TheNeedForZ

You know that makes me nervous too cuz I spill BS all the time. Do you have a link of me saying something embarassing that you kept a record of? COOL : scrutiny meter lo[-----|---------]hi NOT COOL : scrutiny meter lo[-------------|-]hi

The fastest, cheapest, easiest way to get into low 12~13 sec in the 1/4 is to travel down a steep slope. If going down vertically, it will be a 9 second car. Other than that....wet shot nitrous?

There are two ways an engine can make sound, thru exhaust and intake. When most people think the exhaust is totally responsible for the sound, in fact, the intake were a major part of the equation. The exotic engines have an intake that is acoustic engineered to give a certain characteristics. It's part of the marketing really. Some Porsche sportscars and some domestic truck have their intakes acoustically(?) engineered to give their distictive noises. So the real sound maker is not just the cylinders, but intake AND exhaust. About flat plane crankshaft/cross plane crankshaft....cross plane crankshaft have two(out of eight) exhaust pulses unevenly spaced periodically while the flat plane crankshaft give evenly spaced exhaust pulses. The overlap exhaust is what gives the "American V8" it's distinctive grumble; The evenly spaced exhaust pulses are what make the exotic engine sound like two 4 cylinder engines. If you want a special sound like that of an exotic engine, you need more than just RPM. I think some aftermarket crank makers can do flat plane, now you just need some acoustic engineering

Anytime when there is excess hydrocarbon in the combustion, there will be HC. Depending on how hot the combustion and how combustable the excess HC is, some of that excess HC will be burned into CO. The bottom line is, excess hydrocarbon(fuel or oil) always lead to incomplete combustion; incomplete combustion leads to higher HC/CO reading. Lean burn is associated with higher NOx reading.

sir_daniel, I am not a fan of S130 but your car is one exception. The green color looks just right and the lines are very straight and clean. What is that blue handle thing on the car? Some kind of bodywork jig?

That one goes right into the national museum of modern redneck arts.

Ethanol reacts slowly with oxygen in air to form acetic acid. Although that is the content of vinegar, strong acetic acid is pretty corrosive; pure acetic acid can even dissolve body tissue and polymers. Maybe that's why you need a special vehicle(FFV) to run the special gas. However, I suppose they added reagents in the ethanol fuel to surpress oxidation.

great job, I haven't seen your Z on the streets of Richmond before. If you see a deep blue VW jetta honking at you one day...that would be me

what magazine are you talking about?

The mower have no enrichment, the nitrous probably just lean it out too much.

(looking at the hood scoop) It's definitely sucking.

I weighed mine (off of a 240Z, includes headlight bucket), it is 17lbs each.

Muriatic acid can eat away both rust and metal but it is not a degreaser. The tank rust is soaked in gasoline and gunk, it protects the rust from getting into contact with the acid. Hot tank will do a better job. The chemical can't do its job if it doesn't make contact with the rust.

I think he meant cast vs forged, since hypereutetic pistons are cast as well.

See what happens when you ask about something out of ordinary? My two cents are that if you want to use gasoline that is less than detonation resistant, you should make up for the loss in detonation resistance from other departments, like homogeneity of mixture, quench, COOLING, location/duration of spark, coating for exhaust valves/exhaust port walls, use a higher pressure radiator cap, change coolant or coolant paths, maybe even construct oil squirters to help cool the pistons. Most of those things are one time expense only so their benefit don't wear out over time and you get to keep those benefits as long as you are using the same bottom end. What naysayer don't understand is that there is no such restriction as an 87octane turbo v8 because one can always go higher in oct numbers. So the real name of the project is "I did everything I can to stop detonation, now let's see if I can get a way with using 87." Sounds like an interesting project. In the end, you'll be very satisfied whatever the outcomes are, I think.

I am on the same boat as those guys told by their shops to "bring in everything" for a balance job. The shop I went to was a very reputable shop that has been around for some 50+ years and they said I should bring in everything for the balance job after I told them about the whole "I6 is internally balanced" story. Maybe what the shops were after is a level of finer balance higher than that of the stock job.

I'd say the spark plugs is giving you the problem, have you pulled the spark plugs to see if they are dirty or check their heat range? Might want to use plugs in the colder range. read about heat range of spark plugs here : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plugs#heat_range

I don't understand, it's not even that funny. Then again nowadays if someone make a Brokeback mountain spoof and people go crazy.

1. the engine component forum, under Turbo/supercharger 2. dunno 3. just like 280ZXT wheels but with a larger slot for cylinder#1 4. Pallnet? 5. Romulator this site belongs to a member here, has good info, you just need to find it. http://www.redz31.com/ http://forum.ztechz.net/ Your search function doesn't work?

congrats, you found a car to start your project with. Up in Canada, cheap and nice project Z's are so hard to find. My first project 280Z is worse than yours and I actually need to find a 260Z car shell(no other parts) to transplant all parts from the 280 to 260.

I'd say totally custom heads since all intake valve ports(large) and exhaust valve ports(small) must switch place. If they use the head as is then the engine will not make much HP.

The diff mentioned is a viscous LSD from a special edition "Shiro" 300ZX. They only came in pearl white, including the wheel rims. If yours came in a red car, chances are it is not a special edition Shiro diff. It's a very desirable clutch type LSD(3.7:1). They are direct bolt in but they can also be upgraded to use CV joints to handle more torque. Search for "300zx LSD", "CV joint" and you'll see.

LOL YES YOU DO. This is what a carbon-zinc battery look like : http://img.ebigchina.com/cdimg/124443/1087424/0/1097409572.jpg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon-zinc_battery If a battery looks like that and is NOT alkaline then it is a carbon-zinc bat.. They usually have a protective steel shell, remove that and you'll see another layer of metal, that is zinc. Try to strip spent batteries only, unless you are careful enough to avoid a short circuit.

300F is only 150 celsius. That's is pretty close to the temperature(110 celsius?) a head sees when running on an engine. Unless you are talking about 3000F. No...can't be 3000F, aluminum melts before that.

A member here has done something like that before but I cannot remember who it was. He removed the Z31 MAF sensor component and put it into a larger pipe housing. The car will not have problem idling or normal driving *IF* the ecu always provide fuel according to MAF reading. The question is that since all air speed is reduced by half, will MAF reading still be accurate at low air flow?