BrandonsZ

They would stick in the way you described it if the relay was being fed unswitched power to the sense leads (not the relay's fault). check that. Failing that the relay itself may have an internal ground loop causing a sense voltage from the main voltage. (carbon trail, deposit of outgassed metal from years of arcing) Does the brake switch get 12.2 when the key is set to ign.? If it jumps up, the the relay is most probably doing that, just enough juice to remain in contact, but not enough to put out full voltage. Obviously they cant run everything off the ignition switch so they need relays, but I still hate them.

put them in the autotrader.com

not that that would be a legal alternative, but nothing that really works is ever legal.

replace fuel pump, that solved it on my Prelude.

Make absolutely sure the alt is hooked up correctly, there could be a short to the alt, just jumper a new wire form the alt tot he battery and see if that fixes it, if so, then your alt wire has a short probably.

Damper-Dampner, whatever is probably shifted the rubber could ahve ripped or slipped, either way it's hard to check, but #1 symptom is wierd timing pointer position. Same thing on my F150, every time I turned on the car and reved it a bit the timing pointer was in a different place, then it stuck at about 45 degrees off. I had to time it by ear, and surprisingly when I had to smog it, it ws right on. Go figure. Simply marking the pulley might not solve it 100%, it could move again. If your belt was off a tooth, it would be only about 3-5 degrees, and if the belt was off 20+ degrees, it would not run. Try that, and hope I helped.

Head gaskets are cheap and easy to find, I'd save myself a second teardown and just get a known good one. AND REPLACE YOUR HEAD BOLTS!!!

That's clean!

This is my Mother-in-law's car, but I'm using it while my car is under construction. The car is well made, stiff, decent handling for a slug. It has a 4 speed auto (electric overdrive is the 4th) it's got the N/A 2.3L and gets only 21 MPG. It impressed me when I went to replace the front brakes (although they need to be replaced every 10k). Two clips and they're off. When I replaced the in tank fuel pump I was plesantly surprised that there was an access hatch in the trunk which allowed me to easily replace it without the hassle of dropping the tank or gas smell in the car. I did have a heck of a time getting it to idle well, (poorly designed IACV degrades after 10k miles as well), and the MAF sensor connector was loose and could not be tightened which lead me on a wild goose chase for three months and $900 before I found the connector was loose, but a little tune-up grease and poof it's fixed for over 18 months. In the last 18 months, not a single thing failed or needed to be repaired. The paint looks fresh to boot. It will go 90 steady, but has a heck of a time in 4th at 65. Sorry for the long winded speech, hope something is useful in there. I have to say I don't like it because it has such trouble on the freeway especially when the AC is on. You would definately need to upgrade that engine.

I remember when they were first doing these swaps and they wanted to replace all the rubber because, "the new stuff don't work with the old rubber". That was probably just the service writers gouging the customers. We replaced everything rubber with a different type of rubber. Don't remember what. Included: compressor, hoses, o-rings, and evacuated the system and oil and flushed the system, and dried the system, then added the new stuff, but then again, I worked for a Jaguar Dealer and they probably would rather go overboard. Even in 1997, when I contemplated doing the swap for my Prelude, the kit was $1000 and consisted of new everything. Just another way to make a buck huh?

Now I'm scared... Like just before your first... uh... you know. I was driving a HONDA for crying out loud and now I drive a 240 VOLVO which does not impress with it's near zero responce to throttle action. So you say it's like a drug addition, and I'll never be able to drive another car again? I'll let you know.

I get it.

That was me I bet I have posted that before. Anyway, I don't completely believe the vaporization theory, what about propane? It's not a liquid when you inject it, no liquid, no droplets, why isn't it the best thing since sliced bread? The relative energy density of Propane compaired to gasolie is 96%, and it has lower emmissions. so for roughly the same weight of fuel, you should get the best mileage possible, however, you don't. Because the efficiency of the engine is only a few percent better with Propane. In my mind then the ideal vaporized gasoline shouldn't get you better then 10% max more efficientcy. It's an urban legend.

With a 15 year old BMW? 1990... It was a good year.

It's an Alternator-voltage thing.

All I see the speed boats do when they hit too high a speed is flip over. But maybe they could survive if they had the correct aerodynamics and a propellor or jet.

It's possible, if the car was 500lbs and had the aerodynamics of a Formula 1 Racer. Then again, that would technically be a motorcycle with 4 wheels. You could make a motorcycle get 200mpg I bet. My Chevy Sprint got as high as 65mpg with a 2bbl carb from 1986. It weighed roughly 2000lbs with the driver and could go 65mph on the freeway. 0-60 was 21-23 seconds however in 4th.

When it gets down to the threads, you should probably replace them. what does "Floors and trunk is sane" mean?

Solar Flares... Oh and never drive on a Full or New moon.