Bartman

So I'd really like to understand how this cowl area venting works and how the air is delivered to the stock HVAC blower. I currently have my cowl panel removed and I'm not seeing how the air flows though and gets where it needs to go. The only openings I found are the ones for the drains.

Very cool! The soap would be neat as well...just make sure you don't confuse one for the other.

I'm definitely interested in the purpose of those vent slits because if they aren't needed I may go with a similar solution. I installed an aftermarket HVAC system, so is there any other reason to maintain cowl panel venting?

This piece is just a plain cowl without the vent slits.

I know some poeple question the quality of Raceonusa's hoods, but I got exactly what I expected. It's a fiberlass hood with a layer of carbon fiber on top. You can get higher quality hoods, but not for $300. Looking at eBay it looks like the prices are higher now than they were when I bought mine. I also saved money by picking it up locally for free. Shipping for the cowl on eBay is only $40

I don't understand why this cowl panel is so expensive. I got my carbon fiber hood from the same place for $300 - how can the cowl cost more? Maybe they are expensive now since they just came out and the price will come down in the future.

It looks like Raceonusa is creating carbon fiber cowl panels for 240Z's. It appears like they are actually made from fiberglass and covered with carbon fiber, but it still looks like a decent piece without the stock vent slits. A little pricey at $360, but they have the "best offer" feature turned on...I wonder how low you can buy one for??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carbon-Fiber-OEM-Cowl-Datsun-240Z-70-73-3Dr_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350102818440QQitemZ350102818440

I'm heading to Greeece on a mountain biking trip, so I probably won't be checking in too often for the next ten days or so. When I get back I hope to really concentrate on getting the bodywork done on my car and getting her painted. I've been neglecting my car for a few weeks now, so I hope to make up for it when I get back!

Congrat's Hanns it looks like a great shot. I like that you have all that horsepower and you're still able to run a stock non-vented hood.

No, I didn't really make anything. All I did was drill three holes into the dash and then pushed LED's into them. Maybe your thinking of David's setup (1 tuff z)?

LED's installed between the tach and speedo.

Thanks Danno, you hit on the exact problem I was running into. I think putting in an AC pressure sensor will give me the information I was missing to make the PCM realize I'm running AC.

It's not a problem. The vintage air kit is complete, so you don't need any AC wiring in your harness. The problem you may run into is finding a way to tell your PCM to bump up the idle when the compressor kicks on. I never did resolve this issue on my LT1 and the idle is too low when I'm using the AC. Has anyone else figured out how to handle this problem?

I looked through the magazine a little more last night and Sara added a nice little write up and fairly large engine shot of Bryan's (1 fast z) car. He represented HybridZ last quarter, but he was disappointed when they didn't write anything about his cylinder head. Kudo's to NSM for making things right!

It probably helps that he extended the wheelbase on that car. From another thread the owner posted that the wheelbase is 98" long with a fiberglass front end that's been stretched 6". They cut up 4 fenders and 2 hoods to create the molds.

I haven't really looked at it yet...but I did skim through to try and find the pic of my car. It's in there representing HybridZ and it looks pretty good! Too bad it's not painted yet, but hey - it's a work in progress.

You should be able to make them fit under rolled stock fenders. Clifton is running 17x9 on the rear of his car without flares. His net offset is about 25mm with 8" springs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119352

I'm in the process of fixing my roof, and it definitely a difficult job to do correctly. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127050&highlight=roof Be careful as sometimes a wavy roof can be an indication of prior body damage. A good hit can easily result in problems to the roof that don't wind up getting fixed when the rest of the car is repaired.

Just as an FYI I am running 8.5" wide rims on the front with 245 tires and coilovers, although my wheels are 18" diameter I don't think it makes much of a difference on the front. It's a close fit, but it does fit with the lips rolled and a net offset of +10 mm.

So lately I've been working on fixing the dents in my roof as well. For the most part the dents are all filled now, but the roof isn't completely smooth yet. I think I'll try that Evercoat Metal Glaze and see if that will give me the results I'm looking for. I'm wondering if I need to purchase a flexible long board sander as well. I've been using a flexible sanding board, but it isn't that big and uses standard size sanding paper.

Looks good David - now you need to make a matching splitter and you'll be set.

Although riding a motorcycle may not be the best choice for everyone, it works out great for me. I ride my motorcycle everyday as my commuter vehicle, rain or shine, at least 50 miles a day. It used to be 100 miles a day, but I got a job closer to home a few years ago. I have a 94 Honda ST1100 and it has around 160K miles on it and it still runs great with somewhere around 45 miles to the gallon. All I do is change the oil and tires, and it runs like a top. The only thing I had to replace was the rear end a while back. One thing that really makes using a motorcycle a great choice for me is time. By being able to use the carpool lane, splitting lanes, and getting to ride in toll lanes for free - I save somewhere around 30 minutes to an hour each way.

I think it will help, but you may still have something else going on as well. I don't know why low voltage would cause your fuel pump to make the noise you are describing.

I think 11.56 is too low, that may be your problem. from full throttle: "voltage is what makes your fuel pump, pump. More voltage = more fuel, less voltage = less fuel. In our testing a change from 13 to 12 volts on a Walbro pump will reduce fuel pump delivery by 20%! The stock wiring is barely good enough for the stock pump but when you add a high performance pump it is not up to the task since current demands go up quite a bit and in some cases they double. Enter our Hot Wire Kit. We pull the power from the back of the alternator where voltage is highest and then route it to the back of the car using heavy duty 10 gauge wire for maximum power and minimum drop. We also use factory style sealed connectors and a weather sealed 40 amp relay for "plug and play", no wire cutting installation. We also provide for additional ground connections for maximum performance since that needs an upgrade as well. Wire ties are provided so it is easy to secure the new harness to the car safely. A connector is installed into the main power cable so give an easy install point for fuel pump voltage boosters like the ones made by Kenne Bell and MSD. We will have our own voltage booster later this year."

Even though your using a reworked camaro harness, you may still need better wiring for your fuel pump. I used an LS1 F-body Fuel Pump Hot Wire Kit, and it gave me the additional voltage I needed to achieve the proper fuel pressure. I used a Walbro fuel pump and it's very sensitive to voltage. http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/