Do I need to email him or something? Thanks for all the help, guys!

Is it the Innovate Motorsports LM1?

Give me some time today to datalog whats going on, and I will send it to you. Hopefully we can get this thing nailed down, so I can beat on it without fear of blowing it up. Thanks!

Ahh... I see. So if you put a 4 cylinder signal into a 6 cylinder tach, it will read 50% higher RPM roughly.... I think.

I have no idea which my car came with... I think the whole front end was hit before. I have damage to both fenders that was half-assed repaired. I'm going to swap the fenders out as well, hopefully soon. Recently my hood has been backed over at least twice by people parallel parking SUV's in front of me. Their bumpers go right over the top of the hood and pinch it. I would love to catch one of these people hitting and running on my car out in front of my apartment building. Anyway, I got one of them yesterday. He said he should have the other one.. so I may be ok now. However, this thread isn't a total waste of time if someone can come up with a cheap source for new parts. Anyone know the weight difference between OEM metal and Fiberglass? I was told the fiberglass parts are actually heavier than metal. Does that go for the fenders as well?

Any idea about shipping on these items to France? I suppose it may fit within the limits of the US Postal Service... I wonder how much it would cost. I've got these parts and plan to remove them from my car. The only damage is they're a little bent just below the headlight buckets (behind the turn signals) But its nothing that can't be fixed pretty easily when you have them painted.

Wow, does the adapter convert for different output signals like when you go from 4 to 6 or 8 or whatnot? Or does the tach just work either way regardless of cylinders? Our TEC's have a programmable output that you can set for any tach basically. I may just hook up my stock tach to that wire and tell it I'm running a 6 cylinder for a while until I get an autometer or something. The tach worked sorta before, but the L28 swapped into the 240z supposedly doesn't work the tach correctly. Mine would go halfway up and then go backwards. Heh heh I'm really concerned about matching my speedo and tach, and need to figure out what to do about an aftermarket speedo before I buy either one, I think.

Yeah, I turned off TPS enrichment (since there is no signal) and turned on MAP enrichment (which I never used on my last engine - TPS enrich worked so well) I can't seem to get MAP enrich to work well at all, though. I'm watching my wideband shoot dangerously lean for a moment, then it rockets back to super rich after the MAP catches up. I don't know if it has to do with the placement of my map sensor or something I'm tuning wrong... but I know one thing - This throttle body is HUGE. It's a lot bigger than my previous one, and I believe its a little too much for this setup. (planning for the future) If I had TPS enrichment, I could guarantee it will be ok. With just MAP, I'm afraid that plate cracks open and it just pumps too much air for it to keep up. Anyone have any numbers for the TEC that I should try on MAP Enrichment? In the meantime, I'm still looking for a Q45 to cut a connector out of...

I've got some R32 GT-R seats to go in it... just need some time and money Heh heh

Fixed It!!!

Here's a short in-car video I just made. It's only 7psi, so nothing special, but it runs good! Right Click, Save As

Yep, sure was. I peeled off the color code sticker like a year ago, only to find that the green underneath it was in mint condition. It was an ugly the color the day it rolled off the production line. Lucky I'm not one of those people who gets hung up on what color a car was, I only care what color it is. Eventually it will resemble something like my 180sx was, but with more gold this time. (a little less subtle color on the silver)

Thats pretty funny. Guy sounds like a funny guy.

At least get up closer with that camera. I'm jealous of the roll pan in the back. I want mine to look like yours.

I chose grey over silver. Metallic grey for the sides, black on top. Problem with a black top is the sun beats down on it... it would be nice to do black on the sides and grey on the top, but I see why you want to do what you're thinking... and that doesn't fit.

I'll take that trade, but I gotta come up with a good metal one for you. Mine got smacked by a bumper. If you'll take cash, PM me with an offer.

I checked the map a lot to make sure I was safe.. and I ran it down the 405 last night going to Irvine Spectrum. Since my Tec3 keeps looking for the TPS signal, it runs lean momentarily whenever you stuff the throttle, so I have to apply throttle very gently. After working my way up to full, this SOB got fast! I'm suprised at only stock boost it pulls like it does. I need to get the boost controller in and get the TPS hooked up soon. I just have to go out and find an Infiniti Q45 that I can cut the TPS connector out of.

To go really fast in a straight line... and drive on the street dependably. (like my last SR powered car)

Yes, its finally on the road. After a long hiatus from racing, I'm ready to get back out there. I had Vildini Motorsport in Mission Viejo, CA install the engine, fuel system, intercooler/radiator, wire up the electrical for starting/charging/etc... The Tec3 and many other parts came out of my previous 180sx. I just had to make some slight adjustments to the harness and plugged it right in for this setup. Got it up and running right away without any major problems. I just had to retune the ignition and fuel maps for the little stock turbo. My old setup was 850cc with a T04S. Now its 850cc and T25. Had to start somewhere. I still have the full-race manifold and wastegate, but I'm pondering turbo choice at this point. The stock drivetrain and chassis of this old beast won't take the sort of power I made in the 180sx. I need to put in some work first. Here's some pics: Yes, the body needs work really bad. Thats ok though, it runs great! Picture of the crank sensor with the engine running Setup: Redtop SR20DET - all stock including turbo Electromotive Tec3 850cc injectors Greddy intake with Q45 TB Apexi GT-Spec intercooler AFCO aluminum radiator I need to put all my electronics in the car, including the gauges, boost controller, and turbo timer. I've spent the past day just fine tuning it to run right on the street. I've only boosted a couple times, and in this chassis... this sucker feels fast for a stock motor. The guys at Vildini took really good care of me. Special thanks to them! http://www.vildinimotorsport.com

Screw that, I'd punch it just to be up close to that beast running hard! I vote all black. Otherwise, avoid the red... stick with the neutral colors. Two-tone works well with neutrals or with like-colors I think. Black/white black/silver white/grey or something like that would be pretty sweet. Pink with polka dots would be fine as well. Heh heh Man, your car is so damn internet famous. People still post your old videos on my forum.

Well, solved that problem pretty quickly. Heh heh Going from the L to the KA stock won't be break-neck fast, but it should run smooth and efficiently compared to a carbed setup. (assuming yours is carbed) It's not a bad idea to get the motor well figured out and tuned right NA... and then move on to turbo when money and time allow.