skirkland1980

Look for my thread about "valve lash on any engine" there is a video there with a helpful tip. I would link it but I'm using my cell phone.

Could you explain the problem you're having and one of us can try to help you.

I am getting a misfire under boost like the spark is too weak to keep from blowing out.

I'm not sure which terminal you mean but the left terminal is 0.7mV, middle 12.28V, right 0.2mV.

I use the accel 8.8 wires. You can make them about as long as you want.

Yes. Sugar will gum up the rings and they will stick in the grooves. If some jackass cut the radiator hose they may as well put sugar in the tank.

I'm thinking it's got to be a spark misfire because I'm holding 11.5 afr and it backfires through the exhaust.

I'm getting a misfire at about 5500 rpm under load at 17psi boost. All specs are in my sig. I thought it may be spark blowout so I pulled the spark plugs and rechecked the gap. I have 0.030". Are there other things that could be causing spark blowout or could it be a problem with my ignition system? The plugs are NGK BPR7ES using MS2 V3.0 firing a single coil. Thanks.

Any signs of sugar in the fuel?

It was on with the key on engine off until I made the change in the output port settings.

Thanks for the info guys. My torque converter will not allow more than 2000 rpm during launch. I have retard set at 0 degrees at 1300 rpm and spark cut set to 1800 rpm. I'm still not getting much boost at launch, about 1psi, the same as when not using the launch control. I'd like to be realistic and get 5psi. Any other ideas? Thanks

I just looked at the board. It's wired to R26. If you're looking at the back side of the board with the map sensor on the bottom left, the wire is soldered to the top of R26. Is that the right way?

Spark output A is set to D14. If I'm not mistaken, I wired IGBTIN to R26 with a 330 ohm resistor.

While adding some outputs to my ms2 I discovered that the bip373 was getting hot with the key on engine off. I made sure that the ign output was set to going high inverted. I changed it to normal and had the same problem. I noticed that the D14 led was staying on which likely meant that the coil was trying to power up. I removed the coil fuse and the bip started cooling down. So I discovered a fix. I went into output port settings and set 'injection led' to rpm > 100 and that's it. The bip373 stays cool with the key on, engine off.

From my experience it just takes a long time to prime. I spun the engine with the starter with no spark pugs. I rebuilt mine a few years ago and recently pulled the head and oil pan and inspected the bearings. They still looked new. However, modifying an oil pump shaft to drive to pump with a drill would be better. I know some cams can become damaged before the engine ever starts. Mine did not though.

The down pipe isn't that hard to do. At least for me since I used mild steel pipe. You can get the stuff you need from Summit racing, a 90 degree mandrel bend and the v-band clamp kit. You can also get an O2 sensor bung. Let me know if you need help or want to stop by and see mine to get some ideas. I would recommend doing a complete exhaust system at the same time. I spent about $300 on my complete exhaust system (all mandrel bends).

I finally finished my cable bracket. It's not pretty but it's working. I just shot a quick cell phone video. Thanks for watching.

I wouldn't worry if the boost is reaching the desired pressure. My stock turbo was loud. It made boost just fine. I removed it and it had a lot of play in the shaft. I replaced it with a new, bigger turbo which is more quiet. Based on this I'm thinking a louder turbo may be a bad thing. If the turbo is too small it will need to spin faster to make boost. If it's worn it will need to spin even faster (more noise).

I'd say the rockers are too soft. Are they new or resurfaced?

Corkey Bell's book says to position the injector at the point of maximum velocity which would be at the intake valve in a superior designed intake manifold. I.E a manifold that has a perfect funnel shape from the runner entry to the valve.

BRAAP...

Do you think odd-fire engine would be any different? I'm thinking so but I've never worked on any.

Oh yes. I remember seeing Pauls video on youtube.

That's quite amazing.

I got one you can try. I'm near Atlanta.