TheNeedForZ

What's the reason that manufacturers use batch firing at higher rpm? Does all time sequential injection provide any benefits? Thanks

Yes, like Nismo280zEd said, Dizzy = distributor. See, this is why you guys shouldn't seperate from the rest of Canada, you guys need us to explain things

gorgeous looking car. The image link on the eBay site is a bit messed up,it only show the full size image of the side view.

In the test you mentioned, the centerline of the car has to be vertical at all times. Just by dropping it, it is not going to stay vertical since the car is asymmetric in terms of drag, even if you put a majority of weight in the front.

It can be easy or not easy depending on how resourceful one is at solving the problems. You wind the string with an electric motor that is reduced by gearing, one from a toy car will do since the gear ratio limit the max rpm, that takes care of repeatability. The winding pulley can be made with various diameter, that will give you different speed. Part of the string includes a spring/elastic band, the extended length can be measured once it reaches steady speed. The string will be moving but a digital camera or video can be used to make a record. The speed and stretch can be measured on the video. If you put a ruler next to the string when you make the video, then it is even easier to measure. To be able to see the fluid streams, can add solid particles that has density similar to water and then add salt or alcohol to the water to match the density. Then the particles will confront to the fluid. There you go, nothing complicated.

It has been talked about. I explained why it won't work. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110413&page=2

Olderthanme, You can approach the complexity and Reynold number problem by moving the model in the fluid, i.e. pulling the model with a string/pulley in a long, transparent water trough. You won't have to make the fluid circulate in such system, and the higher density of fluid will result in better a Reynold number.

Him: "Oh, i'ts stock. I'ts going to stay stock." Should've ended the conversation at this point and turn around and walk away so he become the one that feels "dumped." Us, them, it's just never meant to be. I always tell purists that my Z cars were already rusted out/patched up/molested when I got them so I never had a chance to be stock in the first place...it's true but it's a pretty good excuse too.

Good find, thanks for sharing.

(shakes head) SC uses crankshaft power, turbo uses exhaust power which is originally "wasted". Generally 30 out of 100 hp gained by SC is wasted compared to 5~10 hp loss per 100hp gained by Turbo.

BMW V12 is also aluminium IIRC

If you are going to use free floating pins, don't forget to bush the small bore and drill oil hole(s) before the balance.

The method I described is actually very simple and works in all situations, no matter what aero mods has been added to the car. I dunno what CFD is but apparently you want people to ask so I humbly ask you : what is CFD?

When measuring the big/small ends of the rod, the rod must be in a horizontal position(centerline should be horizontal). I don't see a provision for doing that so...how are you going to make sure it is horizontal?

I doubt frictional losses can be controlled to be a constant since rpm changes with speed, and frictional losses may not be linearly proportional to rpm. So there is no way to really isolate internal frictional losses even if you carry out all your experiments in one gear. However there is a way around this internal frictional thing. If you go to a dyno or jack up your car so the rear wheels do not touch ground and "run" the car at say 50mph in 3rd gear, and the horsepower needed is "A". Then "A" means horsepower needed to overcome internal frictioal losses when car is operated at given condition(50mph,3rd gear) Now you actually run your car on the road at 50mph in 3rd gear, and the horsepower needed is "B" then "B" equals to "A" plus "horsepower loss in air drag" horsepower loss in air drag at 50mph(gear becomes irrelevent now) = B - A, call it C. Then use P = FV , F = P/V = C/V drag at 50mph = "power loss in air drag at 50mph" divided by "speed 50mph". As long as you use corresponding units, they'll cancel out and give you a number CLOSE to actual air drag. Why is the number close? because if you do the test on the dyno, the friction includes dyno and rear wheels/tire but excludes front wheel/tire friction. If you do it by jacking up the rear wheel, then friction includes rear wheel but excludes rear tire-to-ground friction, and front wheel/tire friction.

Maybe you really should use water + lexan plates for this project.

With helium, you won't save any rotating mass because gas inside a tire is not attached to tire walls so it does not rotate with the tire. Structural rim+tire has been done http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweel

Iskone are you turning into a wuss now? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110711&highlight=girls I like Hayao Miyazaki's movies, most of them good, some of them great. Favorite Miyazaki movie = Nausicaa of the valley of the wind.

Power = Force X Velocity If vehicle velocity is constant and instantaneous power is known(from fuel consumption) then yes Force can be calculated but that force will be the sum of air drag + all frictional losses.

Flour is not fine enough to comply with air stream in that kind of wind. I was going to suggest heating up mineral oil for the smoke but then I though about using an incense. Burning an incense will give you a very controllable stream of smoke. If one is not visible enough you can burn more; it's cheap too. You can get incense in many places, mainly those new-age aromatherapy stores. That or a Buddhist temple.

Nitrous oxide = N2O, not NO2

He doesn't know cuz he comes from the French side of Canada

RB also boasts better abraision resistance, you can see a bunch of comparision experiment videos on their site. RB and POR15 are both moisture cured(you can paint over fine rust). But RB does not require extensive surface prep as long as surface is free of oil. RB is UV resistant, you can primer your car with RB and park it/drive it as is. It does not require special top coat like POR15; you can put any top coat on RB as long as you follow their instructions.

interesting. Wikipedia explains what "metamaterial" is : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metamaterial

I think it's better to have the injectors properly serviced. They use an ultrasonic tank to clean injectors. After the injectors are cleaned/flow tested, then make sure ALL electrical connections are clean. I can email you the 280Z fuel injection book(77 pages) and a diagram a member drew that tells you how to make the engine run richer/leaner by adjusting the AFM. Just pm me your email address.