A. G. Olphart

Mike: I sent you a PM with this question, then it occurred to me that I may not be the only one wanting to donate by check or money order. To whom, and at what address should old fashioned donations be sent? <>

Here's the link for you model lovers... http://www.franklinmint.com/product1.aspx?SID=2&Product_ID=8667 <>

My wife has been known to tell me that I need help... Wonder what she meant? Not certain that the good people/bad people ratio is hugely different form tiny town to Albuquerque, but the odds of knowing who the baddies are improves as town size shrinks. <>

Had fun, passed a car, and made it home unscathed. A true Z day... <>

I've had memory fail and cause random problems... Memcheck 86+ found it. Free replacement from Crucial, and back on line. A tech friend later told me that some apparent memory problems are caused by poor/corroding socket connections. He can sometimes resolve a problem by pulling the memory and cleaning its' connector pads. <>

BJ, the 'several rear hatches' approach sounds good. Four bolts per change seems simpler than fitting spoilers while on the clock. Demo dog should generate significant interest here on HybidZ... I'd like to see a stock configuration baseline run, but if fitting a front spoiler is too time intensive, might that have to be a given? How are the numbers derived? Do the four mounting posts register force in all directions, providing directly comparable info for a set/given wind speed? As I won't have to ship a deck lid, I may be able to kick in a bit more, but I'm not a major player. <>

Do you know how "built" you want/need it to be? If not, there is a lot of reading material here: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/transmission-talk/ If you already know what you want, they also have a listing of reputable builders. Edit: This list is in the thread "I want everybody to know EXACTLY who is who" A book on DIY High Performance rebuilds as well as some excellent upgraded transmissions is avalable here: http://www.CKPerformance.com A good 200R4 won't come at fire sale prices, and a cheap one is only the down payment. (I like the things, but stock, they had a few problems). <>

Rear spoilers seem to be a crutch to try and kill the Z's nice wing shaped roof and deck line... Might it not be more effective to use a variant of the Pantera style deck lid? This one has angled sides: http://album.hybridz.org/data/502/ZcarPanteraHatchDimensions.jpg I've been considering vertical sides and a slight (5 or 6 degree?) downward slope towards the rear, everything edged by the hatch glass opening. Perhaps a 1 inch mini spoiler at the top? Would a regular a spoiler then help join turbulent deck lid air with the turbulent air behind the car? These are questions I would like to see answered in the wind tunnel. I'm curious about $100 worth. (Hopefully someone has a parts car deck lid or two to play with back East, as shipping oversized items is pricey). <>

A hatch modified like this, perhaps mocked up with a plywood "window", would be a great addition to the proposed wind tunnel tests mentioned elsewhere. (Can't find the thread at the moment). I've been considering a Pantera like modification for some time in hopes that it would help drag/mileage. I know HybridZ isn't about mileage, but I want it all. <>

If the offer is open to others, I'd be interested in seeing them. I recently put the Wix eqivalent of a Fram PH-8 (Wix 51515???) on my wife's old Chrysler; for the first few days we thought we had found filter heaven: the oil pressure came up immediately each time the engine was fired. Sadly, after about a week everything went back to normal. Does the anti drain back valve not deal well with higher pressures? IIRC something looked like orange silicone, but I really wasn't paying a lot of attention. <>

This is the one I went for after being zapped by some brand X helmet inserts at a welding show: http://www.jacksonproducts.com/prodGroup.aspx?brandCode=JP&catId=1&subCatId=29&pgId=114 With 4 sensors, it is hard for a tube or other obstruction ot hide them all (hasn't happened yet). Not cheap, but it has a larger viewing area than most, and it is quick. <>

Many thanks! I'll not be anywhere near LSR territory, but enjoy the tech. John, having seen the Rusty Old Datsun at thunder hill, had I a MEMORY :confused:, your clarification would not have been needed. Thanks for the picture: I (and certainly others as well) will make good use of it. <>

John... Earlier in this old thread, you referred to a Car and Driver test indicating that a 7" tall rear spoiler set at 30 degrees was optimal for a 73Z. Do you know how the measurements were referenced? Did they mean 30 degrees from vertical or from horizontal? The short BRE style lends credence to 30 from vertical, but the later (Bob Sharpe?) 280zx's had a longer spoiler much more horizontally oriented. Even the 7" measurement seems open to interpretation... vertical 7", or 7" along the plane of the spoiler? Probably not all that critical. Wondering what I should build for my highway 240 for a little more stability and that 1.3mpg. <>

Your autozone guys theory might have some relevance in circle track racing, where engine output is near max all the time (fairly stable heat load), but sounds like BS for a street car. Engines like to be at 180 up for maximum life, and thermostats can bring you there quick, then hold a temp. Not all thermostats are created equal; the pressure balanced type works more consistently, especially with a high flow water pump (which can make it hard for some cheaper t-stats to open). Good cooling at speed, poor cooling in town/stop and go is an indication of insufficient air flow at low speed. Perhaps a better electric fan, and/or modifications to allow air out of the engine compartment when putzing around. <>

How much of the work are you, or preferably, you and your wife/significant other willing to do? (A home building project puts an enormous strain on a relationship, so you need to be clear on your spouse/significant other's level of interest and involvement). The more you are able to do, the more you save. This sort of book might help: http://www.amazon.com/Habitat-Humanity-How-Build-House/dp/1561585327/sr=8-1/qid=1160670269/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-4444780-6136857?ie=UTF8 I've been there, and am sort of still there. My biggest hassle was the county building department: here they like to have a project finished in 6 months, and I've built my place weekends over a number of years, paying out of pocket as I went along. This required that I keep getting extensions on my permit, and they kept getting harder to obtain. Finally, they told me get it done, or buy a new permit and meet all the latest codes (the killer being stiffened energy codes, title 24 in CA talk). County rules when I began only required a person to show progress to get an extension; that was queered by a real live contractor who set up the framing for a home in an upscale area, then ran off to the bay area to make money during the housing boom. (Those neighbors had pull). Long story short, aside from the concrete slab and insulation (contractors could do it cheaper than I could buy the insulation), I've done it all. I finally got the county to list their minimum requirements to sign the place off, and met them. I am still taping sheet rock (about the nastiest/slowest job I've found for a non professional). If the PO's foundation is actually in place, how badly do you hate their plans? It'll cost just to get it broken up. You will need a well no matter what, so can that be sited and drilled early on? If you do a (flexible) plot plan, allowing room for a good sized home, you could build that detached garage/shop (it will NEVER be large enough) while deciding on the house. Can you afford/ is the property close enough that you can continue living where you are while building? If not, a tornado magnet (mobile home/family fight center) may be a short term option. (Remember the relationship stresses)? If you go that way, see if the county will let you put in a large enough septic system to handle the finished house... hopefully they will see the logic in that. People have been known to build a garage (with a bathroom?) and live there temp while the house goes up. Depends on how sticky the county is. (Grumpyvette's shop would be plenty large enough for everyone to have their own area). If you don't have a general contractor buddy to steer you, how does one find the Good subcontractors? I don't know, as I did my own plumbing/ electrical/ HVAC (except the charging). Cupboards and appliances are icing on the cake; just need to plan a space for them. I like hardiboard/Hardiplank, not being a mason. Good luck. <>

In the 200-4R, not wanting to shift until the throttle is lifted is generally caused by a governor spring having been thrown out of place during a burn out. I don't know if it indicates a similar problem in the 700 or not. It might also be the result of someone playing with the valve body/ TV limit valve or spring when installing a shift kit... likely there are additional possible causes beyond my ken. There is NO engine vacuum control of transmission pressures in the 700; that is why the TV cable adjustment is critical. Here is a web site on the TV system; lots of adapters for carburetion changes: http://www.tvmadeez.com/. A too soft shift is more likely to damage a transmission than a shift that is a bit hard. If the clutches engage lazily there may be slippage, which creates heat and burns up friction materials. A quick firm shift limits slippage/heat buildup. Hopefully that is the shift feel you consider 'normal'. <>

Right... If you feel a spring on the other end of the cable, it isn't broken. In the 200-4R the pump can suck air under extremely hard acceleration with normal fluid level, so racers add fluid or go to deeper pans to keep from uncovering the oil pickup, which is the problem. I've no experience with the 700, but haven't heard of a shift problem caused by too much fluid. Holding longer in first and second under heavy throttle is normal. The TV cable does this, raising pressures to help the trans handle the extra torque. (This was the function of the vacuum modulator on earlier trannys). Running with the TV set wrong can fry a 200 really quick... as in one hard run. Shift timing is primarily a valve body function. Due to smog laws and economy considerations, it may not be right for performance use straight out of the factory. (This may be the cause of the trans wanting to go into third and fourth at low road speeds. If so, a good shift reprogramming kit should help). <>

That is odd... my 200-4R book (similar TV setup) suggests rotating the throttle lever by hand, as you have done, to set the cable. Did you notice any change at all in shift quality or the road speed of the shifts when you moved the slider all the way to the rear? If not, the cable may be broken or disconnected in the transmission. On the 200-4R, a break or disconnect results in full TV pressure (like wide open throttle), so you get later, harder, shifts. <>

In the early 60's I spent an afternoon watching the body man at a Chrysler dealership do lead work. He used 50/50 solder, and began by tinning the repair area. He used 50/50 because it may be heated to where it becomes plastic, and can then be pushed around like putty to form as needed. For pushing, he had a batch of different shaped hardwood paddles, which he dipped (wiped across) a loaf pan of bees wax before use. IIRC, he was using an oxy-acetylene torch set so rich it threw carbon. Before dipping a paddle, he melted the surface of the bees wax with the torch. Sorry I can't provide more detail, but it has been a while. <>

Although John is undoubtedly right in his assessment, if you don't have the book yet, perhaps this web site will help: http://www.biopatent.com/struts.html Your Z does have a non stock rear brake upgrade. Have you checked the second sticky above to see if you can recognize the parts? If the stickies and searching doesn't do it, pictures may allow one of our members to ID the setup. (I try to keep a logbook of modifications for future repairs; otherwise, how does a person even buy pads?). <>

Law says you live and work here, you gotta register it here. Not sure of the exact time, but 30 days sounds about right. I think you are in trouble with the 81. CA law does provide for engine swaps, but the new engine has to have all the stuff on it to be smog legal (as in the original vehicle). The turbos and stand alone system would need to have documentation of executive exemptions since the donor car didn't have them from the factory. (Not even certain that would work when initially getting a swap approved). <>

Zfury, I'm afraid that I must take exception to this post. Four Webers is one venturi per cylinder: Standard procedure for those carbs, and they are famous for doing what they do, very well. The old log manifold was built for racing. If you put it on a stock 331 in your great grandmother's 53 Chrysler, yes, it would be a bear to drive. Six Stromberg 97s (155cfm each- don't know if that is at 1 1/2 or 3 inches, found it here: http://www.vintagespeed.com/newprod.htm) on the logs would provide 930cfm. That isn't out of line for an all out engine of about 400 cubic inches. Think smoothed rocker arms with mouse trap springs, rev kits, and a main bearing girdle on a 392 hemi and you will begin to get the idea. I know Grumpyvette's credentials... I guess that I can accept you as "BAD". Nealio- With 18 degrees initial, what is your total mechanical advance? With loud mufflers at high speed, you might not hear some very expensive warning signals (around 34-36 degrees total is generally good for an early SBC). The quadrajets are great carbs when set up right, good throttle response, mileage and power. A book I've seen recommended http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0895863014/ref=sib_dp_pt/102-4342387-3648144#reader-link Is it possible that someone put a cheapo rebuild kit in your carb??? If the float/needle valve is small (happens in Holleys with two of them) that would starve the engine at high RPM. BTW: I have no credentials:twisted: . Edit note: I do actually know the difference between four and six. <>

A Datsun shaped Z on the hat would be great (and large enough to be easily seen). <>

You Are 72% Cynical You're a full blown cynic... and probably even skeptical of these results. You have your optimistic moments, but most likely you keep them to yourself. How Cynical Are You? http://www.blogthings.com/howcynicalareyouquiz/ <>