Bartman

I think Wheelman's got it. Your setback plate is upside down and too far back (to the rear of the block). If you flip it over (the set back plate will mount to the block with 2 bolts on top and one on the bottom) the mount will be moved farther forward. The way you have it now the engine is probably sitting too far forward with plenty of space between the engine and firewall. In the pic's of my passenger mount and yours you can see that my motor mount looks closer to the front of the engine than yours. It's hard to tell from the pic, but maybe your dipstick is mounted to the correct engine boss farther forward?

Based on my practical experience with plugs, don't use the rubber cap's you can get from places like Pep Boys (I think the brand name I used was "Help"). They don't last very long before they crack and leak. I had them on my LT1 to block my heater outlets before I installed a Vintage Air system (with heater), and one busted at a car show spraying anti-freeze everywhere.

Looking closer, maybe the setback plates are on the right sides, but the passenger side plate is upside down. As you noted, your right side mount is upside down from my installation.

I got your PM and I've been looking at you pic's trying to see what the problem is. It does look like you have the set back plates switched. DAT-102 is the drivers side set back plate, but based on the first picture in your initial post it looks like you have DAT-101 on the drivers side.

The LS1 swap is a completely different animal. You can't use the JTR mounts as you can on previous SBC's (including LT1's). You can purchase John's kit for the LS1 which is considerably more expensive, and may not be complete for all cars (when I was looking at an LS1 swap John didn't have transmission mounts for early year Z's). Based on other posts, the documentation seems to be lacking as well. If you have good fabrication skills, then you can definitely make an LS1 fit easily into a Z. You just need to realize that it's not the same as pre LS1 engines and you will have LSx specific issues that you will need to deal with.

So many good ideas! I'm going to try some of these techniques on some spare panels I have and see which seems to work best. I'm definitely concerned about panel warpage and burn through.

These trim holes are pretty small, which would make cutting a piece of sheet metal to fit pretty tough. I have found info on welding in a nail head and then cutting off the rest of the nail, that might work for this.

Thanks for the technique, I can try it on my parts car and see how well it works out. As you stated, what do I have to lose? So the weld doesn't connect to the penny? I may have to try that trick. I've heard of putting something brass behind the hole, but I think I have a spare penny or two that I could use to try this technique. The problem would be holding it there with something while I weld.

That looks like a solid rear axle. The problem is installing them on a car with IRS. I searched around and haven't found a good solution for IRS cars other than some VW specific stuff. I found a few posts with someone looking for wheelie bars for his Corvette, but it doesn't look like he ever found anything.

I'm finally moving forward with my body work and I removed my side trim last night. I now need to fill the holes that are left behind and I'd like to fill them properly. I have a mig welder with gas, but I'm not very proficient with it...at least not yet. I've also read about other methods like using lead or solder: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/3065/ Post #14 - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5942 Which method should I use? If welding is the way to go, could you give me some pointers on how to do it properly so that I don't damage the panel?

Just go to Pete's web site:http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm

The 280YZ will go on a 240 and they are mode to be installed without bumpers.http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html One of the biggest factors in determining which flares are best is how big do you want them and how much of the original look do you want to retain. If you just want a little bit of extra clearance then the ZG's or the subtle Z would work great. http://www.reactionresearch.com/subtlez.html If you want bigger than you you have the YZ and the IMSA as well as a few other choices. Look around the photo album and search for "flares". It will take some time to sort through everything, but it's worth it to become an informed buyer.

Well I decided to go ahead and buy the Kaminari side skirts from MSA... I'll post up some pic's when I get them. I haven't heard from anyone that's using them or any pic's other than the standard stock pic that I posted above (MSA has the same pic in black and white), but I convinced myself to go for it anyway. I hope they will be worth it.

I found a better pic on the Kaminari web site: It looks like the Kaminari unit has a more pronounced body line around the wheelwells that continues across the bottom of the skirt. I think this would match the stock wheelwell lip and my front airdam a little better then the standard side skirts. Here's a pic of the standard front air dam that I took at the MSA show: I would really like to see a similar picture of the Kaminari side skirt.

I've been wanting to buy some side skirts for my 240Z for a while, but I haven't figured out which one's to get. I have the Kaminari Front air dam and I'm happy with the fit and quality of it. It definitely costs more than other air dams out there, but it's unique style along the company's good reputation made me opt for installing it on my project. I'm wondering if the Kaminari side skirts are worth the extra money as well. Is anyone using them? Based on the pictures at MSA's web site I can't tell if it's any different than the regular fiberglass side skirt they sell, but the difference in price is considerable. The standard fiberglass side skirts are $139.95 and the Kaminari units are $255.95. So is there any diference style and/or quality wise with the Kaminari's?

Here's a thread that talks about using a Subaru Forester rack: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112003

Congratulations on the progress; it looks like it's coming together nicely. BTW - Which side skirts are those?

Based on the requirements I read in your initial post an LT1 sounds like a good fit. It's a reliable engine that is inexpensive, has the rear distributor eliminated, lightweight (aluminum heads on f-body engines), and can easily reach your desired performance goals. LT1's still have good aftermarket support and future upgrades are inexpensive and plentiful as well.

Thanks for posting the updated pic's. I am definitely planning on doing the same thing on the 570Z. I like the integrated look provided with a 3-piece spoiler, and looks even better when it's molded into the body.

I would hold out for a better deal. I think a 95 is the way to go, but the one you mentioned above sounds like too much money for what you would be getting. Having a vented Opti is a big plus, and it winds up being pretty expensive to upgrade a non-vented opti to a vented unit (I know because I did it). I wasn't aware that all iron head LT1's have vented opti's, but if that's the case then you could opt for a 94 iron headed motor. I started a thread a while back on the differences between Caprice and Camaro LT1s: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109370 You can definitely find deals on LT1's, so don't settle for less..it may cost you more in the long run.

Thanks Jon, it looks like you did a great job on your car. I may have to go the Bad Dog rail route...but it won't be easy welding them in without a rotisserie. Dimsum, let us know how your install goes.

I've been using Canon MiniDV for years and I'm very happy with it. Mine is a ZR10 (the ZR line is now into the 100's, but when it first came out it was ZR10, then ZR20, etc.) . My camcorder has put up with plenty of abuse being strapped to my helmet on hundreds of skydives without a single problem.

Do you have any pic's that you could post of the Bad Dog frame rails installed?

Are these BadDog frame rails designed to be installed over the factory frame rails or do you have to remove the factory ones? Perhaps they can be installed either way. From the drawing dimsum posted it looks like you have no factory frame rails. These may be a nice improvement for my car and it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to install.