dr_hunt

I'll trade you a rusty z straight up! Daaaayyyyyuuuuuuummmmmm that's NICE!

Love it!

Like these? Friggin' expensive, ouch! Oh well, they are here. So steering shaft mod possibly, not bad I can handle that ok. You like them otherwise? Does the coating last?

Try this

Well, I have the TPI aready, that and megasquirt, wirng harness, etc, etc. ready to go. The TPI fits my AFR 220 heads too. Just odds and ends needed now.

ruh roh raggy, ru reed rew rires, ride ones. Yup scooby, wide stick ones, then he can break stuff!

Ok, well poured the other 8 yards of concrete, put up the uprights, so now it looks like this. Ordered 8 yards and had 1.5 yards over. Oh, well, better over than short!! Got alot of left over 5-1/2" casing so I'll build a shade for my 25' fifth wheel camper later on. The little diesel miller welder works great for projects like this. Going to move the 500 gallon diesel tank and fill that area in with some base coarse to match the rest of what I did this morning after pulling the forms. Off to get some more materials when the wind quits blowing, it's doing like 35mph today. Oh, and got to go turkey hunting next week, either Tuesday or Wednesday so I won't work that day either.

I"m not sure how much HP it's making. It's been sitting all winter and I'm working on new shop facilities, just installed lift. I'll have it out here soon, we'll see. Mine is blowthrough with a C&S 850 aerosol billet carb, not a heck of alot to tune on those, mainly jets. The new setup in the new z is going to be single turbo TPI.

wilwood it's about $50

Nice. I'm running different heads (afr 227's full cnc race) smaller motor (355) and I run a solid roller, that's about .600 lift and 25X duration, 114 LSA, can't remember the spec's right off my head. Turbo's are about what you have right now my wastegates are 18psi. I'd guess with the restricted heads you'd want alittle more duration on the exhaust although alot of lift probably wouldn't benefit you that much if at all. Are you going blow through or EFI? What are your rear end measurements wheel flange to wheel flange? Wheel dimensions, width, bolt pattern and backspacing?

Even better yet; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5425,415_SandB-Chevy-Stainless-Tru-Ram-Exhaust-Manifolds.html Get them in stainless!!!!

It's important to lube the rings thoroughly and wipe the bores with oil prior to installation IMO. I push the rings into the grooves exposing the ring end gap on the upside and squirt oil into the grooves of the compression rings then fill the oil expander , rotate the rings to ensure complete lubrication and then adjust rings for proper gap placement clocking on the piston prior to installation in the bores. There is nothing wrong with 20-50. You want the oil to remain in the ring area rather than dribble down during the time period it takes before you start the engine IMO.

Did you buy the car like that with the V8 in it? Who did you get it from?

If the filter plugs as was the case for stony the filter bypass opens and you have the same crap now running throught your engine. Had the filter bypass been blocked and he had a good filter, likely the crap would not have entered the engine. I never ever run a filter bypass on any motor I build. I want a supply of clean oil going through the engine.

:shock: Got my sandersons today.:shock: Would post a picture but I'm having sticker shock over the invoice. They better work! Pouring 8 more yards of concrete wednesday. My migrant worker got busted and shipped back to mexico. Oh, well, a buddy is going to come help me wednesday. But up 2 of the 4 corner posts this evening. Took off the whole weekend to ride the Sea-doo at the lake. 72mph on a ski is friggin fast!

Rats, I almost had him convinced so I could sell him mine. Then you go and blow it! Actually that's why I went TPI, I want it all under a stock hood for the sleeper effect!!!! :lmao:

The filter bypass would have done nothing for the engine except what already happened. It would have saved the filter, but a proper filter may have prevented the engine damage if the bypass was eliminated. It's a common deletion when building an engine IMO.

I don't know, the tpi fits, but are you opposed to running another hood or installing a hood scoop of some kind?

+209 for the I"m not running a FRAM, they totally suck, have for years and years. Baldwin, wix and Carquest is about all we can get without going to autozone and wallyworld to get a junk FRAM. That sucks stony. Education the hard way is expensive.

Going to need more detail on your car, engine combination, timing, carb, efi, etc, etc.

IMO most V8 z's, v6's, and high hp l6's tend to anihilate the tires out of the hole from a dead stop. My thinking and experience comes from that fact. Any car hooking up rather than smoking the tires out of the hole, hp for hp, will be faster, hands down. It doesn't take all that much tq from a good motor to burn the hides off any z car. The glide makes alot of sense from that standpoint. Drawback is no overdrive commonly desired for street use.

So I take it your not going to go for a sunday drive??

I've got the miller big blue 500, it's about the same but without the air compressor. Heck of a welder and the perkins diesel engine is flawless, runs 48 hours on a tank of diesel (17 gallons).

I'll buy the 53' trailer, you buy the welder and all the accessories! Nothing like having a welder that costs more than the rig!

Perhaps, but common sense tell us that 1. He's not capable since he doesn't have the equipment or knowledge. 2. Rods are plentifull and inexpensive. 3. The risk outweighs the benefit in this case. So the simple answer is NO you can't and NO you shouldn't even attempt it. Either get a new rod or a used rod. IMO have them all weight matched and resized. But it's your decision.