dr_hunt

You'll do fine. Is that UBC or UDC inspector and what's the difference?

Well, stuff happens, could have been worse. When encountering problems such as this it is often wise to scrap the block even if the main wasn't broken and start anew since the time, $$$ and aggravation are often not worth it. Stock blocks are fine for the most part, but like grumpy says, the aftermarket blocks are better.

That's about a 450HP motor at the flywheel! More of a midrange motor, you could extract some more HP but it's going to be at higher rpm. If you want more HP at the same rpm, your going to have to add cubic inches. If you want more HP out of that combo, your going to need more cylinder head, more cam and more carb. HR cams start to fall off at 6K maybe 6300, so the rev kit is necessary to go much higher than that IMO.

IMO if you stick with a hydraulic roller, your going to net at most a 20 to 30HP gain with existing heads over what you've got now. If you switch to AFR's, then you'll pick up an additional 20 to 30HP max. The 220's are probably a better choice if the rpm range is up there. If your going to stay HR then look at AFR rev kit for HR cams, it works, I've used them before. A solid roller will necessitate a spring/retainer/keeper change and IMO a valve change as well unless your running manley race valves or ferrea's, so your looking at valve job and resurfacing the head at a min, maybe guides, so If your contemplating that then you should seriously look at buying some new heads vs. dumping more cash into what you've got. But it's the total package that counts, what CR, what headers, what intake, what carb/EFI, what spark generator, stall converter, trans and rear gear.

You need a thin straight edge to check cam tunnel straightness or if the block has been align honed, you can measure from the main saddles down to the cam bearing saddles. A cam turning freely in the bores doesn't mean much since the cam was probably lubed. You could have .00025 clearance on one journal and .0025 on the rest and never know it. At least that's been my experience. I had a 400sbc that was trashing bearings in 20 miles, same thing, cam turned fine, oil holes proper, etc. Finally, after the second time I sent it up to Edwards and had them check it, it was out .002 from front to back, cam tunnel bored it, never had another problem. This type of problem is precisely why I go dart blocks, I think I ended up with $1500 in machine work in that block by the time it was all said and done.

called carcass walk, usually means the air pressure is too low. Tire pressure is an individual car thing, not a general guideline. skinnier tires require more air than wide tires, F=P*A.

And what is your idea of proper cam bearing installation as far as the oil hole is concerned? Just FYI, dart uses a three oil hole cam bearing, one hole at 10AM, one at 2PM and one at 5PM looking at the front of the block with the intake side up. Oil can't form a wedge when the oil hole is at the 6 o'clock position, it needs to be prior to loading at the 2 o'clock position. I've experienced some problems in SBC's in the past that was related to cam tunnel bore misalignment, did you check that?

This is easy. Get on clean smooth pavement, spin em on clean pavement and then get out and see the contact patch on the pavement. Heavy black in the center, too much air. Heavy black at the edges, not enough air. Nice even black all the way across, just right. I run 11 psi in a 9x29.5x15 slick in the z. 19 is way too much even for a 7 inch slick in a 3800 lb car based on my experience with my Monte SS.

I wish you all that are contemplating a bike as an alternative form of transportation would stop and think about all the people that you know or heard of that have been in an accident and then think or count how many were on bikes and survived as compared to a car. My little buddy friend, kind of surrogate son, wants a bike. I told him again today, that I'd pay for his gas if he'd stay off of one!!! I kind of like the little turd, he's an NCAA all american pole vaulter and 21 years old, junior in college, has so much to do, to be cut down early cause of a bike accident.

Not if you have the chuck norris signature valve covers! They add 1000Hp by themselves.

I buy bulk diesel, typically 2000 gallons/month and I got 1000 gallons yesterday for $2.82/gallon and my bulk supplier is telling me that $3.50 a gallon is where it's going to level off at, so just accept it. Why, who cares, you can't do anything about it. Me, I just raise my prices like everyone else, my freight charge is up to $4.25 a loaded mile or $100 an hour depending on whether it's highway or rural roads. My landscape rock is up from $30/yd last year to $35/yd this year and if this keeps going up, will be $37/yd by mid summer. Time to conserve, drive less and be smart about grouping tasks when you do drive. I know I drive less in my personal vehicle, deliver more quantity per load now than before in my commercial trucks. Before some people would order like 10-12 yards and I can haul 24 yards, now everyone orders 20-24 since the frieght is the same. Race gas here is up to $8/gallon and alky is still $2/gal. Go figure.

I work on and drive my boys z and I'm a legend in my own mind!

I think Alb was rated number two recently in some magazine as the best place to live. Can't remember the magazine name, but there are alot of nice places, it's just what tickles your fancy.

And FYI the c15 cat acert engines are experiencing alot of turbo failures from what I've heard. The acert engine is designed for emissions compliance.

IMO that's not a quick fix it type problem. Sounds like you have bearings seizing up for whatever reason. Your going to need a complete rebuild and possibly some hard parts as well if you plan on keeping that transmission. It looks to me like the T56 is really the way to go, but that in itself is work isn't it and not to mention $$$. Oh, the cost of these toys!

Scottie, we need more power! Captain, I'm giving you all she's got right now! Scottie, turn up the warp boost NOW!! All right Captain, but I don't know how much you can stand!!!

'74 260z is in paint jail getting a Kandy Apple Red paint job with traditional color flames, I have no idea what that will look like in the end, which could be a year from now. I hope not but that's the way it goes. Going to tub it and go 4 link. Then it's going to get more motor, more cage and certified. Probably a 428 cubic inch sbc with 18 degree heads on alky again, should get some 8's on motor with that. '85 Monte SS is awaiting the Banks TT350 install. Engine is built. Powerglide is waiting. Needs Powerglide yoke for a 1350 series ujoint and a custom driveline built. Also needs a Thaagard custom intercooler. It's waiting for it's turn in the shop since the DSM is occupying that space. I have everything to put that car together. If I can get it done then I might take it to SEZ. '33 dodge is outside the shop getting finished. Frame needs some supports, rest of the cage, steering, brakes, electrical, fuel, drivelines. Other than that it's ready, ha ha. '97 dodge diesel, A/C died, so there's $500 down the pooper. '99 dodge diesel, going to need transfer case rebuilt soon, but it's got 330,000 miles on it. '04 dodge diesel, sitting in the garage. '92 S-10, needs a good home, has great A/C that was just redone, 4.3 liter V-6, somebody give me $1000 and it's yours.

Wow, that's hauling _ss!! At SEZ I did a 6.21 so he's definately in the 9's!!!

Well, we have 2 race cars and are building the '33 dodge mud bog truck. Took me all day to build a lower pitman arm out of 3/4 inch plate. Those beveled holes are a _itch to make just right. I shoot archery, I have a matthews ultra 2, z max and my boy has the matthews mustang. I shoot alot of guns, hunt everything that shits, flies or walks, ride horses (we now have 3), 4 wheelers(2), fishing boat, work, work, work. TV is almost non existant. The internet, use EBAY to buy and sell things and of course hybrid z where all the cool guys hang out! If I get another hobby it'll be a jet boat or a v-drive boat so we can go to the lake and ski.

If you really want to see how air flow acts on the windshield, take some tape and some package ribbon, cut it into 4 inch long pieces and tape it to the windshield uniformly in horizontal lines across separated by about 4 inches going from bottom to top and side to side. Then take it for a drive, you'll be suprised to see what happens at about 35mph.

Precision racing components, PRC, there are in house sellers, like summit as well as a handfull or two others that are marketing their own h beam rods. Best bet is to sell 'em IMO, you'll probably never find the right rod.

I mic'd the crank last night and ordered (STD) King Alecular bearings for it. carshopinc.com had them in stock, supposedly. I've never bought from them before, but they listed all of them and the different sizes on their web store and made it easy to order exactly what I wanted. So, what did the crank mic at, was it round, and what bearing clearance are you planning on running?

There's a new .45 out that is 14 rounds, I can't remember the name but it was in my last issue of american rifleman. Glock is a quality piece, but no matter what your packing, it's still the shooter that does the shooting. I shot IPSC for years, and I prefer my 1911 Colt Enhanced that's been worked and is switch barrel .400 Corbon and .45 ACP and last I checked the 1911 was winning all the matches, whether a colt or a copy. I think that speaks for itself. Mine will feed a whole clip of empty cases which is my gun builders test of tests for feeding ramp mods. I've never tried a glock with a clip of empty cases. Nothing IMO can come close to the feel of a S&W revolver trigger, nothing! I own 3, all worked, custom pieces and I'd buy another if I had the need. But it's all about preferences, like engines I guess.

Cough, Cough, umm.................... Bleh:rolleyesg:

Terry, you got it. I have a 67 ford bronco rear end, that's a factory posi unit. It's got your name all over it.