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The speedo gear are larger in the SX box. Count the teeth of both gears. If they are the same count you're in business. If not, you should be able to get the required gear from Nissan for the later box. Two are immediately listed for the 240SX box 32743-35F20 (20 tooth) and 32743-35F21 (21 tooth). There may be others too.

Swapping all of the clutch related parts should be a no-brainer and work fine. As for driveshafts, I think you'll have to modify yours to fit. Does your 4 speed have a slip yoke for the output or a flange? You can measure the lengths of your transmissions to determine if there is a difference. Any difference will translate to modding the DS.

I'm looking at two reasonable options at this time. One is a possible bearing with a larger ID but retaining the original OD. The only one available has a width nestled between the narrower inner bearing and wider outer bearing. I'm waiting to get static and dynamic load ratings for this bearing compared to the stock RW116 and RW117. If it works, it allows for a axle shaft in the 1.4" diameter range. The second option is using an existing Spicer 28 involuted spline with a 1.20" ID. That would allow for more meat where the stock axles are breaking. The third option is a custom companion flange with a 1.250" to match the stock axle diameter. The cost of turning and broaching that flange would be up there with the axle though. A matched set of custom axles and flanges could possibly run in the range of $1000. My manufacturer is waiting for me to supply definate dimensions before producing the first axles. I will need someone to torture test these as my 240Z doesn't produce to HP/TQ to trash an axle. Any takers in Virginia when that time comes? One more bit of interest, it was explained to me that a billet axle has controlled grain structure but does not necessarily make for a stronger part. If the stresses go across that grain pattern then it may be no stronger than a forged part. That could explain, in part, why Ross' axle snapped.

Okay, I have searched and read numerous posts. I've been at it so long my torn rotator cuff is killing me! I want to know what the dimensions are for offsetting the rotor on a Z31 hub to use on the S30 front strut, stock rotor and calipers. How about the the Z31 rotor and caliper? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

If you wanted to 'set' them just use a center punch and displace the metal between the threads. It will upset the threads lightly and prevent movement of the screw.

About 20% of the 280Zx produced were turbos. Most of these appear to have been automatics. Converting is not a huge undertaking if you are mechanically inclined. Cost is relative to how much wrenching you have to pay for vs what you can do and the needed parts, of course. I'd look for a 5 speed parts car to strip for parts as it will probably be less expensive in the long run and you'll have all of the parts plus a visual reference. Converting to turbo is another big and costly step. If it were me (and I've owned/built about 50 cars over the years) I'd look for a good 5 speed turbo'd car to buy outright. They are out there although low in numbers. The reason I say this is the time and expense to build what you want will in all likelihood exceed what a whole good car would cost you. Been there and done that. Only a true hybrid is worth the trouble and expense IMHO.

I spoke at length with one of the engineers this morning. He pointed out the higher spline count does nothing for strength. More finer splines help reduce splines being sheared off. That is not the problem folks here are experiencing. It is girth of the shaft that is the culprit. I'm investigating to see if there is a bearing with a larger ID to allow for a larger shaft diameter and still provide adequate load properties. In the meantime, a slightly larger spline diameter can be made (1.20" vs 1.095"). This is a big jump (.105") in diameter and should greatly reduce shearing. The Ford 8.8 uses a pinion companion flange with a 1.20" ID and a 30 spline count from what I read. The flange could be welded/drilled the accommodate any pattern. They're making a set of axles for me to test. I will likely need a test volunteer as I haven't the power to break them or the desire to tax my 240Z like that.

Hit the 4x4 forums like pirate4x4. There are a multitude of parts suppliers (spidertrax, blue torch fab, etc.) out there offering a variety of components, bushes, and custom pieces. At a glance, that looks like a poly body bushing from a lift kit.

I'm investigating it. The stub axle and flange went out Friday. I included drawings of a straight shaft. There's plenty of room. The oil seal will need to be replaced with a larger ID because the mating flange will need to big bigger too. These flanges may have to be machined at one shop and sent out for internal splining. I'm guess that a round flange could be used then drilled to the required CV or U-joint flange bolt pattern. As with anything the price will go steadily upwards. I'll have to wait for the manufacturer to call me with specifications.

I'm sending off several drawings including the far left stub axle. I think necking down the area between bearing seats would not affect strength but ease outer bearing installation. I'm also looking a a finer spline count on the stock diameter as well as somewhere inbetween. The manufacturer will be able to provide valuable input on the subject of size vs strength. If the flange can be produced it's then an issue of different bolt patterns to acommodate the axle shaft joint or CV used. We'll see how things progress.

The best approach is to install two or three long bolts with the heads cut off. These act as guides allowing you to focus on alignment and not kill yourself trying to hold the transmission up. Slight rotation of the transmission with the driveshaft or a spare yoke will aid in lining up the splines. Put a little lube on the alignment dowels too. Once installed put a couple of proper bolts in and pull the long bolts out. Save them for the next time.

I'm hearing you. My first interest was in the 3/4" offset to match my Z31 hubs. I prefer to run a matching set of tires/wheels. I'm sending a stub axle off today for review. The issue of producing the mating flange is the bigger issue. Regarding the 40 spline. Are you looking for a larger girth as well or simply a 40 spline count on the existing stub diameter? I'll need to investigate oil seals to find a thinner piece allowing the use of a stock S30 strut housing. I looked at the flange this morning as I packed it up. I don't think the original flange is not thick enough to support a larger shaft diameter. I'll get into the seal cross reference book shortly.

Differences are the option of offset. As noted, the positive offset will match the Z31 front hubs so matching wheels can be run to allow for tire rotation, if desired. Higher spline counts are doable. I'll see if they can provide a matching flange to allow for this to make if viable. Actually, I was over at MM and looking for these axles but never saw them. That is why I persued this option.

To date, no one offers a new set of S30 rear stub axles. I am speaking with a major axle manufacturer about reproducing the S30 280Z 27 spline stub axles. These can be machined to match the stock stub axle or positive offset to match the Z31 front hubs. They can be drilled either 4 or 5 hole. The flange face will be round not squared off. The splines are broached into the axle not rolled as original. That means the splines will be cut slightly into the bearing seat. This is not a issue of strength and should actually be stronger. The axles will be made from a higher quality alloy steel than originals. The threading will need to be done at another machine shop. I've run custom axles from this company in my Land Rover for years. There has never been a failure despite putting the 4x4 through hellish offroad conditions. Cost for a pair of axles will be in the $500 range. I'm having a set made for me regardless. My question to you is there any real interest in these? If so, let me know. Maybe we can get the price down a little if the numbers are right.

Keep the original engine on a pallet in the garage. You'll be much happier with the performance of the displacement increase.

Does anyone have dimensional drawings for the S30 stub axle? These should include all measurements out to the wheel mounting surface.

Got a picture of these installed on your car? I had a set and sold them because they didn't fit well and looked like it.

The S13 (240SX) transmission is very stout for most applications. The touted T5 you speak of was in it's infancy in 1983. It is over-rated most likely because the later T5's and WC T5's are sought after transmissions for performance application. We're talking apples and oranges here. The early T5 is not a favorable box. If you're in the market to do a swap then follow 1fastz's or my lead and choose a better transmission than the early BW T5. I'm building a S13 5 speed for my 3.0 SC stroker project. You'll have to get the early 5 speed bellhousing modified ( to accept the larger KA countershaft front bearing, 1/2 shifter rod OD, and clearance for the CS front gear) at a local machine shop but it's a reasonable and doable undertaking. Do a search for the 240SX transmission swap.

You'll need to ensure the 1/4" spacer (used with the auto flexplate) is removed at the crankshaft where the manual flywheel will mount. You'll also need to ensure there's a bushing installed in the crankshaft end for the nose of the first motion shaft of the tranny. For what it's worth, the early T5 used is not much stronger than the early 5 speed. It is the later WC T5's where they start to show substance.

Are yours lubricated as this can be a problem. Binding and/or excessive wear doesn't allow the hinge to operate properly. I had this problem with worn out hood hinges. My solution was finding a later set of hinges in good condition and having them replated. This difference is astounding. My hood opens and closes with one hand now and alignment is dead on.

To dress the crank snout you'll be better off pulling the timing cover. Don't be concerned over the materials in Lab Metal. The stuff is about a tough as any epoxy type product comes. It is far superior to JB. That being said, there is no guarantee that this fix will hold up. It is quicker and easier than pulling down the engine and replacing the crank. I'm betting the bolt came loose allowing the hub to walk off the snout causing the damage we're seeing. My point is that once the keyway is dressed, lab metal'd, and hub installed there's no where for the epoxy to push out to. Excessive crank vibration can realistically cause the epoxy to be pounded into powder and bringing you right back to this point. Keep an eye on it including bolt torque. I'd spot paint the bolt head/washer/hub to have a visual if things start coming apart. Terry's option using a new key is a possibility too.

I'd use lab metal for the repair. It can be found at most welding supply shops. It is only the the hub will prevent that repair from being displaced that the repair should hold. I've personally done this on a 327 SBC that ran over 10,000 hard miles prior to being sold. It never showed signs of failure.

I'll have to go by Abacus Racing to shot a photo. The block looks identical at first glance. The bores are smaller but spaced the same as the L28 block. It is about 20mm taller. There are two cast-in points for the oil pickup tube. one or the other is drilled through depending on the oil pan used. There are a couple of other minor differences (oil dipstick tube location, etc.).

I've always incorporated a simple kick-up solenoid from a GM product. It operates on 12V (tied into the compressor 12V source). You can adjust the arm to set the idle you want. Obviously, you'll need to look at several of these and probably fab up a bracket too.

A vacuum can works well too. I ran one on my 73 Z28 pulling 8 inches at 1200 rpms. It made the car streetable...well, at least the power brakes worked.