SUNNY Z

Good call.

This site has TONS of helpful info for those wanting to know the differences between the t56's, and also between all of Tremec's other transmissions. http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/tremec_t-56.htm

Those of you that are facebook friends with me have already seen this, but I thought I'd update. Started to shave the rear bumper in a roll pan fashion. Knocked out 3/4 of it yesterday, hope to finish today. There was a skim coat of bondo over most of the stuff that wasn't behind the bumper, so that was a pain to remove. Also, I'm not sure if there's supposed to be supports to keep the "curl" of this panel, but mine wants to straighten out... so i'll be adding supports.

Its a very versatile entry - level machine. Its nice that you can go do small jobs with 110 as well.

As we're all too aware, it can be a PITA to find the right seats for these cars - and I aint talking 'bout flat bread! I've found that one of the most critical dimensions (in my mind) isn't even listed on any seat website. I've found several seats that fit the car, but when I sat in them my shoulders were to the top of the harness cutout, or above! This is a huge NO-NO as the harness could compress your spine in a wreck. For me, the corbeau FX-1 pro seats fit my body perfect, but the damn shoulder bolsters are huge! I've seen someone put these in a 240z i believe, but I'll need space around the shoulders for door bars - so I think they're out. What I need from you: PLEASE post up your seat, and the distance (In Inches) from the bottom of the harness cutout to the top of the seat at the rear. This would be a HUGE help!!!!!

For reference: Heres my drivers side mount. My only question is: As much of the car as you've removed, why not just replace the factory rails with something with a little beef? Just a question.

Its a Miller 211. Its a 110/220V machine, but it welds much better on 220 - so thats where I run it.

I'm going to POR-15 my floors, then a butyl rubber with aluminum backing (hushmat), then the CSF from lobucrod. Should really be nice when done.

Haha, yeah. My car is by no means set up for street racing. Just happens to work. Limited by the driver!

Somewhat. I have to keep looking at the good progress I've made to get motivated to keep on it though. This car will be on the road by May, mark my words.

Thanks... Never fast enough though it seems. Knocked the undercoating off the drivers side inner fender, and started to replace some sheet metal that I'd neglected in the past. Eek.

Finished up my passenger's side.

PHOTO DUMP! Driver's side complete Again Another shot from the driver's side: Just a couple spots to fill! Here's one showing the flange for the inner fender removed. Floor pan in, starting on firewall. From the inner fender Floor pan and upper section in: Using my sheet metal "brake" aka a line and a hammer! lol Bottom section in: From the bottom before welding Burned in Pass. rail Driver. Small amount of work to do on the floor pan where someone "clearanced" it.... Grrr New Inner fender support / firewall tie- in From the top! Battery tray out and new metal in. Not sure if i'm going to put the battery back in there or relocate it. Inner fender finished And look what showed up.

Yeah, I just hate the "scabbed" look. I'll probably do this for the remainder though. So damn tedious the other way. Seam sealer FTW! haha

Mmmm. Boost.

UGH gaining a whole new hate / appreciation for sheet metal work. I worked on the drivers floor pan for about 5 hours yesterday, and I'm 95% done. Removed the factory seat supports, stitched the floor to the rail all the way, and cut out the drain plug holes and welded in metal patches. Hope to finish the driver's side and get a good start on the pass. side tonight.

Fixed it

No, and no.

Driver's rail in. Still need to finish some welding, and attach the floor to the rail.

Good to see progress on this. I saw it over on LS1tech. Love the cage.

Pictures would help this, but I'd sooner start over than try to repair if the rust is bad.

Didn't quite get everything done I'd hoped. Life gets in the way, ya know? Here's the driver's side frame rail before I removed it. Not nearly as bad as the other one, but still needs upgraded Shot of the driver's rail removed, looking to the passenger's side Here is how I drew the cut line.... First cut: Made a second cut 1/2" inboard to give me an edge to weld. Used a hammer and dolly to flatten out the trans tunnel side and made a few relief cuts. You can see where I peeled back the floor at the tie-in point. Hope to bend that back down and close the floor when done. Test fit RUST cut out..... Battery tray and other rust removed. Looking a little bare

Nothing other than the crossover at the moment. Turbo weighs in at 17#, so not much of a big boy. I might get frisky and make a brace, but there's been much success in the industry with larger turbos mounted just the same as mine is.

I've had bolts in mine for about 10K miles. No problems. I use a nylock nut on mine.... no issues. Quit over-thinking it IMO.

Yeah, unfortunately it suffered from typical Z rust. The cold is nearly gone - thanks for asking. Pretty sure thats all the rust (external) though - at least that I know of.