SUNNY Z

I guess so. I'm still "dragging knuckles" with my cam-in-block v8 anyway.

I don't quite understand your statement. The Holley stuff (dominator) is capable of single cylinder EGT monitoring. You can then trim fuel by cylinder, since there's 1 injector (or more for the big boys) per cylinder.

I've seen dozens of 4000# cobra tanks at over 1200whp beating on these. I wouldn't be too worried.

I'll take my step backwards and 800 whp.

You tune it via MAP (manifold absolute pressure) up to your max boost level. This makes sure your fueling is correct all the way. Then whatever boost you see, it will have a value for that cell in the table. With a factory PCM, it will do some "learning" but will NOT correct at WOT if you have an issue. That is where the aftermarket ECU's shine. If your fuel pressure drops at WOT, oil pressure goes low, coolant goes hot, boost goes high, etc, ECM's like the Holley will correct at WOT to an extent. Once they cross the parameter you set up ( >15psi MAP, >220* F, <30PSI oil etc), it will shut the car down (like a rev limiter, pulling spark). I'm VERY green on this stuff still. So much to learn.

You're just asking to get stranded.

Few pictures of my 78 with Corbeau FX1 Pro's installed. I had to section the tunnel on the DS, and clearance with a BFH on the pass side. I (heavily) modified some 4th gen F body sliders for the drivers seat, to get some adjustability. I played around with it and mounted it with 15* of layback. A little cozy, but not terrible. Passengers seat outer brackets. I used some pre-cut brackets from speedwaymotors.com and trimmed them to fit. PN 917-20381 For these, I plated the floor with 1/8" plate, and thru bolted. For the inners on the pass side I plated the tunnel and used one speedway bracket (rear) and 2 pieces of 1/8" x 2" angle iron (front) A little tough to see, but I took my e brake handle off, and trimmed the horizontal portion because it would have worn out the seat. I also removed the e brake light switch, but have yet to put the cover back over the tunnel hole. Finished installing. Here is how much room there is from the shoulder bolster to door cards. Doors don't hit them at all! The seats sit directly over the new frame rails I installed, and are possibly a little to the inboard of the car off center in the "tub". Still very comfortable to reach all controls.

Few pictures of my 78 with FX1 Pro's installed. I had to section the tunnel on the DS, and clearance with a BFH on the pass side. I (heavily) modified some 4th gen F body sliders for the drivers seat, to get some adjustability. I played around with it and mounted it with 15* of layback. A little cozy, but not terrible. Passengers seat outer brackets. I used some pre-cut brackets from speedwaymotors.com and trimmed them to fit. PN 917-20381 For these, I plated the floor with 1/8" plate, and thru bolted. For the inners on the pass side I plated the tunnel and used one speedway bracket (rear) and 2 pieces of 1/8" x 2" angle iron (front) A little tough to see, but I took my e brake handle off, and trimmed the horizontal portion because it would have worn out the seat. I also removed the e brake light switch, but have yet to put the cover back over the tunnel hole. Finished installing. Here is how much room there is from the shoulder bolster to door cards. Doors don't hit them at all! I will mention that the seats are basically in line with the subframes I installed, and with the front frame rails. Possibly a little to the interior of the car, but still comfortable to reach the steering wheel.

At least put a 4L80 in it. PLEASE don't spend money on a 4L60. Edit: aw hell do whatever you want!

Ah yes. I imagine at 15# you're pushing over 700 to the tires. No wonder your 4elShitt-E took a dump.

Finished mounting the seats last night. Still have to weld the 5th strap tabs to the subframe, but other than that its done! Car is FILTHY! Pass side brackets ... (for the z car crowd)

How much PSI? Your time would be better spent building a TH400 or glide.... just sayin.

GATES Part # 22358 Thats the upper I'm running. Just had to cut to length. Used the same one for my GM van radiator i had with the DS inlet. Lower is some random 1.5" piece I had. Sorry, no pics

Now you're speaking my language! Maybe we can sit down and do some Ishikawa diagrams over a beer! This might help us drive to root cause, showing the need to 5S, and thus increase our MTBF and decrease our MTTR!

Started mounting the passengers seat. I have the plates welded to the floor with bolt holes, so the outside legs are in position. The inside mounts will be a little more tricky. This is about where the shoulder bolster will end up. I'd like to have about 1/2" when its final mounted to keep from wearing it out. Don't mind the baller / badass skull lock pulls. Here are the mounts. I used these brackets from speedway motors ($5 ea), with a reducer nylon bushing from 1/2" to 3/8" which is pretty close to the 8mm bolts. Also, true to form all the pretty welds will never be seen! Vice grips are temporary. Disappointing, I know.

Might be as simple as a separated wire? Check continuity from your ECU to the injectors. I have no knowledge of the stock wiring, but i've had wires separate before.

Yeah, thats what the Jegs kits are, unfortunately.

Finished the drivers seat mounts last night. I only have about 5" of movement with the sliders due to some mounting limitations, but it will be plenty to accommodate the different driving I do. The shoulder bolsters are pretty large on this seat, but I find it very comfortable. The outer bolster is about 1/2" from the door panel when its shut. Also, there is a surprising amount of room for door bars, traditional, or a horizontal. FWIW, I mounted it with 15 Degrees of layback - just where I found it comfortable.

No sir, I'm just a hobbyist. I'm a manufacturing engineer by day. Think; more, faster, with less. I do appreciate the kind words though. I take a large amount of pride in my work. I would also like to point out to anyone reading this thread that you don't have to be a mechanic or a fabricator to do this stuff. There is so much information out there that you can access, its unreal. Thats one of the reasons I try to be thorough with my write-ups. Paying it forward, ya know?

I hope you have better luck than I did with the front diff mount. I couldn't ever get the mount I built to stop moving. It was making my car have bad wheel hop on street tires, and it actually broke the welded nuts off the body. I'm making a different front mount that will be welded to the tunnel.... Take that, torque! You might have better success, and it would probably work for a lot of people, but If I was going to do a bolt-in again, I'd make some sort of pinion snubber that goes straight up to the body.

Not really THAT cheap. The prices listed are for ERW tubing. If compared to a "Jegs" cage, they're pretty comparable. I just got off the phone with their tech guy, and he was very competent. He was also adamant in saying that their cages fit within 1" of installed body panels. I've seen some pictures of some mustang cages built by these guys, and the quality looks decent.

I was able to get the new timing chain tensioner on, and finish assembly of the engine. I finished the plumbing on the fuel tank and got the pumps grounded. I also had to cut out the floor, and make a new section for seat clearance and weld it in. I was acually surprised with myself how well it came out lol. I'm also about 80% done with the sliders for the drivers seat. I would have finished them, but the gf came outside made me make room in the garage for the cars. .... Something about a "tornado" and "1 inch Hail".

Just called them... NO PICTURES. Come on, how long would it take to hire a highschool kid to snap some pictures and throw them online?! The only thing I did learn is that all the bars are bent within 1" of the all interior panels. Somewhat reassuring, but I want pictures!!!

I'm looking at possibly purchasing one of their pre-bent cages. The price looks pretty fair, @$275 for ERW, $475 for DOM, and $575 for CM http://www.rhodesracecars.com/10-Point-Roll-Cage--Z_p_9659.html I'll be calling them and hopefully getting pictures of the fitment. I'll post up, but if anyone has any please share!!!!