dr_hunt

there is a thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109864 In that thread is a complete schematic of the entire frame and dimensions, I'm not sure if it's a 260 or a 240 and I'm not sure of the differences between the two, but it may be what you need.

Well, you won't need alot of tire IMO to hook that. I'm planting about 577rwhp and I'm running an 9 inch wide slick. However, you may want more later and the "look" of a pro-street car so you'll have to decide what width to go with depending on what wheels you have.

Depends on the gear drive, on mine, all 3, the pointed end is on one shaft only, anyway if you put it in wrong on mine anyway you can't get the timing cover to fit flush, which puts the big gear on the left side as your facing the block. That's the way mine are anyway. I have a tope gear, idler gears, thrust washer, roller cam thrust button, cam lock plate NIB if you need it. It came without the crank gear and they just sent me a new one.

Oh man, that is one nice car! I'm jealous! What do you plan for that thing in terms of mods? Work it baby, Work it!

rdv88, what motor are you using and how much HP do you think you'll be making?

If you re-use the old pan you have to take a ball peen hammer and beat the bolt hole area back down, look at the pan and you'll see what I mean. The area around the bolt hole pulls and keeps the rest of the pan from contacting the gasket. Also, silicone the gaset to the block, lightly, and the pan lightly, the end gaskets and the rail gasket are leak points as well, lightly silicone both sides and joints, should be fine.

And when your she's at home, she's eating krispy kreme's by the boxfull! LOL 250 lbs being a vegetarian!

I think he's talking transmission not oil pan on the motor. dipstick tube, servo, there are pressure port fittings as well, a host of things. I had one like that once I fixed one leak I found that I had yet another.

Well, my boys z car is in paint prison so I can't measure it, otherwise I would, but I run a detroit locker, lightened and 4.30 gears with a 29.5x9x15 slick. It needs more rubber on the ground but that's later. It depends on what wheels he plans on using as to what the rear ends up measuring. Your running alot of rubber which matches the mondo HP your trying to plant, he might be running less motor and run less tire, so he needs to figure out what tire/wheel combination he plans on running and how he wants it to fit under the car, with flares or without. Your information was very informative anyway, so I think he has a good start even though he had to put up with us making alittle bit of fun out of the post.

Thank you for the compliments, you guys should PM larry and tell him what a complete slacker he is. Ha ha, he's standing and looking over my shoulder and complaining that he can't defend himself. I love it.

I'll post 'em as soon as I get 'em.

Larry is a complete slacker, took vids and didn't bring the cable to connect to the computer. So, you'll just have to wait. 6 seconds was winning time and nearest competitor was in the 8's. I have to tell you all, it is one mean thing to drive, and I will be installing power steering today. No more manual for me in the mud. Stay tuned for vids and pic's of the mud racing action! Oh, and tell larry to hurry up and get home.

Cool, so when do Dan and I get a raise?

Nope, never been done before, in fact I think you'll be the first one to do it.

Oh, go ahead and cut the strut tower, we need to see if it will work, then we'll know for sure. I vote cut it and then fab the cage.

yeah, a complete sleeper, that's for sure!

Some decent heads will boost the low end and raise the peak HP, the biggest gains should be in TQ. You will see more area under the curve, which means alot. Peak dyno numbers don't mean squat. 1100rwhp 'stangs here in alb are only running 10.80's in the 1/4, so you can see that peak #'s don't mean much. As for how much, probably 50hp with aftermarket heads. But as grumpy says, it's the total package that counts, so if you were going to do a bottom end, then I'd add better heads. Till then run what you have. I'd bet that car kicks some booty on the street??!! IMO the 305 heads are junk, prone to cracking, restrictive flow, small valves, complete waste of time and energy given what else is available today. Even some 882 castings would be better IMO.

Damn, that sucks and me without $$$ laying around. I've always wanted another car and that one is nice, but as it ism I have 8 around here already, so I really don't need it. Hmmm, trades?? Ahh, I got it donate it and take it off your taxes, I'm a charitable case in of myself, just ask my ex's! I need help, well, that's what they say anyway....

The gear drive is the same ans most timing chains. Has a dot on the cam gear and one on the drive gear. There should be a copper spacer to go underneath the cam gear inbetween the block. If you want it to last get a big block cam oil galley pipe plug, they have a small oil hole in it that will spray oil on the back of the cam gear and keep it all well lubed. Put it in the center (main/rod/cam) oil galley. The two dots have to line up with the cam at the 6 o'clock position and the crank at the 12 o'clock position, then the idler gears go in and you check cam timing. Degreeing is handled by offset bushings on the cam, hopefully you got those and the lock plate that goes underneath the bolts, holds the bushings in and also if your using a roller cam you'll want to use a thrust button or bearing there. There are several types of those, roller bearing, aluminum and plastic. Stay away from the plastic, they don't live very long. When you get it degreed, put the lock plate under the bolts, torque (25 ft-lb i think) and then bend the lock tabs over the sides and top of the bolt. If the lock plate is used, you might want to get a new one at autozone or something, they sell them, otherwise the tabs may break off. The idler gears have a pointed end on the shafts, that goes towards the block. Sometime the block casting numbers have to be ground off in the area that it rests so that it goes in all the way, depends on brand though. If your block has been line honed or bored you may find that a gear drive wont' work, they make one for that application, at least I think pete jackson, moroso and cloyes do.

Oh, man I can't stop laughing! The imagination here is awesome! Mike you take a joke well.

Your correct the buick has a different bolt pattern. The 4.3 is as condusive to boosting as is the sbc, basically the same engine minus 2 cylinders. The even fire crank and the odd fire crank both work fine. They make an even fire steel aftermarket crank, I think it's LA enterprises. The odd fire is cheaper in steel. You can install or at least I've seen 4 bolt caps installed on the 4.3 block, don't know how it worked though. Pistons are the same, rods are basiclly the same, just narrower by .050 or so, easy for a competent machine shop to narrow properly. If you go with the money is no object theme, they manufacture rods for that application. I'd like to see it work.