skirkland1980

Use 10mm bolts instead of 3/8. They are slightly bigger.

It's wired exactly like the diagram? Are you reading any sensors with your laptop connected with tuner studio? Do you get rpm with a stim? You may want to contact diy tech support or open a thread in megasquirt subforum for more help, it request to get this one moved there.

I have an answer for question 5. Driveline service of Atlanta sold me a yoke for $50 and installed and balanced the shaft. It needed a combo U joint. It was just a camaro shaft that was shortened, then the rear joint was the combo joint with the beefed up flange installed. Their number is 678-813-1190 The guy I spoke to was very knowledgeable and had done this several times.

Great! That's exactly what I have ordered.

Do you have more info on your engine like what type of fuel system? Carb, FI, stock or aftermarket ecu?

Thanks for the info on the lash pads. The turbo is a Garrett TC4305 58mm compressor with .82 ar turbine.

Yeah sounds about like the same grind. The lobe center will be maybe a degree or two wider than stock. What lash pad thickness are you using? I need to pick some up soon.

He's regrinding my stock cam. I haven't gotten it back yet. The 272 is advertised duration.

Yeah, I paid $6 for mine.

You were right sunnyZ. I eventually swapped to a 4000 stall and a th350 trans. I like it for the drag strip much better. My 700R4 started making noise in first gear so I borrowed the tranny from my Camaro. I had forgotten how much I liked that tranny now I don't want to give it back to the Camaro lol.

Update: I sent a cam to Delta Camshaft in Tacoma, WA. The price seemed fair and the guy sounded very knowledgeable when I spoke to him. He recommended the 272. He said it will only be .450" lift so I won't need to worry about new springs. I went to the track with the new tranny and I was really impressed with how the car launches now. I feel like my 60' are below 2 seconds. I just need the top-end that I hope the new cam will give me. This car has been a great learning experience. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

So what was your final lash setting?

On your 2.2 board, turn it over so you see the soldered connections of the db37. Solder one end of the 1k resister to pin 28 and the other end to pin 24. On the diagram, tach is pin 24.

Here is the dizzy wiring. It's linked to the link I sent you.

I forgot you were using an MSD box. You still need the pullup resistor from 12v to pin 24. Just jump pins 28 and 24 with a 1/4 watt 1k ohm resistor. Your turbo dizzy will have 12v, signal (to pin 24) and ground. Get all that fixed and you should get an rpm signal. You need that before anything else. Let me know if you still need help after that.

You'll have 3 wires to the dizzy. 12v, ground and signal. The signal wire goes to pin 24 in the megasquirt harness. You should have a 1k 1/4 watt pullup resistor jumped across pin 28 and 24. Set fidle output to spark A. That will be wired to a GM hei module. The hei module will also require a pullup resistor. I don't know all the little details off the top of my head but all that info is here. Also use the link I sent you.

Here is a video.

I drag raced the car tonight. I replaced the cap, rotor, and spark plugs (BPR7ES). I didn't have a feeler gauge so I just closed the gap a little and the problem is gone. I didn't have the MSD box connected so I was able to fire just fine with the MS coil driver. The engine idles a little rough after the plug change now with the tighter gap. Anyone have this problem? Otherwise the car has never run better.

Would you see it while priming the engine with a drill?

Pin 37 sends ground to the fuel pump relay. See if MS is seeing rpm. If ms isn't see rpm it won't switch on the fuel pump.

I'm not that familiar with the stock FI but if the stock ecm has 'flood clear' the 240SX TB may be causing the injectors not to fire. Get some LEDs from radio shack to use as noid lights to see if the injectors are firing.

It sounds like your pump drive may be a tooth off. It all still needs to be installed with the rotor pointing straight ahead with #1 on TDC compression stroke. The objective is to have MS showing the same timing as your timing light shows. See, with a setting of 65 you're actually only at 5 degrees. MS is firing the next cylinder but since it doesn't know where TDC actually is, you're really firing on #1

Are you running cop or wasted spark? What trigger wheel.

Here is a topic a started a long time ago on using the v2.2 board. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94597-megasquirt-280zx/

Are you getting rpm in tuner studio?