SUNNY Z

Those show 30# /ea ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUSPA-C16-13313-12-30LB-GAS-PROP-STRUT-SHOCK-/230380316352 I hope to play with this some tonight.

Put a couple supports in last night. Probably not the 100% best placement, but its about as far forward as I could carry them without a slight bend in the tube. Either way, it should be a good improvement.

Those are C5 exhaust manifolds. Its an LS1, 99-04. Can't tell if theres an EGR port on the top of the intake or not. If so, its an LS1 intake, meaning that its Pre-2001. I'd guess 853 or 241 heads. Either way, it will be a great motor for a Z! The swap can be done for a reasonable price, but don't get carried away with the "while I'm in there" stuff...... ask me how I know.

Engine is in the JCI location. It could go back another inch or so, but that would eliminate the possibility of taking the bellhousing off the engine, with the clutch on. Thinking of clutch change in the future, without pulling the engine. I'll post plenty of pictures once stuff starts going back in. There isn't anything on the passengers side other than those two tabs.... yet at least. I agree its thin (vertically), but I am keeping that area open for fuel line routing. I'll do something to beef up that area, I'm just not sure what yet.

Its pretty serviceable actually. Thats why I'm going through the trouble of bulkheads, rather than just blowing a hole an using a grommet. Everything will be bolted down too, so it won't squirm when you put a wrench on it.

Yep, my Z had this, and I'm pretty sure I added to it. Good reminder though!

Finished up my upper intercooler mount / beauty piece That a friend bent up. Brake line simplification: Line lock, proportioning valve, and bulkhead fittings to get the lines out of the engine bay. Another angle. Still a few lines to make, but I'm waiting on my new close radius bender to show up.

Fe = Shock weight needed (total for both) Fl= Hood weight (42#) Dl= Length of the hood De= Distance from fulcrum (hinge) to point of load Fe=(42#)(4')(.5') ....... Roughly So Fe= 84# , making each shock a 40#. I might be way off base, but thats what physics says!

Using the weight, the length, and the fulcrum point, you can pretty solidly make a calculation. Its just a lever. a Third order lever in this case.

Well you know, you don't HAVE to use AN fittings. I could have used a $6 distribution block from harbor freight and rubber hose. I just hate leaks, and prefer to do things the right way if I can afford it. I'm sure the Holley pump will do you well.

What does this have to do with anything i've asked? Please at least give specific models with pictures.

I'm going off real-world experience. Several of my personal friends have run out of pump (with twins) in the 750WHP range on E85. You have to take into account the additional volume of fuel needed to produce this power, vs pump or race gas. I don't want to have issues with it, and have planned my system to be overkill as such. No issues with E85 eating pumps to my knowlege. Usually heat kills them. I'm sure you've done your research, so your setup should work just fine for you.

Walbro 255's.

This is the one: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-LT1-EFI-Fuel-Line-Fitting-6-AN-Male-to-3-8-Inch-Female-Black,60381.html

WG merge looks good. Will you be using the O2 sensor pictured for a wideband port? You might do some looking around on that. In my research I found that you want your wideband within 18" of the turbo outlet. My system doesn't use O2's at all, only a wideband. Looking good though! Also, I'd HIGHLY recommend changing that fitting on the inlet of your fuel rail. They have ones now that actually thread in from the back side, along with slipping over the factory push on fitting for a positive lock. I had mine come off last year on a WOT pull, and doused the headers (and EVERYTHING in the engine bay) with gas. I'm very lucky it didn't start a fire, or I'd have been sitting on the side of the road watching the car burn. Tip #2 - Carry a fire extinguisher. It would be terrible for anyone to watch their car burn down on a country road or even return road at the track for that matter!!!!

Auto though, right?

Adding one to the list. Corbeau FX1 - ~ 22.5" to bottom of hole. Unfortunately these seats have a large shoulder bolster, and I don't think I could get a door bar past them. I bought a single Corbeau clubman, which I'll update this thread with once it arrives.

Yep, and ebay has them cheap as well too. Ok, Second question: what does a stock 78 hood weigh? 60#?

Got this bad boy on last night. Turned out OK if you take into account I was using the edge of my bench top and a hammer to bend it! haha Didn't weld on as pretty as I'd like - Kinda got in a hurry. It'll clean up and do the job though! Its amazingly more rigid than the pass. side.

From the crypt. I'm looking for the gas shock specs on these things. Lift weight, and compressed / extended length. Shot in the dark, but why not?

I feel like I've read this before........ LS1tech? Either way, Sweet car, can't wait to see the new setup!

Finished crossmember. Finished exhaust All the fuel system stuff should be here tomorrow, so I'll start assembling that. Working on getting all the brake lines out of the engine bay and tucked away, and then I should be able to finish the inner fenders and engine bay.

What seat is this? Cost? Source?

I bought all my stuff from a local shop (WS6Store) because they price matched everything. MaxxMitchell is going to be giving me a hand with the Holley setup. I will, but I'll have some base maps to start with. I'm really excited to start this kind of stuff. Tired of welding lol.

I know holley will automatically trim your fuel via WBO2 and MAP if your blend changes. I went with holley because the interface is super user friendly, and a local guy does a lot of tuning with great success.