skirkland1980

Ok. Correct me if I'm wrong. You're converting your NA to turbo? You're using the turbo dizzy? What is the white wire on the MSD connected to? What type of MS are you using? MS1, 2, or 3? What board, 3.0 or 3.57?

I'm using a MS2 v3.57 with a VR distributor. You have to adjust the trim pots to get the signal. The problem with wiring the MSD6 before the MS is it doesn't allow MS to control timing advance/ retard.

I've built similar with a performer RPM intake. It was super strong in a 3rd gen camaro so a 260 should scream. Has the block been decked? I'm unsure what your experience is with SBC but I would check to see how far the pistons are down in the bore at tdc. It can really affect compression ratio.

We could do that or sometime sooner. What part of town are you in?

Well, I now have a brand new cap and rotor for my distributor that doesn't work. Anyone running an MSD box with their turbo dizzy? Mine went bad right after I put the MSD box on.

Well the distributor was bad. I have to completely retune now. Once I do I'll update with the fix.

IT'S FIXED!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!!!! It was the distributor. I converted it over to the VR setup. Got it running right before the rain started. Time to celebrate! Beer on me everyone.....limited time only...today haha

Not yet. I think my distributor is bad now. I'm swapping it out tonight. I'm in stockbridge.

It's grounded to the battery. Low impedance. Thanks

Another update. I removed my harness. I disassembled it completely. Didn't see and problems. I shielded the entire harness with aluminum foil tape and grounded the foil. I messed around with grounds, added some more, made others better. Replaced the connector at the distributor. Had the same results. Clicking fuel pump relay, running super rich. Ended up frying my 3.0 board. I let a hot wire touch the case. I got the 3.57 board out of the other car, swapped CPUs, made the mods for the optical sensor and 12-1 trigger wheel. Having the same problem. As long as the injectors aren't firing I get a smooth rpm signal. I don't know why. I guess I'll try the VR distributor and the harness from the other car. It's getting an engine rebuild right now anyway. Oh yeah, I also put in a brand new distributor cap, rotor and NGK BPR7ES plugs.

Make sure your trigger angle isn't between 20-50. I'm using 60 on one of my cars.

I was doing something similar and it worked for me. I'm in the process of shielding my harness to get rid of the popular 'noise' that everyone with MS experiences. You may want to look into that while you're still building your harness.

Is it in stock? They told me direct ship from the manufacturer.

Any updates?

Good luck finding the rotor. Mine has been on order for a few weeks now. Unless Autozone has one that's been on the shelf a few years.

I think I may have cleaned up the rpm signal. Check out the datalog 'rundata' on my last post.

A few more updates: I removed all my grounds from the battery negative and connected them to the block ground. The ground from the battery to the body looked a little rusty so I made a 10 gauge ground from the engine to the body. I also ran a new ground wire from the fuse/relay box to a body ground with the same 10 gauge wire. Fired the engine and still running way too rich. Then I decided to disconnect the MSD box and run the MS ignition...same problem. I removed the distributor and ran a ground wire from the distributor to the engine and turned the dizzy with a drill ans made a datalog and man is it noisy. I reinstalled the distributor and made a new datalog with the new grounds. It looks about the same as before...noisy. datalogdistout2013-06-26_20.12.43.zip rundata2013-06-26_20.24.52.zip

The white wire from the MSD is for triggering from points or another square wave ground signal. so momentarily touching the white to ground should generate a spark from a coil wired to the MSD box.

Whatever you do don't run a negative cable all the way from the battery to the engine. I mean you can but have a short cable from the battery to the chassis and a short one from the block to the chassis also.

There is a screw on the Turbo rotor buttons. Or maybe a problem with the shaft.

Is the rotor turning while cranking?

It's only the fuel pump relay. Here is a datalog of it running. Before the datalog I added the 470 ohm resistor and the 0.1uF cap for the trigger wheel mod. After the datalog I decided to clean the board with acetone for the first time. I tried running the engine again but had the same results. I'd also like to add, if relevant, that about 2 months ago I had a problem with the TPS. The engine would run fine until I touched the throttle then it would die. I unplugged the TPS and it had been running fine. I did some other checks tonight. I ohmed all 6 injectors, 2.4-2.6 ohms. I checked VAC on one injector connector with the engine running, it was 1.4VAC. Not sure if this helps but thanks again. datalog.zip

Make sure ms is set to 'basic trigger'.

"Wide band LC-1 not working"...join the club. They are junk.

Here is my latest msq file. The car is a 1983 Datsun 280ZX turbo. I'm using an MS2 v3.0. I'm using the 1983 turbo distributor with the diyautotune trigger wheel. I have spark output on D14 through a 330 ohm resistor to Q16. Pin 36 goes to the white wire on an MSD digital 6A box. Ignition and timing seem to be ok. The problem is with the injectors. They are dumping way to much fuel. They are 440cc injectors, pulse width is set at 7.1ms. Fuel pressure is 30psi. If I prime the fuel pump then unplug the fuel pump fuse the engine will run. It runs at 4000 rpm for some reason. I'm wondering where it's getting the air from. If i unplug the injector fuse the engine will die so I know something is up with the signal to the injectors. While it's running my relays that are triggered by MS are clicking constantly. Weird ? shane'scar2013-06-24_11.59.29.zip