dr_hunt

Simply fascinating, I think it's a must do in my lifetime, perhaps later this year.

I look for quality of workmanship and well though out design. I think that is the key to any shop car. Of couse it helps if it hauls a$$!

I wonder if he'll trade for rpg's?

So what is russia like? I want to go there and see it just to see it.

Ah, well, it looks like that may be the problem in the pinks motor. I cam degree would have revealed the same as what you found. When you custom order a grind, then it's custom order unless your using master cam lobes already in their library, which includes making the master lobes, both intake and exhaust. Hmm, 44 to 57 degrees of overlap would have a huge impact on how the motor runs up top under boost. Hmmmm.

Next time he hits you in the ribs, kick him in the nuts, tell him it's a reflex action, sorry!

I'd bet those spider gears were doing 200mph when they let go. I've seen some go through the rear cover on 10 bolt chevy's.

Send it back, have them give you another. Otherwise you'll be screwed.

Ok, pete, straight from hybridz crew, quit screwing around and do what the doc says. No more of that kind of BS, buy a riding mower! Get better! Doc

I think that the experiment could provide some usefull information regarding to the airflow movements and characteristics regarding the s30 chassis. This information, while not being truly scaled in comparison is not irrelevant compared to the real world, just not an apples to apples comparison at high speeds. The low speed airflow characteristics may change in relation to high speed airflow, but that has to be seen. Case in point would be the flow over the top of the car and the effects of spoilers. I'd be interested to see what the experiment reveals. Video would be really helpfull or at least pictures.

I met a gal that could get that accomplished once. But other than that, you are correct, the vacuum in the intake, assumes engine is running, will not suck fuel through the fuel system.

And they have hot women. Why all the ones here are so freaking huge I'll never know.

Not enough timing will produce the symptoms you describe as well.

The 350 diesel was an oldsmobile converted pile of crap. I've rebuilt several, but I guess that dates me and fred flintstone. They were low powered and is a converted gas block and heads. Pretty weak units IMO, I think you'd be better off sticking you head in the sand.

Ok guys, pardon me for my ignorance, but what exactly is an HVLP gun? Could you describe what the differences are and help me make a decision as to what to buy. It's time I started doing something these days. Thanks.

They come ready to go on the bottom end, the head studs is what you'll need though. The dart block can use a longer block thread length head stud, but it's not mandatory, you can use what you already have. Nice thing about aftermarket blocks, blind head bolt holes, so no more leaky head studs!!!!! It's the old cheap route that ended up costing more money than I thought. Normal, I think most of us have done that. Chaulk it up to "learning". If it cracked a cylinder then it seems logical to think that they were too thin in the first place, happens every now and then. Either get another good block or go aftermarket. What oversize are the pistons?

Well, they come ready for final honing for about 1800 for the dart little M with 4 bolt nodular caps, good to 1200+HP! If you want, you can get a race prepped CNC block for about $2300 I think. You have to add about $150 for the billet caps, good for 2000HP or some insane amount of HP anyway. The deck height is standard 9.025 so if you want less than that you'll have to have it decked. Also made, I think (World) is the tall deck, 9.325 deck height, good for the 454 cubic inch and 470+inch small block. You can also get raised (.391) cam location which is a great help when building strokers. You don't usually have a problem with rod/cam interference unless durations get over 250 with a roller cam, but in most cases a small base circle (.900 or less) is required to get rod/cam clearance. Typically most hipo engines have a deck height of about 9 to 9.005 in order to achieve .040 to .045 quench, which is desired IMO. You have to ponder the idea of having a standard bore, the ability to bore it .020, .030, .040, .060 and more all the way to 4.200 inches. So, unless you window the block, it'll last a long, long time, and be durable enough to handle all kinds of HP. So, in theory, you can start with a 350 and end up with a 380+ cubic inch motor in the end after a couple hundred thousand miles of fun. That or stroke it and get lots of cubes right off the bat. If you've ever thought of it, build a big inch motor with 9:1 compression and watch the smile that develops on your face everytime you start it up. It always comes down to $$$, but if your intended plans don't call for more than 600HP or so, then I'd go with a stock block, otherwise I'd go dart. I can take pictures of a stock block blown alky 350 that ran in a southwest supercharger series rail dragster, 6.90 at 202mph so it's not that the stock block can't take it, it's just that it takes alot of precision machine work to get it right and that's what makes the aftermarket blocks so appealing IMO, especially for the novice builder that doesn't know all the tricks to get the stock block to that point or has a machine shop with the knowledge and equipment and experience to do it either.

The 509 is the one you want, early model 2 bolt block. The 511 is the 4 bolt block, also desireable, the 817 is the late model 2 bolt block. My understanding from a buddy that worked at the GM foundry for new prototype motors, Joe Rakov, said way back when that the 509 and the 511 is the same mold, which is why I guess alot of people put 4 bolt caps on the 509 blocks. He said that the 817 was later, is alittle lighter, like 10lb mostly from the web area and is not the high nickel content. Could all be wrong, but that's what I've heard. Consequently I've seen performance motors built using all three blocks successfully so what was said befor about sonic testing is worth the nickel it costs.

Spoken like a TRUE GEARHEAD!!! LMAO! If you talking peak numbers I find that misleading, it's the area under the curve that moves the car, particularly the torque curve. On Racing southwest forum there has been these two dudes pissing back and forth about the fact that they laid down over 1000 rwhp on the dyno and which one is faster yada yada, your mama and all that kind of drama. Well, initially I was rather impressed, here are turbo v8 motors, one running 29psi, the other 30psi, in mustangs laying down 1000rwhp, should be good for 8's right!???? Wrong, one car ran 11.1 @134 and the other has ran 10.8@136. I was like oh, well, **** I guess the 1000rwhp doesn't mean shat!!! I was dissappointed the first time I went to the dyno. 389rwhp and 412rwtq, but that was an old 406 combo with iron heads and a small .630 roller cam. The roller cam was way too big for the heads, even though the duration was 250/260, the sportsman 2 heads don't flow very well over .550 lift. Changing to AFR heads and another cam netted about 458RWHP and 530rwtq peak numbers and peak torque at 4900 and peak hp at 6000. Hard to beat those AFR's.

Yeah, the body guy knows nothing but how they "look", he thought that'd look cool. Anyway, I thought of painting it white and calling it the tiger woods special, maybe put titleist on the sides and go hunt for some sponsor money, but it is a car so I thought I'd be more traditional. I'll order the front air dam, the carbon fiber one next week from MSA, use my 50 gift certificate.

Corzette is over there, maybe you could get him to smuggle parts back. Welcome!

Quote: Going for the sleeper effect huh? I don't think you'll be fooling anyone!! LOL Quote: Hummn. Can you see over that scoop? Reminds me of the musclecar boys with their tunnel ram setups. Guess you really don't need to see much when you are just concentrating on a straight line..... I want it to look good, I'm sure the sound of that mini V8 kind of gives it away, huh? Your right, I can't see over the scoop at all when the front wheels are a foot off the ground for the first 50 to 60 feet. Scares the crap out of me at times!