Bartman

When mine died it was the Opti, but it took me a long time to figure it out. I didn't want to replace it unless I knew it was bad. I wound up getting an Accel unit on eBay and now it works great. Here's some links that may help: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78 Of course even though the Opti wound up being the problem, it passed all the Opti tests. Here's my thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115243

It would probably be cheaper to get a top that's already made for the TR7. Here's a link to one from Moss http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=34336

Since no one else answered, I'll take a shot Scottie. With an OBD1 PCM there are a couple of good programs that will allow you to easily adjust just about any parameter you could think of. So the answer would be, yes the stock engine management could be modified for turbo's supercharger's etc. I think there are several power adder (turbo, nitrous, supercharger) type packages out there that use modified PCMs that work great.

Our own EvilRufusKay made one.http://users.adelphia.net/~evilrufuskay/awwwwwwww_yeah.htm

Wow, that's a nice looking car. I don't think I've seen pictures of that one before. Hopefully that TR7 top will work out for you, it will make your car much more useable if you have a top for it. P.S. - The CarDomain link in your signature didn't work for me. I eventually got to it by going to the other web site first and then using a link from there.

Congrat's on the new hood. Do you have it installed yet? Post up some pic's when you get a chance.

I did it on my 94 LT1. It takes a different timing cover and possibly a cam as well (The cam is driven differently). Here's a link to a web page that talks about the swap.http://para.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html

I bought the European front and rear bumpers from MSA a year or two ago. The front bumper was fine, but the rears were not. The quality of the rears is not as good as the front, and I went through three sets before I gave up. MSA recognized the problems and they worked with me to try and get a decent quality rear bumper, and they eventually gave me my money back. I wound up getting mine on eBay.

If what DavyZ is saying is true and you're looking at having someone replace your studs for you...you may be cheaper off to buy Modern-Motorsports adapters.

There was another thread that was started regarding a rear skirt and people started discussing side skirts as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116605 I'd like to hear and see ideas for side skirts for our Z's. I'd really like to get a new design that we could get made, or possibly just adapting existing side skirts made for a different car...something like what veritech-z did with RSX side skirts. Let's see what you've done to your car, see your sketches, or hear about your ideas!

I don't want to hijack this thread, so I'm going to create another one for side skirts. Veritech-z and others be prepared to show and share your thoughts and ideas. Here's a link to a new side skirt thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=715202

Good meeting you and Daniel and talking about our beloved Z's. Juliette was pretty excited about that exit, she won't forget that for quite a while...if ever. I thought it was pretty cool as well, and your car has a pretty wake up the dead bad ass sound as well. I need about a half dozen or more Z's so that I can have a stroker turbo, RB26DETT, SR20, dual turbo V8, V12 BMW, V10 Viper, etc; I like 'em all.

Doing a search I found info at another z car site (classiczsomething). but the quote is from Dan Juday one of our members:"Quest Van wheel stud specs I went looking for these here a few weeks ago and found no definite answers from the search function. So here for your info are the actual measurements. We all know that the diameter and thread pitch are the same as the Z. And the splines are the same. The trick is the length. From shoulder to end 46mm (1 13/16"). Installed in the front hubs they extend 36.5mm (1 7/16") No report yet on length when installed on the rear. Napa Auto Parts part#641-2785. $1.90 each. So now you know."

I've decided to go back to the steel hood with the custom vents I installed. If anyone wants to buy this hood let me know...otherwise I'll put it up on eBay.

Either your using the wrong lugnuts or someone switched out your studs to shorter ones. Are the inside of the lugnuts sitting flush on the adapters (are both surfaces flat, or does the adapter have a tapered seat that requires a tapered lugnut)? Are the studs on the other wheels the same length? If you need to switch the studs, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

Based on the picture...it looks like your mechanic is right. The stud should be just about flush, or sticking out slightly, from the top of the lugs. If the lugs are only grabbing a couple of the threads of your studs, that sounds pretty dangerous to me.

Did you get the same one's that are in the link you included? I don't know if a 280ZX can use the same adapters as a 240Z, but they look just like the one's I got from ModernMotorsports for my 240Z. The stock studs should be long enough to allow you to bolt on the adapters. Could you give a better description of what you had to start and what you got? How long are your stock studs?

Nice color, can't wait to see pic's of it put together with everything else you mentioned. I think you wrote in an earlier post that this is a single stage paint, is that correct? I see you painted the door flat, but if this is not a pearl or a metallic paint I don't think it makes any difference; otherwise you want to paint panels with the same orientation as when the panel is installed.

Its been discussed before, but I can't seem to find any threads that mention it. Personally, I think its pretty ugly.

Sounds great, and we're definitely looking forward to some pic's of all the work you've been doing.

I think the most important thing to look for is a fairly straight car with very little to no rust. 240Z's are still relatively cheap, and like alot of people find out, the Z car purchase is one of the cheapest major components of the swap! John's cars has the kit for LSX swaps, or you can do it yourself like several other members here have done. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

I don't see any reason to dis' this swap. V8dats wants to do it, and that's the only reason needed. The improvement in the car may just be that the existing engine didn't work anymore and he got a good deal on the L28. Uniqueness can be an improvement as well. It's one thing to do a swap that plenty of other people have done, but it takes some ingenuity to do one that no one else has.

Johns has both regular SBC kits (including LT1) and LSX kits. Here's a thread that discusses the regular SBC kit. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112384 It is definitely different than the JTR setup. SBC kit http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.html LS1 kit http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

It looks like Eric's got some skills...no wonder he works at designing car models at Jada. I always thought that a Z looks a little unfinished without side skirts. I will get side skirts at some point, but I'd really like to get something like what Eric drew. How about making a limited run for some of us HybridZers?

I don't know how much you already know, but the engine you are talking about is an LT1. Here's a thread I created a while back that talks about this engine and the differences based on the donor car. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109370 As jbk240z posted, using the rearend is probably not a good idea. You won't make alot of HP/TQ with this configuration, but you can get there with pretty simple modifications and add-ons...of course that depends on what you think is alot. A lightweight Z with this swap goes pretty decent. Get the JTR book if you don't already have it. It will give you plenty of useful information.