BrandonsZ

To compair complete cars try this: (Area under the curve HPXRPM from 0 to Redline)*Gas Mileage ----------------------------------------------------------- Weight -The HP Curve over the entire RPM range takes into account the torque bonus for bigger engines (higher HP at lower RPMs) and RPM bonus for higher revving engines (HP at Higher RPMS). -The Average Gas Mileage takes into account body shape and gear efficiency. -The Weight is self explanitory This could be a back of the envelope calculation before you bet your pinkslip with that Ricer on Saturday Night. If you research well, you could be the proud? owner of a 1993 Acura Legend with a Turbo sticking out of the hood and a rat's nest for wiring under the dash. I'd like to add something about octain rating requirements because of course you have more energy in 107 octain than 87, so it's an unfail advantage to this calc, but it's not as simple as penalizing Rating/87 because this is a virtual percentage of octaine as compaired with pure octaine, but if we looked up the heating value of the fuel you use in either car we could use that for compairison it's a little variable that messes with the fidelity of mileage. This is very subjective, but is gives you a warm fuzzy or a well founded respect depending on which number is bigger. Too bad it's not a simple number with simple units. We need a unified theory of automotive engineering here. I like it but it's not perfect by any means.

Conversational Ebonics Rap 100A History: The white man, modern society, and you. Industrial study: Chapter 1 - How to pick a perfect Strawberry Chapter 2 - Greeting, the finer points sponcered by Wal-Mart Chapter 3 - Finding a McDonalds. Chapter 4 - Bookkeeping basics: shelf or stack? Chapter 5 - Starting your own business; Drugs or Sex? Appendix A - Welfare Forms Economic Theory Chapter 1 - Why big banks are Evil? Chapter 2 - Spend Spend Spend Chapter 3 - Saving is for Chumps Chapter 4 - Debt is good, how to amass freedom from work. Chapter 5 - SSN: why you need more than one.

$40 to rekey! Dang, I should start a business, takes like 10 minutes. I haven't tried to rekey my locks yet, I'll let you know how hard it is, but older GM is a snap... literally.

I don't know about you, but I grab the steering wheel in the exact locations where they put these buttons, and I'm afraid I'd accidently shift if I gripped too hard.

It's good to know.

Kinda have to keep your towel on in the Gym hmmm?? Yes I understand the water was cold. Can you say "shrinkage?" But seriously, any smaller and that engine would be an "inney". Sorry Aux, but you're just such a dang smartass, I had to get you back for the 15 other times you quipped me and I said nothing.

You say Camaro, I say Camero, let's call the whole thing off.

Bub did he need two side markers and two tow tail lights on there too? come on!

Check your inlet pressure then check your float bowl then check your cutoff valve attached to the float bowl (don't know the exact look of an SU never did one) then take the carb apart and rebuild it with new seals, it's leaking bro.

#57 If it was about the money, I could have had a 2005 Honda Civic with 35MPG or 99% restored 1968 Camero with 8:1 power to weight ratio for what I spent. But it's not about the money, it's about better than 8:1 power to weight ratio with 20MPG+ freeway.

Thanks for posting them for me.

I think I did anyway, I was at the eye doctor, I didn't look at the date but it's not the usual "People" and "Time" magazeens you usually find there, and it looked new. I just paged onto it then they called me... Then I forgot about it.

this is the hardest thread to follow than any other thread I ever read on this forum... I just got it. I bet I know that guy who called customer service. Duh. "Comere Piggy Squeeeeeeeeeelll"

Drive on any road in british columbia and you'll most likely have enough mud, dents and broken glass to make any ride look like a serious off-roader. Anyone know why they put sticky oily sludge on the roads in canada in the middle of nowhere which only causes the mud to become perminantly attached to everything under your car and harden so you need a screwdriver to take it off?

I never feel these little buggers. I only barely felt the one on Sunday. San Diego Costal resident but everyone around me was saying, "Did you feel an Earthquake?" Well if they didn't know for sure it must not have carried this far south too well.

Get cranky all you want, I'm just saying it's higher CFM (usually better), I'm not a cooling expert. So I spent more for something that worked very well for me, your choice was a superior choice then why argue about it. Thanks for your feedback.

That Looks awsome. But the 180 fan pulls more CFM that's one of the main reasons why I got it it was the highest pulling fan I could find, what's $200 difference when you're talkin thousands+ for the swap. I also personally like everything I add to be new, and then I'd only save $80 right? Chicken feed! The Taurus fan is probably a great fan though they had V8's right?

I really didn't like the idea of having to dismount the hood latch every time I had to change the rotor cap, and I didn't want HEI because of the Tach issue with the 240z, but I saw this picture of a silver Z that had the stock hood latch with an SBC (I can email pictures PM me.) I took the latch (with the safety hook stock) and moved it over one hole (i.e. I removed it, drilled a 1/2" hole for the spring shaft and added another screw hole using a 1/4-20 nutsert and VERY careful drilling) Then I took off the hood catch (the thingy that is mounted to the firewall) and moved the catch over as far as it would go by slotting the two mounting holes and the wire release mounting hole (to keep the latch from being held slightly open). Then re attached it with 4 bolts and 4 1/4-20 nutserts in the firewall so it's removable without having to take the wipers off and that panel next to the windshield which scratched my paint. But I don't have to remove it cause it's about 1/2" from the distributor. I'll probably cut some more of it off to make sure it clears the sway space of the engine. I have poly mounts so I don't expect the engine to flex that much. I can email pictures of the setup if you PM me with an email address. It's freaking great, doesn't require donor parts from a 280 and moved the latch and catch effectively 3.3" closer to the driver side. Totally clears the standard distributor (you might have to move it a little more for HEI.) and I can take it off without any trouble. The hood closes exactly how it did before with all stock parts. BTW anyone want some JTR hood latch brackets? Untouched.

JTR recommends the 150, but it looked to me like there must be something that could work better, cover the radiator more, and so I bought the Flex-a-lite 180 expecting to hack away at it. Summit (FLX-180) To my pleasant surprise, with just the two C-shaped brackets, some 1/4-20 Nutserts and a couple drills I installed the thing to the JTR kit Radiator brackets and the stealth conversions radiator and it is so beautiful it looks like I spent a mint to get it perfect, but only took 2 hours. It's like they designed it to fit perfectly. Well, it's a little resistance to actually get it between the top and bottom bracket of the JTR mounts, but only by a slight bit then by just adding another couple sets of holes in the C-brackets supplied by Flex-a-lite on their 180 universal kit, it just works beautifully. I can't post pictures because I suck at internet stuff and don't have a website to post to, but if you PM me with an email address I will email you the pictures of the setup it's damn sweet. Feels good to have a success story at least every once in a while. I highly recommend this product. Wow. It covers 99%+ of the radiator, seals to the aluminum side rails of the radiator and top and bottom brackets with the JTR radiator kit and just gives you enough space to put your rad hoses on. IT even has a glass reinforced cowl that drills well, and is good enough to mount the electronics to. Hookup is simple; One lead wire (I’m using the Black-White which used to go to the old alternator regulator which seems to turn on when the key is on the on position, and off when it's off or on Acc.) one positive straight from the bat with a provided 30A fuse and wire that is long enough to make it round the front of the radiator in the spaghetti of wires there, and a ground wire that I ran to the alternator grounding point. This is the true joy of a Hybrid Z ownership. I'm not sure if it could be used for the stock engine though the cowl is pretty deep, but for the 350 Chevy with a long pump it's awesome like 4-5" in the vast between the engine and the fan. Which means it might even work for Scarab setup. That's enough.

I almost bought one of those then I went for a 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy. I was looking for 2 years for a nice chevy but they all sucked, too much work, rust buckets, but then I saw the ford and said, Ahhh I can put a chevy in it. But that's a nice truck dude!

So then I clearly get your calcs, great job with that, you sound like a pro. The computer will adjust the A/F using the O2 sensor (assuming you are using FI) and the jet size will deturmine A/F ratio if you use a carb. So you can set the A/F ratio that way, that's easy. Assuming you have a carb, you can spec the carb by CFM, so that's a no brainer. (assuming your heads let at least that much through as well) But with Fuel injection, you're only concerned with CFM of dry air so there must be curves or empirical data to support CFM ratings for different throttle body sizes assuming the intake and heads can support the throttle body size. Or am I way off in the bushes?

All that work and the engine is in the Scarab position. Knock 10g off the price and I'll take it... if I had the money and it was a hard top.