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TheNeedForZ

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Everything posted by TheNeedForZ

  1. Get your injectors cleaned before you do something else...
  2. Nice writeup, good to know. I have a pair of S12W(4 equally large pistons) not installed yet .
  3. Once you painted the bay with RB, there is a time limit within which you can paint over it(with either another coat of RB or regular paint) as long as the first coat has "dried". If you waited pass that time limit, the paint surface of RB becomes too hard and slick and you need to scuff the surface for additional coats. The thermal limit of RB is said to be 150*C or 300*F IIRC. The engine bay shouldn't be that hot at all. They recommend 2 coats and their square footage is calculated based on that as well, if they say 1 quart is good for 50sq ft. they mean 2 coats on 50sq ft. My project Z car is painted head to tail with RB, I tried to scratch the paint off with my fingernail and it is impossible to do, no even a mark. If you let RB dry on your skin, it is hard to come off. I had a speck of RB on the tip of my index finger and it stayed there for 3 days. If it got on some other places where skin is not often streched or exercised, it will prolly stick for weeks.
  4. Detail about the kit please! What's torque steer?
  5. I am looking for an engine to do experiments on. I am looking for a cheap/small piston engine, doesn't have to be a car engine but would prefer 4-stroke engine over 2-stroke. Will prefer gasoline engine(not diesel or propane) as well. Don't care about number of cylinders. The engine will not go into a car but will be bolted to a cradle of sorts and secured to the ground(or to a table if small enough.) What choices are out there? Thanks in advance.
  6. Swap in a V8 or go with a L28ET (turbo engine, it bolts right in since it's a "L" series engine) It takes a lot of automotive know-how to increase the power of the L engine by 2~3 fold, especially with the turbo swap. V8 is easier but it's not a bolt on. If you want to go with V8, search for JTR (jags that run, V8 conversion kit and manual) and search in V8 forums, as well as picking up some generic V8 performance books. Some V8 guys here are just too damn fast. (dr_hunt is one of them) If you want to go with L28ET, search in "Engine component forum---Turbo section" There are a lot of guys that run L28ET and makes 300~400 HP.
  7. Then you gotta stop skipping your science classes. You can't burn water, nor can you make deuterium or tritium with water and heat.
  8. You are joking right?
  9. If you use enough hardner like instruction said, it will be fine. Extra hardener will actually slow down the curing. If some area takes a long time to cure, that means the epoxy wasn't mixed into even consistency.
  10. BAH! I can totally pwn that guy.
  11. Quench... If the piston(assum it is not dished) is very close(1mm) to the flat pad in the combustion chamber at TDC, the air/fuel mix is squished into the flame to produce a faster burn. It helps increase hp and reduce detonation. But on a L series head, the quench pad is not that big so not as effective as in a SBC that has a bigger quench pad.
  12. From the list of parts, looks like it's not getting a lot of quench?
  13. The one at the center of the pulley? They are VERY tight. Never done a maxima before but when I remove that bolt from my L28ET, I had to use a wrench that has an extending handle(to 2 ft.), the handle will bend into an arc when so much torque is used that the torque is absorbed by the bending. I had to slip a 4 ft. long square tubing over the wrench handle to prevent it from bending and finally loosen the bolt. Oh the one on my L28et is regular direction, loose = ccw.
  14. I believe so. The auto maintenance shop that service my daily driver says sometimes the oxygen sensor gets dirty and they scrub it clean instead of wasting customer's money to get a new one.
  15. Interesting. A question though, if their head retain the 2-valve-per-cylinder design, what's the benefit of SOHC? eliminate pushrod bending?
  16. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lambda_sensor I just found the good stuff, let's all sit down and read it together...
  17. Yeah sometimes I go overboard. No hard feelings
  18. Right now I am too depressed over the Pinks loss.
  19. The guy who made the model is Jason Paruta, he has a Z website http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/
  20. Very nice, flaming me at the same time saying you are not flaming. Everything that is helpful has been said before you came along, so there is no need to insist there is a problem and trying to save the day. If you had read what Ed said, you would know his engine runs cool AT SPEED, and you wouldn't even need to ask about the puller/pusher fan question in the first place. I read everyone's comment thus far, so I know for a fact that there is no real heating problem, johnc said not to sweat it. I said if there is no problem, there is no need to fix it. Beside, a warmed up engine runs at 210 degree F anyway(at least my daily driver does), if he used 50/50 instead of 60/40, the coolant temperature will be down to normal range. As long as there is no detonation or overheating, a hotter engine(with hotter coolant circulating inside) is more efficient. Ed, If you want to know the difference between F54 head gasket and regular head gasket, the picture is on page12 of "How to modify..." book.
  21. Don't spend a lot chasing after a good stroke/rod ratio though, the benefit in terms of horsepower is little, usually not noticable until high rpm is reached.
  22. Jay Ingram...the host of Daily Planet on Discovery Channel?
  23. Well look, there is NO PROBLEM with his cooling system in the first place, he said he just don't like the idea of the engine running at 232 degrees before shut down. I already told him if the engine is not causing any trouble then there is nothing to worry about. If he wants to see the coolant at a lower temperature then fine, I told him 50/50 mix will raise to a lower temperature than a 60/40 mix given the same heat or the same running condition. Do you know why the coolant manufacturer put a lable on their coolant and specifically advise NOT to go over 70/30 mix? Because the engine will run too hot with the stock driven water pump. I don't even say anything without going thru a bit of research and then some guy who don't even read posts just blurp out "oh it's not going to work" and that really pisses me off.
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