dr_hunt

CYFD is coming this morning. Should be interesting.

Been tiling the house, but never did his room. Got him a new queen sized bed and going to rip up the carpet and tile his room. Ordered new blinds for his windows last night. Getting it all fixed up. Going go-kart racing in alb this weekend!!! Starting on the monte and going to pull the z around and get that party started. I have a BBC 468 fresh with forged pistons, Brodix BB2 heads, roller rockers, dual plane intake, 10:1 compression forged pistons, 2 bolt block, arp rod bolts, etc. Traded it for the paint and body work on the new z. So the new z will be professionally painted when I get it ready!!!! WORK IT BABY!!!!! Trying to decide on Color. I want Blue but white is nice also.

Good point John. First we are starting off with a little get together. Women, his and mine respectively, a couple of friends, some burgers, cokes, beer, home made french fries, salad, and ice cream!!! Work it baby!!!!

My blessing are many, which includes all of you guys here!!!! Let's get the party started in here!!!!!!!!

Well, it's partially settled out of court. The criminal charges are still pending against his mother and on hold till this gets done. He stays with me, she doesn't pay child support in the interim, we go to a psych expert (waste of time), she gets 3 weekends of visitation a month starting with supervised visitation and gradually working into regular visitation but only if he wants to see her which he does not at this time. If he has sports, then she doesn't get him at all. She brings all his belongings tonight or the deal is off. When the psych expert determines if the abuse is real or not then we go to court later and then she has to face the music then but my son doesn't have to testify against his mother, only the psych moron. Best I could do and the best in my mind to end the trauma for now for my boy.

No, 900 is the limit if it is measured on the cold side. If that is the hot side then it can be that or alittle more. From wikipedia; The average temperature of a piston crown in a gasoline engine during normal operation is typically about 300C (600 degrees Fahrenheit) When auto enthusiasts want to increase the power of the engine they may add some type of forced induction. By compressing more air and fuel into each intake cycle, the power of the engine can be dramatically increased. This also increases the heat and pressure in the cylinder. The normal temperature of gasoline engine exhaust is approximately 650C (1200F). This is also approximately the melting point of most aluminium alloys and it is only the constant influx of ambient air that prevents the piston from deforming and failing. Forced induction increases the operating temperatures while “under boost” and if the excess heat is added faster than engine can shed it, the elevated cylinder temperatures will cause the air and fuel mix to auto-ignite on the compression stroke before the spark event. This is one type of engine knocking that causes a sudden shockwave and pressure spike, which can result in an immediate and catastrophic failure of the piston and connecting rod. The “4032” performance piston alloy has a silicon content of approximately 11%. This means that it expands less than a piston with no silicon, but since the silicon is fully alloyed on a molecular level (eutectic), the alloy is less brittle and more flexible than a stock hypereutectic “smog” piston. These pistons can survive mild detonation with less damage than stock pistons. The “2618” performance piston alloy has less than 2% silicon and could be described as hypo (under) eutectic. This alloy is capable of experiencing the most detonation and abuse while suffering the least amount of damage. Pistons made of this alloy are also typically made thicker and heavier because of their most common applications in commercial diesel engines. Both because of the higher than normal temperatures that these pistons experience in their usual application and the low-silicon content causing the extra heat-expansion, these pistons have their cylinders bored to a very loose cold-fit. This leads to a condition known as “piston slap” which is when the piston rocks in the cylinder and it causes an audible tapping noise that continues until the engine has warmed to operational temperatures. These engines should not be revved when cold, or excessive scuffing can occur.

And now we know why she is your EX!

An infrared spectrophotometer is typically needed to analyze the fart gas for content. It is inversely proportional to the compression differences between cylinders.

If all else fails I believe your problem is in valve adjustment. You said you readjusted all of the rocker arms. Were they out of adjustment? How did you adjust them? Backfiring through the carb indicates that the cylinder is sparking before the valve is closed or the valve is not adjusted right. Firing before the valve is closed is timing too far advanced. Your going to want about 35 degrees total advance at WOT which does not inlcude vacuum advance. On any performance engine vacuum advance is pretty useless.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 normal starting with tdc #1 6-5-7-2-1-8-4-3 180 degrees out starting with tdc #1. As you can see, No it will not run unless you rotate the dizzy 180 degrees or remove and reposition the rotor 180 degrees. I think your confusing being 180 degrees out with being a tooth off or two.

Jon is most likely correct. One thing you do when you get low numbers is squirt some oil in the sparkplug holes and re-do the compression test. If the numbers go up then it's ring seal related. If not then since it is fresh I would assume the cam. If not that then you have leaking valves, but that is not likely considering it is a fresh motor and all are pretty close in numbers.

That is tell tale TIG IMO.

There is alot that governs what boost you can run on a compression motor and how much hp it will make. High lift cam has nothing to do with the equation as it is all about seat timing and head flow. I am running afr heads which flow very well over .600 lift. If I was running some other head I probably would not run that much lift. Intercooled and meth injection I would imagine 12 psi being pretty safe depending on whether or not the intercooler was properly sized and the tune was good. It is all about design and engine management IMO.

Not sure but SD said something about you having to let him drive your car or something like that. I'll check on it.

Matt is right. What I did on my monte when I was running alky and still had the stock steel tank was to weld a new suction pipe in so I could use AN fuel line from there.

You can have the right bearing clearance and still not have proper crush on the bearing which will cause the bearing to fail. But with an attitude like that I'm DONE with trying to help.

Well the best rods you can get are Oliver and Carillo. The best cranks include Cola, Crower, Callies, Lunati, Eagle The best pistons as far as I am concerned are JE as to fit, finish and balance. Mahle, lunati, arias, trw, manley, probe, are others that make fine parts. Cylinder heads; By far the best is AFR, then Brodix and DART IMO. Depending on what fuel type your running and what your intended purpose is will dictate what parts you want to assemble. You building it yourself?

Wow that is great. I was amazed that I was able to build 5psi of boost under no load. What build specs do you have on that new 415 motor?

Truer words have never been spoken!!!

The ohio crank deals show the 383 for about $2400 but uses a gm 4 bolt block where for $600 more you can get the 406 with the dart block. The 400 is the way to go there, much better foundation and uses the same 5140 crank. I'd call these guys, they can put together a deal also. Lewis doesn't list any engines packages. Sallee was bought out by Gilbert, not showing prices AFAIK. Herbert base price is $3295 and goes up to $7000 for only a 425hp engine, hardly worth that much money for that much HP or lack thereof IMO. Summit, well, you pay for advertising IMO. I don't buy much of anything from summit. CNC motorsports on EBAY is cheap and has good quality stuff like EAGLE and can put together a cheap combo. I have bought from them before.

One thing for sure is that "Can't" never did anything. First thing you have to do is change your attitude to I "CAN". Then do it!

EBAY sent me two messages saying he was using phishing techniques to capture would be bidder info. Scammer!!!! My norton firewall stopped him dead in his tracks anyway.

I have no noticeable blowby. Both valve covers are vented and you can feel nothing coming out of them. I will play with it some more this weekend and see what I can get going. I need to finish tig welding up the 3" stainless exhaust as right now I just have the down pipes on and they exit right by the trans. Debating on whether or not to run mufflers. I have two race mufflers, flex bellows and all the piping. Then I need to finish the electrical wiring and put in my timing retard and boost signal to my msd box. Starting to look as though I would rather have MS to control the spark when I think about the timing it takes to make it work. The water injection is a stainless 2 gallon tank so I am thinking of running methanol (which I have alot of) instead of water in that. I have 2 barrels of race gas so I'll put in the 118 and drive it on that to start with since the wastegates are at 16psi. I think I'll just use the greddy profec EO1 and LM1 to see where the AFR's are at and then take that off to use on the z since I plan on putting 5psi wastegate on that. Then I can use the boost controller to run that boost up.

The rings in a turbo are somewhat like piston rings, when you get piston rings hot they loose tension against the cylinder walls and tend to use alot of oil. Same goes for turbo seals. That is why they make turbo timers for gas turbo cars.

They don't start well and mine at least is somewhat lazy. My art carr 4000 stall converter works very well though. I am trying both, big turbine, 10:1 motor on pump gas intercooled. We will see how us high altitude guys fair in drivability and peak hp.