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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. Stock parts are available to turbo your car. If you're in a tight budget then fabricating a lot of parts would be more expensive. I also recommend a megasquirt.
  2. You should have switched 12v at coil +. You can disconnect the - and momentarily jump ground to the coil neg. That should produce a spark. If there is not an open circuit between pin 36 and coil neg I would look in ms using tuner studio to see which circuit ms is using a spark output. It's usually D14. Also double check all the grounds to ms. if all is ok I would suspect something inside ms is causing the problem.
  3. You still have control of the boost with the pedal on the right.
  4. You need a voltmeter to check this. Do you have one? I'd start by checking voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be 13.6-14.2 volts.
  5. A shorter stroke would give less exhaust to drive the turbo. I would look for a jdm L20et engine.
  6. I'm in morrow right now about to move to marietta. I made a video on how I checked the rockers. Look up my youtube channel. Skirkland1980. I'm guessing I make close to 400hp.
  7. Sometimes they don't get the two wear surfaces parallel. I checked all 12 of mine with a piece of glass and a dial indicator and found two that were completely horrible. They sent me two rockers no questions asked. Luckily the two they sent me were good.
  8. Stock springs bind over .460" lift. Isky doesn't have a grind that small. You'll have to send it elsewhere to keep it within stock spring limits. A .460" will be an enormous improvement over the stock cam, and much cheaper.
  9. engine idling https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yweinr6CzOU
  10. Back pressure could be what's causing the wastegate to open. Not necessarily the boost controller. If you disconnect the vacuum hose from the wastegate and make a pull, see if the boost stays the same. If so you need more spring pressure on the wastegate.
  11. Yes there is a dowel pin at the top. Yours must not be in the hole.
  12. "Car idled like garbage...which is normal, so that was good" LOL
  13. I was referring to changing your rocker ratio for more lift and duration.
  14. The P90a lash pads are a little thinner. Why not try some with some freshened rockers and maybe a little tighter lash setting? Check wipe pattern and make sure it didn't move too far back on the rocker.
  15. I think I'd try a remote mount shifter unless you can make some spacers and lengthen the rod.
  16. Are you saying the cable is too short? I had to go with an aftermarket shifter for that reason.
  17. I wouldn't think so. If you have the water pump off you may have significant pitting in the front cover. How old is the radiator? It could be clogged with chunks of rust scale. 210 isn't bad but I understand you want it to run cooler.
  18. On my S130 the problem was a burnt connection at the combo switch. If you have a voltmeter. You can see if the problem is supply voltage or a bad ground. If it's a bad ground you will have some voltage on the ground terminal of the light.
  19. I paid $40 for a core to send to delta. It was in good enough condition to run as is. I just installed a cam with a notable amount of overlap. The turbo didn't seem to care at all. In fact to boost went up with no adjustments to the wastegate. Bigger than stock turbo of coarse...
  20. If you have an infrared thermometer you can check for inconsistant temps in the radiator. Also the front cover could have pitting under the water pump.
  21. I've made progress. Apparently xg1 and xg2 need to be jumpered. The only place in the assembly instructions this is mentioned is under hall sensor, optical sensor applications. So I jumpered them and now I'm communicating. New problem, no tach signal: I have tachselect jumpered to vrin and tsel to vrout. I also adjusted the trimpots. Thanks, Shane...
  22. I just did this as well. I used blue loctite on the threads and screwed the timesert ask the way in. I didn't know about blocking any oil passages but it is working well.
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