dr_hunt

I think the lesson that you taught the kids will be worth way more than the damage to your car! You did a great service to alot of people yasin, even though it cost you $$ in damage. It takes a big man to do what you did.

Man I like your thinking, the first option ls3 would be awesome, 515hp would be great in a z. I think the 572 is alittle overkill with the compression and all and would limit the "daily driver" status since it would require race gas. Your going to have to make some mods to the z, I would think the baddog frame rail would be ok for either of the small blocks. 720hp would require a cage to tie it all together, and would probably put you into a solid rear axle conversion IMO to be reliable day to day.

OK, well the lift arrived this afternoon. Unloaded it with the backhoe and here it sits. Now I can make mount plates with the j bolts welded on the bottom and all thread coming out the top to fit the lift mounts. Been a rough week, I've been to alot of funerals and it's windy as all get out. Next week, I'll form and pour concrete. Since it's so nasty I've been painting the inside of the house where the new tile is down. Last week I bought the tile for the rest of the house so on bad days I can work in the house laying tile, etc. I sold a TC contender pistol in .223 that had a leupold 2x scope on it. So, now that's converted into z cash. So, I'm going to order those sanderson block huggers in the 1 - 7/8 primary size to fit the afr heads. I think that will suffice for running the exhaust plumbing up to the front of the motor where it'll merge and I'll mount a T6 turbo flange for the holset turbo. I'm going to fab my own mounts so it shouldn't be that big of a deal getting the exhaust up to the front. Now to start ordering Powerglide parts and a custom converter (spragless 3500 stall). I dug around the shop and found I had a Hurst PG shifter laying around so I'll use it in the z. I picked up 2 more powerglide cores the other day from a friend that gave them to me. I expect the engine block, heads, new pistons, crank with new balance job and custom cam to be ready in 3 weeks. Then I'll assemble the engine, build the trans. I hope the shop doesn't take that long to assemble, I have everything on hand already except for the slab, but then once the lift is in and the shop is up, I'll be ready to strip the l26, trans and rear out of the 260z. I think spraying paint stripper on the car and pressure washing it should get most of the paint off. Then I'll start fabbing the roll cage and doing the frame rail supports and installing the rear rails for the 4 link. Then off to Ezell aluminum fab for the installation of the tubs. The only other things I think I'll have to buy are gauges, alum rad, wastegate, misc intake piping and silicone, exhaust tubing. I think I have most everything else already laying around like greddy profec E01 electronic boost controller, Wideband O2, etc, etc. I traded a 327 shortblock to Ezell for some work which inlcudes a custom aluminum fuel tank!!! So the budget looks like this so far; $500 TPI with megasquirt $1050 for Holset Pro 52 $200 for Rust FREE 260 z $2000 Engine machine work, JE pistons, Bullet hyd roller cam, lifters springs, pushrods, balancing, bearings, gaskets. $1000 for PG parts and converter. $300 Narrowed 9 inch rear end $300 Moser axles $300 Custom driveline $300 Used Detriot Locker or the 9 inch ford $2000 for other misc stuff (estimated) So, for now thats about $7950. I'll add it up later when I know more. Painting it myself so won't have much in that either. Should be a nice daily driver! Hoping to get 900FWHP out of the motor, we'll see.

Come on it was joke.

:lmao: :lmao:

I did alittle checking and the one I have is rated to 900hp at a pd of 1psi @ 1000cfm. IMO you would want the biggest intercooler you can find. Efficiency is a function of area and it is far worse to have too small a unit rather than one that is too large IMO. Besides that it allows for future hp expansion at a later date.

Interesting find pete, I have a '67 327 sitting here in the floor of the shop and it's a threaded hole. Maybe yours is earlier than that or never got threaded for some reason.

I was considering ordering some for my new turbo build to simplify the exhaust plumbing. Just have it come forward and up in front of the engine on the drivers side where the turbo will be mounted. Seems easier using my NA motored z as a pattern IMO.

I hate to tell you this but whomever built your engine is a moron! AFAIK that has always been threaded, under the main cap there is a welch plug that if you don't get it in there your oil doesn't get filtered on gen 1 sbc's. IMO the order of building an engine is to install the cam bearings, wash it with soap and water using oil galley brushes, blow it dry, then install all the oil galley plugs correctly, etc, etc.

I have a jgs precision that the core is 4 x 23.5 x 11.75 made specifically for the s30. I have no idea what it flows or what it's rated at. I'm going to try it out though.

Has anyone tried these on an S30? http://www.rjays.com/Exhaust/snd-sbc-blockhuggers-01.htm They are the same price here as they are at sanderson. I wonder if they work where is the cheapest place to buy sandersons?

Basically mild steel is 55ksi tensile strength, 6061 T6 is 45ksi, 2024 T3 is 70ksi, 7075 T6 is 83ksi. Not all 7075 have that property so watch out when buying it and don't get plain 7075. Expect to pay alot more for 7075. I met with an aluminum sales rep today at lunch and aluminum is going up monthly. Thickness and shape will determine what would be best IMO. Even for 6061 you only need about 1.3 time the thickness of mild steel to have equal strength. So I wouldn't be that concerned about it IMO.

Since there are over 2000 different grades of aluminum, T6061 with a T6 harness being widely used for parts such as what you have, I wouldn't be concerned with it unless you don't have the T6 harness, but then only mildly concerned. Being that as it may, about all I can say it's up to your discretion.

Check this out!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=130211737975

Your ok, the gears are solid, the distance between the cam centerline and crank centerline vary engine to engine, creating some play. Also not all gear drives are the same either. I tried to put a PJ gear drive on one of my new dart blocks and the idler gears wouldn't go in at all, yet on my other one it's as you described with some slack. I ended up running a billet timing gear with a roller thrust against the block on my little motor. Seems to work ok, but I'd rather have the gear drive.

Do the math, Gas truck at say 17mpg, gas at $3.20 gallon here = $0.188 per mile Diesel getting say 21 mpg, fuel at $3.85 gallon here = $0.183 per mile. Still cheaper, get 10K on oil filter changes versus 3K on gas, yeah it uses twice the oil but you get more than twice the life. Rotella T synthetic diesel oil is $17 gallon at walmart. They last 500,000 miles between rebuilds, have tons of power, I've got a combined 570,000 miles on them. I've never had a ball joint problem, must be a problem with all the salt on the icy roads. Replaced 2 starters, 2 fuel lift pumps, never had to replace rotors, been through brake pads and shoes, but they are easy to change DIY. Complete spring replacement kits for the rear brakes are $10 at Napa. You can get a quad cab 4wd diesel here for $27K brand new at the dodge house. There was an ad in the local paper here a couple weeks ago. I paid $32K for my '04 including tax, title, license, and extended warranty in '04! Just got back from Juarez, Mexico last night buying more ceramic tile for the house. Filled up there in Mexico and Diesel is $2.10/gallon. $56 to fill up the thirsty dodge with less than 1/4 tank showing on the gauge! Burned alittle over 1/4 tank getting back 200 miles.

My '94 dodge 2wd regular cab diesel gets a bonafide 25mpg. The '99 4wd extended cab 24 valve gets 22.5mpg and the '04 quad cab gets 19mpg. All are unmolested stock diesels. If your going diesel get the manual trans and the tallest gears, like 3.54's or 3.73's. Resale on a diesel is phenominal as compared to a gas. I talked with my oil patch buddy Odis McClellan yesterday and oil futures are at a low of $80/bbl and a high of $120/bbl so the average is $100/bbl. So don't look for gas to go down much if any. That's his opinion and he's in the oil and gas business.

The definition by urban dictionary; penis car Any flashy, expensive, and/or fast car that a man uses to make up for his small cock. Penis cars can also have big rims, big sound systems, expensive interier, and so on. Ferraris, Bugattis, Corvettes, PORSCHES, Dodge Vipers, Lamborghinis and Hummers are all penis cars. If you have a penis car, you should trade it in for a mid-size truck, but not a huge on as huge trucks are also penis cars. owners of penis cars are usually caught wearing tight jeans, white cowboy hats and American flag button down shirts.

Well, am I biased cause I have 4 dodge trucks? 1933, 1994, 1999 and 2004. I have 350K on the '99, 195K on the '94 and 25K on the '04. Oh, the '33 has probably made it 3 miles, 200 feet at a time! Too bad alky is $200 a barrel nowadays. I like them dan, durable, no hassles, great fuel mileage. Don't get me wrong I'm a chevy man, but for out here you can't beat the cummins diesel for longetivity and great fuel mileage that beats the other two hands down! I hear very good things about the toyota tundra and the nissan titan. I rode in a nissan titan the other day and it had alot of cabin wind noise which I didn't like so if you drive one, then take it at freeway speed. Oh, I forgot your freeway speed is 15mph max! :lmao: Ok, well then take it to the drag strip!

I agree, and I don't buy the high price above msrp. I know the vette did that for awile, but that's just buyers being stupid. I don't think being stupid and paying too much for a car makes any case argument IMO. If they want a little penis car, then it's their money, which is why they are called little penis cars. If they get spanked on the track and the pocketbook then who's the dummy?!

I was thinking about your boundary conditions. Are you putting the outlet at 25" (assuming you mean vacuum) and the inlet at 15psi? If so then I think that in reality the outlet pressure should be an iteration of multiple runs to see what the pressure drop for a given mass flow rate would be. ie. run 1 with 15psi and 25" vacuum, pd would be x run 2, 15psi and outlet pressure would be 15 - x, pd would be x2 run 3, 15psi and outlet pressure would be 15 - x2, pd would be x3 etc, etc. After n runs, say about 15 iterations your calculations would be more real world dynamic conditions IMO. Edit; The reason I say this is that what we want to look at is a system under dynamic conditions that mimic actual runing. And actual runnng the manifold pressure will be positive, not a vacuum, therefore the core outlet pressure shouldn't be 25". The mass flow capability of any core will be less when there is more pd. Also heat rejection and thus efficiency of the intercooler depends on residence time in the core. Further, too high a velocity of air will actually heat up the air to some degree. Of course all of this goes out the window if I'm reading your 25" wrong.

Yeah, it's a good one for your planned combo.

Yeah, somebody has tried them, and they don't fit dart blocks.

IMO if the filter comes loose, safety wire ain't going to help you, if it's loose, by the time you notice it, it'll be hasta la vista to the motor. Cleaning filters doesn't seem practical, but if you have the capability it might be a different story.