dr_hunt

Checked it out at 6AM today, Ohm'd out the magnetic pickup, fine. disconnected the dizzy and coil wire, shorted the dizzy wires and yup, had spark, so the coil and box are fine. Took off the cap and low and behold the rotor screws came out and broke the reluctor. Box is fine, dizzy was brand new, had 2 mud races on it. Of course the rotor is messed up too. Ordered new reluctor and rotor off ebay this AM, should be here wednesday along with my Ideal heated knife for cutting/grooving tires. The heated knife will cut the boggers on the back and regroove my semi trailer tires, well, the ones that say regroovable anyway.

Yeah, it's got the rubber mounts on the box and the coil. Going to check it today to see if the magnetic pickup in the dizzy is out, or the box is out. I've had questions about that box for awile now, been doing what I thought were weird things.

My MSD7AL2 took a crap today, no voltaget to the coil coming out of the box. It was running and I was tuning a gas carb for a race next saturday and it died, that's it, no fire. F'n crap boxes I tell you, this will be the second time MSD has rebuilt this box in 5 years of drag racing. I'm getting on ebay and buying a magneto, screw it.

Cool, just remember little pulley on top, big one on the bottom, and don't forget the NOS! Waiting to hear the results.

Run like hell, before it's too late. Just kidding. Some things in life are wonderfull. If it's real, it'll last, remember that before you run out and buy a ring.

I had to vote sbc, but I almost went BBC.

Just as it says, post your vote, this is not secret. Voice your opinion, and keep it sane. We need dependable high level power. Just trying to get a feel for what the masses want to see and what the collaborative effort can do if done right in a hybridz group effort build for a house car. Thanks, Doc

The big can is water injection system that is only on during boost, has fogger type nozzles if it's the same as mine. Nice setup, won't fit in the z though, but I'd give you $1500 for it.

WOW! All I can say.. I run a flowed 800 cfm carb on a 350, no hesistation from an idle to WOT. If it's tuned right even a 950 will work and you won't be under carbed.

The banks system won't fit in the z without cutting the strut towers. They would fit in a tube chassie'd car, but that's against turbomeisters rules on turbo v8's. Better just sell that to me so I can do two cars instead of one.

Ok, we're going to have to ban you for not posting a thread allowing other hybridz members the opportunity to jump on this really bad deal. Your actions were self centered and your greed kept you from screaming at the top of your lungs what a sweet deal this was and that they were selling it way too cheap. Those actions are unbecoming of well, um, uh, so, yeah, damn..... OK, so you got a smokin' deal Congrats! What kind of banks system? I was wondering if it was the same as mine, blow through carb. Oh, and.

As one older old bastard to the younger old bastard, HAPPY BIRTHDAY! As a gift, you get to ban yourself!

a reverse lockout is pretty much standard on all aftermarket shifters as it is a requirement of NHRA and IHRA and I'm sure some road sactioning bodies. The oil leak is probably not the crank, if it's a sbc, they are notorious for that, but it can be made not to leak.

It has the function and the neutral safety switch as well. What I don't like is having to squeeze a lever before shifting from second to third, then if something jars you like a hard shift, you can then bump it into neutral. Reverse is locked out well. It's a great powerglide shifter though. I get them for about 80 to 120 bucks complete, one was NIB for 90 bucks.

Ebay for a shifter. I have the hurst quarter stick, three of them actually. Two for the glide and one for the th350. I'd rather have another shifter for the three speed, one that is a true ratchet shifter. If it's severe it would be flywheel trans related although I lost a balancer once, it vibrates alot without one, but that is without one. If yours is still on I'd suspect the wrong flywheel or what I've run into with the trans.

Where in NM, we need details. I had a similar problem with a trans and a new motor I built, had horrible vibration above 3500 rpm. When we disconnected the torque converter from the flexplate, pushed it back, started the car, the vibration was gone. changed transmissions, vibration went away.

Well, here are a few questions; What energy can be derived from an inert gas in combution? What is the effect of an inert gas in combustion? What chemical compounds does an inert gas make during combustion? The answers are pretty simple. 1. Zero 2. the effect is less room for air/fuel mixture, so lowers combution temp by occupying space that would normally be taken by air/fuel. and 3. None So, if your inserting inert gas in your intake charge, you have no energy derived from it, less air/fuel to burn, and no chemical compounds to form. Therefore you get less power per ignition stroke since it doesn't burn, less power per ignition stroke since there is less air/fuel in the cylinder and the most important, lower emissions. The key words in the quote are "heavy load conditions". Simply, that can not be confused with cruising down the highway at light throttle. But even more important, if it is "on" at any time, your loosing power, period. So in a nutshell you loose performance any time it is "on". You can run what you want, the key to power is getting mixture into the cylinder, having an efficient combustion and getting the burned mixture out of the cylinder. All in the most efficient manner possible.

Need more pics and an update on this nice project.

Talked to the body shop guy this AM, they are ready to start on the z, needs the front air dam. We will take over the front air dam this afternoon. I have my fingers crossed that this thing gets done in the next week. You think?

I had and ran Edelbrocks varijection system. A buddy has it on his truck but doesn't use it. FYI my gale banks TT system has water injection, look at the blue nozzles in the turbo inlets. boost pressure enters the top of a 3 gallon tank and pushes water out the bottom throught the nozzles into the inlets of the turbo's. Seems kind of scary to me but the nozzles are a fogger type. We'll see if I even use that system.

The distributor that sells race gas says 111 is good up to 16:1 motors and that c-16, (116 octane?) is preferred by turbo and blown cars and is good for alot more, although they didn't say how much more. Here at least, they don't carry it on hand. I had to order a drum, but I did get a good price. I'll be selling it locally for $10/gallon seeing as how the 111 goes for $9.80/gallon.

Yeah, those "other" chemicals are totally safe and available at the grocery store, right next to palmolive dish soap.... The amount of HP increase that your going to realize with additives is minimal and IMO not going to be practical as a daily all the time usage type of thing. If you dispute that post some dyno charts showing the big increases. A fuel change from gas to alcohol or nitro/alcohol is significant in terms of Hp gains! I guess that is why there are commercially sold alcohol injection and water injection kits. What your going to try to save in lieu of buying race gas is minimal for the amount of gasoline and time, which chould include your trips to various stores to purchase said chemical that your using trying to figure out how not to pay $6.80/gallon for C-16 or $2/gallon for methanol. Actually I just bought a 55 gallon drum of C16 for $340, so that's about $6.18/gallon. Locally it's $9.80/gallon for 111 octane VP. You either have a street car or a race car, it comes down to that. ZGAD, Scottie and others have both but they don't run race gas and race tune on the street everyday either. The cars in question are also not their daily driver that they depend on to go to work in everyday. I'm going to have the same and my greddy profec EO-1 will store a boost level for pump gas and one for race gas on my TT350, it's just that simple. But if your really in the quest, maybe you forgot about mixing race gas with premium unleaded, instead of all those other concoctions. The real gains are to be found in the engine build/modification area if your going to stick with pump gas, because there is a limit to what you can boost or compress pump gas, with cylinder head(s) being the number one area of improvement. There is no magical chemical additive that you can buy and use on a regular basis, run everyday, and be safe with chemical handling and/or damage effects to your fuel system with prolonged use, with the exception of race gas. Methanol IMO requires more maintenance and is not trouble free. If there were such a chemical, you would be buying it not wondering how to "get it done" and "if it will work". But on the other hand give it a try and tell us how much money it took and if it works or not. I'll stick with race gas and methanol, not taking chances with detonation ruining my motor cause it didn't work or I didn't put enough in.

TheNeedforZ, Where is this link you so fondly talk about? Is it a dcr or scr calculator?

That was big until they discovered that fuel management is the key to low emissions. EGR is total junk IMO.