SUNNY Z

http://www.improvedracing.com/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php This is where i bought all the stuff from as well.

It is .77" shallower. However, it is deeper up front. I might have issues installing it with the motor in the car. Might have to get creative. It fits without the pickup on the engine, but haven't tried with. This is an LS3 pan, so C6 Vette.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=ls1+thermostat+housing

I'm glad you asked this question! Can you post a link to that housing?

I decided to upgrade to an LS3 oil pan to gain some ground clearance, and improved baffling. While I was cleaning the surfaces to install, I noticed that when I put the front cover on the last time (3 years ago) i didn't get it aligned correctly, and there would be uneven torque on the oil pan. SO rather than risk anything with my brand new oil pan, I decided to do the RIGHT thing and re-align the front cover. I started draining the radiator tonight, and will take off the water pump tomorrow. hopefully be able to loosen the front cover and tap it down to where it should be. AGH. On a lighter note, the main shaft for the trans is at the machine shop and should be back soon. The driveshaft and axles are ordered, and I would expect them in the next week or so. Busy busy!

I'd guess about 550 on the spray.

I have a CAD drawing of the ones I had cut for mine.. .but it wasnt thick enough and I had to use a thin washer to space the caliper over. BMW 528i calipers here... so measure and measure again is your best bet.

Haha I wear gloves! I had a little propane heater going most of the day. It keeps it about 50 in there (30's ext.). Its not that bad. This is about the third time i've had one apart, so its getting easier.

In an effort to get rid of the 5/6 gear vibration i've been having, I tore the tranny down today. Not sure if its a good thing, but I had it out of the car and on the bench within 30 minutes, and here in another hour. Going to send the main shaft to texas drivetrain performance to have them re-machine my main shaft where the 5/6 driven gear rides. It is supposed to be an interference fit, but mine comes off by hand. This is supposed to be the source of the pulsing vibration in 5/6 gear that i've been having. For more details, see this thread on ls1tech ----------> http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1360312-project-fix-damn-5th-6th-gear-high-speed-vibration.html

please pm me with what you have, and a price. Thanks Josey

Well i don't hate these...... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58528-wheel-show-post-your-pics-of-you-wheels/?p=1035966

Now dont go bringing logic into this! haha You might be right, but man.... I really like the way the Rota wheels look on the car....

Well I'm doing a lot of upgrades this winter because I kept breaking axle pieces. Here is my dilema: I am trying to use the 32 spline outer CV's from the 300zx TT cars (techno toy tuning backing plates) BUT i can't find a way to do a 4 lug hub with these. The only 4 lug option availible in this style is from the S13 240sx, which is only a 29 spline, and the 5 lug hubs are all scalloped, so they can't just be re-drilled. (see picture) SO I'm left with compromising for a 29 spline CV and 4 lug, Or buying all new wheels in 5 lug. And for those of you that might say 29 spline is overkill... The car makes 450-475 ft/lbs of torque at the tires, and will likely be hit with a 150+ shot of nitrous. Figure on 600-650 lb/ft of torque to the tires. This WILL be launched a LOT on drag slicks. I don't want things to break. OR there is the option of using the 29 spline stuff for now, and upgrading in the future, if i need to. (which will leave me stranded somewhere if one breaks) OR if someone can figure out how to do a 4 lug on the above hub..... NO SPACERS / ADAPTERS.

What did I tell you about not making it all one piece! I'm buying more v bands right now to split mine in half again. Looks great though. What muffler?

bubububububullshit! I've broken one of mine already. Likely from over-torquing it.

If I had it to do over again, I would definitely go this route. I have almost 2K in my tranny, and its only good to about 650 (thats parts alone. did the labor myselft). Plus, the 6060 has triple cone synchros..... Jealous.

Fair enough. I used a similar method to do my dash. Word of wisdom: make sure the foam shell is on the frame when you're making your repairs. I had mine seperate, and when I put it back on the frame, it stressed it. Since, it has cracked in several spots. I would recommend using that filler, but then laying a layer of fiberglass over the top of all of it. I'll probably be doing this at some point in the near future. Happy repairs!

Oh come on. Theres a picture of it right there. ..... I'm sure he did.

Another for Gabe @ T3

Haha. You can buy a pair of complete spindles for like $150. Jussayin.

I think the 29 spline axles will be more than enough to handle anything you or I will throw at it. However, in the case that I do break one, I'll just get a TT 5 lug hub re-drilled for 4, and be on my way. Hmmm... Maybe I should do this in the first place!?

It is the cobra 3.55 gears with the carbon clutch posi. I don't have any pics of that at the moment. I'm pretty sure I moved my diff up about 2". My diff is about 1/4" from the deck floor. My car is pretty low though, so at ride height, my A arms are basically parallel to the ground. I believe the axles will be at a slight up angle to the diff at droop, and should be almost flat at ride height.

So I have the axles and driveshaft ordered. However, the DSS is currently moving locations, and I'm not sure how long it will be until my stuff is done.... I worked on the brakes a little tonight. Since I WILL be utilizing the E brake function from the Z32 rears, I need to be able to mount the backing plates (dust shields) as they have some bracketry required for e brake function. They were kinda bent here and there, and the caliper was not clocked in the right position for what the T3 backing plates allowed, so I took the liberty of downsizing them. Drilled out the 8 spot welds on each one They also appear to need to be on the opposite sides of where they came from..... Next, I took the Z32 5 lug hubs, and dis-assembled them, so i can run the 4 lug hubs from the 240sx ( I needed to do this to use the E-Brake, as there is an alignment hole in them.) To do this, position them in the vice as shown below, and get your BFH. I happened to have a tool from another project that worked out quite nicely for this. Its a piece of aluminum stock, but it was the perfect size. Pound these bad boys out, being careful not to damage the studs (if you care) This is the product once disassembled. Do the same for the 4 lug hubs, then to re-install, just put them on top of the vice studs down, and gently tap the bearings back on. Didn't take a pic of this, but i'm sure you can use your imagination. Basically all thats left is to install the backing plates, bearings, and put the e-brake assemblies back together.

^ Including egos and E-Penises.

Thats what i'm saying. You use a 4 lug hub inside the Z32 wheel bearing. Then you use the rotors/ calipers and e brake assy. The e brake is a shoe and drum style, with the drum being the ID of the rotor....... I'll likely end up using the dust shields from the Z32 stuff, as it has a couple little brackets that will be useful in the ebrake assy. Edit: I just updated my 8.8 thread in this forum with a post regarding just this.