BrandonsZ

What you've never had a 25lb object fall on your head before? No biggie, makes a damn good alarm clock in case of an earthquake... or maybe on those sleepless nights you just need something to "knock you out".

Nnly if they are DOT approved "pink".

Would it be against the code of Hybridz'er ethics to get those SCARAB emblums on my JTR car? Come on we need something cool that only the insiders know to show we have a dang SBC JTR car! Wow my gears are turning when I saw that beetle with the wings sooo coool! I certainly don't want the Bowtie, I just don't like it, too recognizable, I have a sleeper here. The only thing I did was put "350z" liscence plate frames on it which would make absolutely no sence except to those I told that it means 350cid Z. Sure would like some sort of Emblum, but not too gaudy, ntohing that says "bling" but not too plain either..

I smell exhaust only when I roll down the driver side window. My exahust exits the stock location and comes out about 4" from the bumper. My back hatch is perfectly sealed and I have no wind noise when all the windows are up. I get no leaks from pressure washing. If I have a tail wind or at a stopsign about 50% of the time I smell exhaust, never on the freeway or above 40mph, but it's not that bad anyway, I consider it the smell of freedom. I also smell gas when I floor it with the window down, not sure if that's unburnt fuel or air cleaner spray.

Yeah I'm pretty sure you could put a honda engine in a 300zx. Only you need a rear wheel drive version, Get a full drivetrane out of a S2000. j/k Oh, and if you have time it might be faster to... But if you don't, then yes you could put a 350 in it, make it an LS1 and then put a T-56 behind it. That'd be pretty nice. The car does pick up some pep with good ole chevy power. But in my opinion, the 300 is too heavy, use that as your daily driver, and get a straight 240 with little to no rust, then you could easily fit a carburated SBC, but I'd still recomment the T56.

I know a guy who knows a guy who could take care of dat B*** for ya. Only, if you ask me I don know what you're talking about capiche? (joke) ..... ?

the first carb might either be too rich or too lean. Idle adjustment is just that, idle, won't fix this problem. I'd rebuild the first one (just take it apart, clean it, replace the gaskets and seals (if necessary) and you'll probably find a dead bee or something somwhere, it might be gummed up.

Expect your torque to come in earlier, 550 is not hard to do for a 454, but it usually occurs much lower, say 2500-3500. (from what I've seen). I'd chop 1000 rpm off both those numbers for a more realistic goal, the big block does not need to rev high, you don't want ti to because it has a larger rotating mass.

WOW! I must have really stayed away from the "one more thing" syndrome. Well that and the bet I made with my wife that I could make a better car with less than 1/2 the cost of her new car. But I did manager to spend everything I budjeted and I still don't have cool rims or new seats. Just barely did it, but "better" is so subjective .

You dissagree? I tested some welds where I welded straight through paint and rust and it was as good as clean metal, although it is better practice to clean and wipe the parts first. For ciritcal joints, what would you rather have a Mig or Tig weld?

Sometimes you have to learn the hard way. Like using a braker bar on a stuck spark plug only to realize you were turning it the wrong way (i've seen it happen, you don't want to know).

Wow you could turn that into a 20+ gallon tank by just taking out that spare tire.

why not TIG? It's easy to learn, the welds are stronger, and you have ultimate control. I can't say enough about the Lincoln 185. Pricey yes, but that damn thing will weld straight through paint and rust and oil, and it doesn't seem to matter what I do to the metal or what residue it has. and it is so forgiving, if you burn through, it's so easy to fill holes, edge weld, and if you don't like a weld? Just weld over it, no need to grind or even clean the old weld. I'm sure this isn't good practice, but seriuosly, you could take a coat hanger, and weld stainless to high carbon (ok I didn't try it but I did weld stainless to high carbon with low carbon rod). After grinding, I found no porosity, full penetration and the weld seam was neat and tidy. I'll be paying it off for the next two years though. well worth it. I tried to weld a bar to a plate with a $250 sears special non shielded flux core mig and I had to clean and regrind after every 1/2" because the thing didn't like to arc to anything but pristine metal and it oxidized ahead of the weld. I strongly recommend shielded. They work well, but penetration can be an issue for thicker work, and burn through can be a hassle for thinner work. The tig is right at home in any case, and amybe for $1000 you could get a nice used one or a DC only rig.

I don't know the differences between the swap in a 75 and a 72, but I can try to help if you have specific questions. Look at my tag line.

the onlt difference would be the number of teeth on the flywheel and the bolt pattern on the flywheel, but there are ways around that too.

I would have had to rent mine for 9 months! Harbor Frieght like $150.

c'mon... Electric is the way to go, get a felx-a-lite 180 extreme, totally works well.

if the AM meter goes to 45 there is a short. The radio will turn off regardless of a power draw because the ignition switch intentionally turns off the ACC circuit while in the start position. You may have a bad wire connection to the starter solenoid. If you don't hear the solenoid click, it may be there, try to turn over the car with a 12V wire to the solenoid, or check for voltage at the solenoid, it may be a stuck solenoid. I swore up and down that ignition switch was bad in my Prelude, but nope, it was the starter solenoid -AND- vapro lock with the fuel pump - AND - the fule pump relay and they all failed simultaneously I'm serious! I rebuilt the starter and it turned over again, but still wouldn't start, then I checked and had no fuel pressure so I checked the fuel pump relay and it was stuck open. So I replaced that and it would start fine on a cold day, then I replaced the fuel pump and had 2 years of problem free driving. Check the switch before you replace it.

This may be in bad taste, but I love my carburator. Can a man love a carburator? I think so.

this is slightly more cost, but try an on-the-car balance for the front wheels that may be your vibration problem. Your rotors may not necessarily be balanced.