Bartman

Add another to the list of people interested in carbon fiber interior pieces.

I don't remember if it was from here or classiczcars, but I fixed my clock based on a post about lubing the gears and it works great. I'd try that first.

I'm happy with my wheel and suspension upgrages. Body roll is minimized and there's no rubbing even with the additonal rubber all the way around.

I don't have any pic's to post, but I installed my battery behind the passenger's seat using some of the space from the tool bin. It doesn't limit the movement of the passegner seat and I simply open the tool bin lid to access the battery posts. I cut a hole in the front part of the tool bin and made an enclosure for the part of the battery that sticks out, and I think it came out really good.

So here's a pic from greenmonster80's gallery. So the top black part (the header) is from the stock panels correct? And it's just epoxied to the cf door Panel? In this case it looks like the fabric is removed and then painted black. How is the cf panel connected to the rest of the door? If you used some sort of clips or screws I imagine you would be able to see it since there's no fabric to cover them up.

Looks great Dan! It looks like your using a procedure similar to what I was thinking about using. Did you paint the door and hatch jambs at the same time? I'm thinking about having the headlight buckets, hood, access panels and cowl removed - just like you did. Then I'm thinking of opening the doors and hatch when I start painting so I can hit the jambs first, then close them for the rest of the paint - then do the same for the clearcoat.

I posted in the other thread, but it would be good to put the answers in this thread instead. Please explain the specifics of installing these as replacements of stock door panels.

I like the CF Door Panel, but I still don't fully understand how they install. Does it come with clips? Can I use my old handle? Can I use my old window crank? How does it connect at the top? What, if anything, do I have to use from my old door panels to install the new one?

If your referring to my setup - I'm running 18's which allows a little wider rim than you can use with 17's. I think the widest 17" rear rim to fit under rolled rear fenders with no flares would be 9".

I don't think my 18's look out of place, but to each his own.

Cool, thanks everyone! I just wish I had it painted already.

Repost of my info within the specified time period: Name: Bart Zandbergen Handle: Bartman City/State: Corona, CA Year/Make/Model: 1973 Datsun 240Z 20 word or less description: LT1 V8, T56 6-speed. Q45 LSD, Ported heads, custom cam, roller rockers, over 360 RWHP and 395 RWTQ

Mine's a Work in Progress, but what the heck: Name: Bart Zandbergen Handle: Bartman City/State: Corona, CA Year/Make/Model: 1973 Datsun 240Z 20 word or less description: LT1 V8, T56 6-speed. Q45 LSD, Ported heads, custom cam, roller rockers, over 360 RWHP and 395 RWTQ

Yes, your flow arrows are backwards and like Mike pointed out the tee should be in the upper hose. In additon, you show a bleeder in the steam tube - which I don't think will work well. You should move the bleeder to your heater hose. I initally had my tee in the lower hose and then switched to a setup like Deja is running with the steam tube going to the heater hose. Here's a thread discussing the tee placement and diagrams as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120477

I'm looking at the Duplicolor Paint Shop Finish System for painting my car as well. There seems to be some good information in this thread, but a lot of posts are off-topic. Did anyone use this Paint Shop Finish System on a complete car and can they comment on the results - and hopefully provide some pictures as well? I'm not intested in rolling my car, or different paint systems - I'm interested in this specific system. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html They only come in limited colors with no metallics available. As was posted it is a ready-to-spray lacquer system consisting of primer, color and clear. No mixing or reducing is required, and there's no recoat window so additonal coats can be added at anytime.

I think coilovers are the way to go so that you can determine the ride height you want. I went with an 8" long spring in the back instead of the normal 10" length springs to allow me to adjust the lower perch above my rear tires. There are several places to purchase coilovers including Modern Motorsports: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_59&products_id=12 There's a set on ebay right now as well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-EIBACH-SPRINGS-COILOVER-SET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33582QQihZ004QQitemZ140236440857QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Great find Bryan! My gutted pump seems to be working okay, but if I run into any problems this looks like the way to go.

I finally got back to installing my Bad Dog frame rails and here's what I did to make them fit over my existing frame rails. Now I'm ready to prep and weld them in place.

I think it would help if a new thread was created with the latest information regarding the panels, or at least a new post with everything in one place. What are the options, what comes with them, what needs to be done to install them, prices, minimum number of orders to produce them, etc.

Break the push nuts and then you can reinstall with new ones. You can get them from Home Depot type stores. I broke the push nuts with a little cutting wheel on my Dremmel. Getting them rechromed will be difficult as they are plastic, but let us know if it works out and how much it cost.

That's a big difference. Wheels can fall off whether you run a spacer/adapter or not. Case in point: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134009

I agree, it's the spacing out of the wheels further and further that creates the potential problems. Whether that spacing is due to the use of adapters or a deep dish wheel doesn't make any difference.