skirkland1980

Need more info and punctuation.

If this was my project I would add the crane box later after I knew that MS was set up and running. Just my opinion though. The difference between the vr distributor and optical distributor is the vr distributor sends a sine wave signal output which is a small alternating current. This signal has to be conditioned differently, before input into the ecu, than a optical distributor's signal which is a square wave output. It's a simple on/off signal. If you google search sine wave versus square wave it may help you understand more.

I was able to get stock replacement pistons but that was two years ago. They are made by ITM part number RY6140. I got a good deal from Northern Auto Parts online.

Do you have a video or sound clip of the noise? The L series Datsun naturally has a louder than normal valvetrain noise. The hydraulic lifters are only slightly better. Just out of curiosity, who is your Matco rep?

You can't adjust the valves on a stock 83 turbo head.

Here's some pics of my progress thus far.

Thanks, I'll try the fishing wire trick. Now on to the 'TURBO' emblem? Do I remove it the same way? I'd like to save and reinstall this one. Thanks.

Anyhow. You need the injector cooler to prevent the vapor lock that you are experiencing.

By cutting the fuel pump you made your problem worse. Maintaining pressure in the rail is what you want. The fuel will boil at a higher temp when the pressure is higher, just like your cooling system. Also when you turn off your fuel pump with the engine running you're not completely purging the system of fuel. You're simply going to lean the engine out until it can no longer stay running.

If your turbo has 2 ports with a T to the wastegate actuator you can use just one and plug the other. It should be 1/8" npt available from a hardware store.

Are you using a GM coolant temp sensor? That sensor is made to test a very slowly fluctuating coolant temp. If you notice normal air temp sensor use a fine wire probe which can pick up temp changes quickly. Your sensor is feeling the temp of the manifold (which is heating up from the turbo, cylinder head and exhaust manifold) not the air. The charge pipe would be a better location for the sensor.

You're saying you have a 30 degree increase in ambient with the same temps? Sounds like an improvement.

Ok. I'll use a heat gun and scraper. I guess I will remove them all. I also would like a cleaner look and also ditch the 2 tone. Thanks guys.

I just started the body work on my 280ZX today, fixing the only dent and welding in new metal that has rusted away in some areas. I have a dent behind the right rear wheel. There is a rusty area that was caused by the dent. I need to know the best way to get the trim piece off (pictured). I guess it's glued on? Should I scrape it off or should I apply a solvent? Any ideas? Thanks...

I think it's saying the boot jumper isn't in place.

Use the 240sx tb. It's the only one that will bolt to a stock intake.

As the cam breaks in?

What's your voltage at the starter while cranking? Or the current?

Your temp sensor is picking up heat from the turbo. I have mine mounted right before the tb. Do you have heat shielding under your intake?

You'll need the intake manifold with the throttle body and fuel injectors and a fuel pump such as a GSL392. Megasquirt would be a nice upgrade. You wont need a lot of the little sensors like the AFM.

Ok. How is yours tuned? I'm only making about 2 psi. Could it be my large .82ar turbine housing? All other internals are stock.

I'd like to go if I'm not working.

I've never experienced resets but there is always noise with the sensors and inputs. I'm thinking about trying those mods just to see if it fixes the noise. Both my cars run great though.

Nascar uses flat tappet cams. They use mobil 1 and synergyn oils. Before the R07 engine they built trays to keep the cam submerged in oil. With the proper amount and flow of lube you don't need special oil.