SUNNY Z

FWIW, 98 F-body manifolds, (two passengers side) will fit in the forward position. Might not clear the alt low mount though. For those interested...........

here's a pullout for sale locally http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2200914767.html

here's a pullout for sale locally http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2200914767.html

The angle at which the bleeder screw is, all fluid released, be it in the socket or elsewhere, will go into the bellhousing. Not an issue, but if it bothers, you, lift the back of the car up for 10 minutes or so and let that little bit of fluid drip out. After that, you're set to go!

Little tip for all you DIY'ers out there. :Plastidip does not even out differences in texture, and absorbs into foam dash material. I'll be doing the bed coating way, as i've seen elsewhere. stay posted.

The thought did cross my mind. However, I figure I'll just trim the plasti-dip from the gauge cup area if need be when I install them. HOPEFULLY I won't snag an edge and start the peel. I'm hoping to spray it soon, but as damn cold as it is, and the way this stuff lays out, it needs to be warm. I'm actually gonna do it in my living room...... lol I'll lyk how that turns out.

Oh, what the hell. I've been posting this up in my build thread (LSx), but I thought I'd go ahead and share it. I've been doing the "budget" dash repair. I plan on using a product called "plasti-dip) to topcoat the dash, and then possibly paint it, depending on the final color. Started work on the dash last night. It was ROUGH. Had at least 3 cracks the entire way through, all the way from the windshield to the gauge cups. Here it is after filling the cracks with Great Stuff foam, and trimming them, then prepping and smearing on some 2 part epoxy. Its a work in progress. 1st coat sanded After the 2nd coat of epoxy Second coat sanded Third coat Backside Finished the 3rd and final coat. It's sanded and ready for the plasti-dip. Stores were closed by the time I thought to go get some, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow! The finish isn't smooth enough to paint, but it is smooth enough that I think a High Build product (plasti-dip) will hide all the imperfections. At least enough for me to be happy with.

OP, Don't expect to find a deal like this. T56's go for 1200-1700 all day long, and LS1 longblocks with acc usually fetch around 2K. $3500 is reasonable. This guy ^^^ just got a steal. But I can lay testament to that as well, I have $1400 in my engine and tranny. The deals are out there, just look around!

Thanks! Spending a bit more time on the dash today. Here is the progress. 1st coat sanded After the 2nd coat of epoxy Second coat sanded Third coat Backside Finished the 3rd and final coat. It's sanded and ready for the plasti-dip. Stores were closed by the time I thought to go get some, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow!

I sure do. I'll sent you a PM Thanks Dave! I plan on using a "plasti-dip" spray on, and then paint. Should have south of $100 in the whole setup, with materials included

Started work on the dash last night. It was ROUGH. Had at least 3 cracks the entire way through, all the way from the windshield to the gauge cups. Here it is after filling the cracks with Great Stuff foam, and trimming them, then prepping and smearing on some 2 part epoxy. Its a work in progress.

If you could pick it up for under 6, I think you'd be doing alright. As stated though, it all depends on who is paying attention

you people and all your money.......

You do realize that you can easily make more power than that with a simple cam swap in an LS3. Your project though. Do whatever is going to make you happy. Looking forward to seeing this come together.

Its a very feasible possibility. I just don't like to buy things twice. I'll probably just run it N/A for a while, but these headers are a good deal (in my mind). Even if i have to run them flipped. I'd REALLY like to make the passenger's side fit with a forward/down. It will take quite a bit of fabrication, and probably relocation of the mount on the passenger's side, and use a clamshell like the drivers side. Worth the work? Probably not. But I can do the work cheap, where as building a set of headers would be essssspensive. I'd probably do mild steel and have them coated, which I'd be in the 4-500 range at that point. There are still a lot of unknowns right now.

Here is how they look with a truck water pump, in the forward and up position. Drivers side Forward and Down Pass F&D has some interference amount shown here: Most of the interference is with the mount, the tab that faces the frame rail at about a 45* down specifically. Also, there looks to be some interference with the frame rail, but the mount hits first, so its hard to tell how much. I think it would be easily solvable if you didn't mind hacking up the header. I'm gonna remove the mount when I take out the engine, and see how much the frame rail is actually interfering. Hell I might make a different mount for the passenger side if I get to feelin frisky! (that way i could run 2 clamshells, and put poly motor mounts in them ) Here is a 98 F-body pass side mani in the F&D on the DS no SS interference or block / mount at all Here is a picture to show the crazy amount of room under the headers, when they're F&U This is 4" pipe for the record! and I think i could use a 4" oval to get past the starter / frame rail area. I don't know where I'd put my coils if I went this route though........... Good strut tower clearance on the DS F&U Pass side is closer, but I think could work with Hight temp paint Thoughts / opinions?

UPDATE! I have had the tranny mount built for quite a while. I'd say total time it took me about 4 hours, largely in part due to the fact that I was working by myself and also had to take the tranny out and clearance the tunnel before starting to build it. Picked up a set of ebay shorties from a friend, and this is how it looks now. (see ebay header thread for more pics) There is a large possibility that I'll be going turbo in the not so distant future. Since I don't like to buy parts twice, I thought this would be a good opportunity to make a header purchase. I have decided that I'm not gonna use the truck accessories (in the pic). I picked up an ls1 water pump, alternator and bracket, and I had the crank pulley, so I'm just impatiently awaiting their arrival. Being that there has been like 10" of snow the last couple days, I've been severely un-motivated to leave the house. I did go get my dash, and I'll probably be working on that this afternoon. Also, made the executive decision that I'll be using White Autometer gauges. Well I think.......... lol. I'm gonna order those today also, hopefully.

WHY can you only edit posts like once on this site? Here's the pic from post #1, I moved it in my photobucket

I thought about it, but that just seems like an unnecessary amount of piping. As it is, I'd sooner notch the frame rail, and mod the headers, or build a set of headers. Building headers is still a slight possibility at this point, but I'd make them out of mild, since I don't have a TIG welder, and then I'd have to have them coated, so there is a bit of added cost. I'll go look for my camera in just a bit, and post those pictures. I've been severely unmotivated to even leave the house...... 10" of snow will do that to you.

Looking for my damn camera.............

I've been crazy busy working for my dad over the holidays, so there hasn't been much progress on the Z. And with school starting back up today (gheyy/lame) Its going to be slow I have a feeling. I'm still sourcing parts for my accessory drive system, as I decided to use F-body accessories. So I'm looking for: -LS1 alternator (low mount) bracket -LS1 alternator I have for sale: -2 Truck Water Pumps -1 Truck balancer -1 Truck alternator -1 Truck power steering pump. Other than that, I've still been waffling on what gauges to order. I've really been contemplating this decision too much, but if I'm gonna spend the money for autometers, I wanna be sure I'll be happy with them In other news, I have all the stuff to do my dash repair. I did a search on google, and came up with this: http://gtam.silvahalo.com/dashrepair/ So I called up my local Carquest, and they had everything to do it. As of right now, I'm into materials about $70. This includes: 1 can great stuff foam razor blades scuff pads oil and wax remover Evercoat Maxim Fast Urethane adhesive spreader for said adhesive I'll try to take a few pictures while I'm doing it and share

A quick side note - don't buy new bolts for the headers that are not the tapered (stock) style. This is because the tapered end of the bolt actually sits in the drilled hole in the head, past where the threads are cut. A friend ran into some issues with these when he tried to do stainless hardware.

The exact header in the pictures. Shorties. In the up and forward position they fit the best. Down and forward the passenger side has clearance issues (solvable) and in the down and back position,the drivers side has a slight contact area with the steering shaft. Being that I'm leaning toward turbo more and more each day, I'm thinking that i could likely modify them to work in the down and back, and then go up and forward in the future. Time will tell. I have a ton of photos, which I'll upload and post accordingly soon.

Well i picked up a pair of these from a friend locally (what luck!) just to borrow at this point. They fit in 1 position. Its my birthday, so I need to go do some mandatory celebrating. I'll leave you hanging till at least tomorrow, when I'll get some pics, and more info!

What radiator is that Clive?